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Riu

Practically Family
Messages
703
Location
UK
I agree that Brown is CXL is unique, but they offer many other interesting tannages too. Here is Horween black Roadmaster:
View attachment 305269

That looks interesting indeed. I found a seller in UK that's got Horween leather and I saw some nice leathers.

Screenshot 2021-01-29 at 18.38.14.png
 

dudewuttheheck

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,403
Maybe it's a cultural thing but Shinki - at least some that I've seen (J-24 and a couple of A-2's) but the photos give off the same impression - while perfectly nice still looks pretty much as most European tanned mainstream leather of the 60's and the 70's, especially the stuff that came outta Italy. A lot of great leather jackets here were made from what could've easily been variations of Shinki or Vicenza or whatever of the sort. Or in other words, it's not that special if you're used to it.

Horween CXL is. It's unlike anything that I've seen or handled prior to my first Horween jacket and yeah, to me, Shinki is just a bit less impressive. Every characteristic that it has is very slightly toned down compared to Horween's CXL. The gradient effect in brown isn't as pronounced, the color is less saturated and frantic and more... Well, not flat but more straight, to the point. Brown is brown while on CXL brown will be three colors at once. It's weird, which is what I prefer, personally. :)
What I find interesting is the comparison of Shinki and Vicenza. Vicenza is nothing like Shinki to me. It isn't in the same league as Shinki in my opinion- not even close. I don't think CXL is at all either. However, CXL is less of a direct comparison.

Shinki also varies a lot more as mentioned in another thread.

That's the fun thing about this place- we have different opinions. I REALLY dislike CXL so you will never convince me that it's all that great.
 

Mich486

One Too Many
Messages
1,690
CXL has its own distinctive look. I personally think it’s more of a leather accessory type leather, belts, wallets etc.

There are some beautiful Horween leathers that imho work much better for jackets. Bit of a shame is all about CXL when it comes to Horween but probably the main reason is its uniqueness and the fact that Aero started using it.
 

Seb Lucas

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,562
Location
Australia
That's the fun thing about this place- we have different opinions. I REALLY dislike CXL so you will never convince me that it's all that great.

It's true. I personally aren't preoccupied with how a leather looks - as long as it's a darker brown I'm ok with it. My main concern is if it too heavy and how will it wear. Most leathers are pretty much interchangeable as far as I'm concerned, not that they look alike, it's just that I don't particularly care :D
 

dudewuttheheck

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,403
It's true. I personally aren't preoccupied with how a leather looks - as long as it's a darker brown I'm ok with it. My main concern is if it too heavy and how will it wear. Most leathers are pretty much interchangeable as far as I'm concerned, not that they look alike, it's just that I don't particularly care :D

That's totally fair! I'm like that a bit more with my denim. I do care about it for sure, but I care more about the cut/pattern, details, and the way they are made more than the fabric. For example, I don't like sanforized denim and I'm not a huge Cone Mills fan, but I bought a pair of Ooe Yofukuten trousers made from a sanforized Cone Mills fabric because I love the design, cut, details, and how well Ooe Yofukuten makes their clothing so I can definitely understand that line of thinking.

In fairness, I am in line for a Field Leathers jacket and it's going to be Shinki, but I would buy from Greg even if that wasn't the leather. It just so happens that he's using Shinki. In fact, I would prefer a Badalassi hide if I could get it and would take pretty much any decent veg tanned leather that he offered as long as he was the one making it.

I also agree with @Mich486 . I think Horween makes some seriously nice vegetable and even combo-tanned leathers that would be much nicer for jackets IMO. I've seen examples of their Vermont espresso that look incredible for example. Even with CXL there are exceptions. Ton's new green-blue for example is a CXL I might actually consider buying because I love that shade so much.
 

red devil

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,950
Location
London
It is funny, handling many leather jackets and many colours made me indifferent to branding. I think once you reach a certain level, you are in a good position. You just want a top end leather.

Who cares about the name?

Shinki and CXL vary a lot, you can get good hides from them and bad ones. It is not because it is called whatever that you are guaranteed a quality, the only thing you are guaranteed is the name.

I only care if the maker I am working with can get me a leather that gets his approval and is close to what I want. If he doesn't have the type I want - maybe it is too unique and he can't afford to stock it - then I will source it, but I will do so with his supervision. He is the specialist.
 

Bfd70

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,296
Location
Traverse city
Didn’t read all 20 pages so if this has been asked apologies but....for this snowy (here) Saturday:

How many jackets is enough?

Seriousness optional.
 

Mrfrown

One Too Many
Messages
1,647
As many as you can purchase without regret, give the wear they deserve, and have the space to store properly!
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,314
Didn’t read all 20 pages so if this has been asked apologies but....for this snowy (here) Saturday:

How many jackets is enough?

Seriousness optional.
I recently ordered new wooden hangers for my leather jackets. They were sold in 6-packs so I thought let's order 3 (18 hangers total). But I was only able to add 2 to my shopping basket. Turned our they were on backorder, only 2 left in stock.

That's when I thought, this is a sign :) I currently own 8 nice leather jackets. Another 2 will be delivered next week and I just put in an order for another custom FL. Which will bring the total number at 11. I'm planning on visiting Theodoros as soon as the Covid situation has settled which will add another 2 I guess.

From then on, it'll be a one in one out regime.
 

Peacoat

*
Bartender
Messages
6,449
Location
South of Nashville
I recently ordered new wooden hangers for my leather jackets. They were sold in 6-packs so I thought let's order 3 (18 hangers total). But I was only able to add 2 to my shopping basket. Turned our they were on backorder, only 2 left in stock.

That's when I thought, this is a sign :) I currently own 8 nice leather jackets. Another 2 will be delivered next week and I just put in an order for another custom FL. Which will bring the total number at 11. I'm planning on visiting Theodoros as soon as the Covid situation has settled which will add another 2 I guess.

From then on, it'll be a one in one out regime.
You have only just started. Better order another dozen hangers. That should hold you for another couple of years.
 
Messages
11,149
Location
SoCal
Once you have exhausted all avenues of exploration.

Put another way, once you have been all over the world... it takes several lifetimes ;)
I dunno...I’ve been in this for almost 10 years, and the other day I was looking at the jackets (hanging in my kid’s closet) and thinking...”I don’t really wear any of these, maybe it’s time to sell.’
I’ve become obsessive over tiny things, and none of them are “perfect” for one reason or another...perhaps it’s time for a reset. I’ve recently been scouring ebay for interesting aloha shirts.
 
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red devil

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,950
Location
London
I dunno...I’ve been in this for almost 10 years, and the other day I was looking at the jackets (hanging in my kid’s closet) and thinking...”I don’t really wear any of these, maybe it’s time to sell.’
I’ve become obsessive over tiny things, and none of them are “perfect” for one reason or another...perhaps it’s time for a reset. I’ve recently been scouring ebay for aloha shirts.

Maybe you need to explore a radically different style?

You are also still looking for that perfect green jacket :)
 
Messages
11,149
Location
SoCal
Maybe you need to explore a radically different style?

That’s how I ended up with a fringed cafe racer...

I do have one saved up for GW...;) I even sourced an old Navajo buckle for it...
@ton312’s blue/green is amazing, but I think I’m over CXL. Now I want a substantial mid-weight pliable luxurious hide that makes me feel like a million bucks.
 
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