1930 Slim Fit Half Belt Back Modification

[Sloan1874]

You're absolutely right. What my one lacks is the front yoke.

 

[ProteinNerd]

I just love that jacket mate. Are you still in USA or did you get home in time for the Ashes? Also, any stories to tell, or shops visited? Cheers.

Last day in Hawaii today before heading home so I missed the Ashes. Not a big deal....I'd rather be here lol

Lots of stories but I decided not to go jacket hunting in NY, I've got a Hercules on the way and tbh, I'm at the point where I have enough now.....I'm even thinking of cancelling my spot in the GW queue!

 

[pauleway]

Yes, either an inverted pleat or a bi-swing will get rid of the excess fabric.

I wanted a Bi-swing added to a 30's HB, and they would not do it. Said it was historically incorrect! [huh]

 

[Sloan1874]

Am I wrong in thinking bi-swings are a 40s development? I wasn't really thinking in terms of accuracy, more of a solution. The answer is probably an inverted pleat.

 

[Cooperson]

I am thinking about a different back for a 1930 slim fit half belt to get rid of the excess material.

Not to alter this one but to plan a new one.
Any suggestions? Pictures are welcome.



Thanks

I would be carefull what you wish for, if you remove the extra from the back, it might look nice when viewed from the rear but you won't be able to reach forward without feeling very constricted. As suggested, a bi-swing back or pleat would be the way to go.

 

[avsmusic1]

You're absolutely right. What my one lacks is the front yoke.

Love it

 

[ButteMT61]

You're absolutely right. What my one lacks is the front yoke.

Nothing that the Bank Of Sloan can't fix:

 

[Sloan1874]

Brilliant! lol

 

[Jägernaut]

I'm at the point where I have enough now.....I'm even thinking of cancelling my spot in the GW queue!

Yay. I might move up one spot!

 

[navetsea]

that is a nice front drop Sloan!

 

[Sockeye]

Anyone out there ordered a half belt with a cafe racer/board racer collar?

 

[dan_t]

Anyone out there ordered a half belt with a cafe racer/board racer collar?

From Aero?
I know they'll do some modifications, but that one is mixing styles in a manner which I'd be surprised if they would entertain.
Both the half belt & café racer are iconic styles, but worlds apart. The half belt is a classic workers jacket from the 1920's onwards, whilst the café racer was a 50's or 60's design I think.

Either way, I'd be interested to know whether anyone has seen what you are looking for before.

 

[Fanch]

Don't believe I would want to make that modification even if aero would agree. [huh]

 

[Sloan1874]

Under the old regime, somebody had a Windward made with a mandarin collar added and that was described officially as 'the worst Aero jacket in the world', so I wouldn't get your hopes up.

 

[Seb Lucas]

From Aero?
I know they'll do some modifications, but that one is mixing styles in a manner which I'd be surprised if they would entertain.
Both the half belt & café racer are iconic styles, but worlds apart. The half belt is a classic workers jacket from the 1920's onwards, whilst the café racer was a 50's or 60's design I think.

Either way, I'd be interested to know whether anyone has seen what you are looking for before.

Actually from my reading the mandarin style cafe racer goes way back about as far as the half-belt. Over the years a number of people customized mandarin collars on half-belts when the shirt collar started to tear at the collar seam. I have seen at least three of these mods and they look ok. Aero may not want to be part of this idea.

 

[Sloan1874]

Beyond the actual aesthetics of the collar, one of the problems is the actual physical practicalities. Not every collar design is interchangeable - the mandarin-type is not easily plonked on to another body - and would probably require a unique pattern made to fit it.

 

[Monitor]

What Sloan said. Also, Denny recently said each request is considered but if it takes away from the design or balance of the jacket, it will not be approved. It's not even possible to switch to a standard HWM collar on a Premium HWM jacket, and vice versa as the jackets are not compatible; and that's saying a lot considering that, technically, it's the same style. In all honesty, I doubt the mandarin collar on a HB can happen. This sort of modification may require a serious alteration of an entire pattern - if not making one from scratch - which alone is few weeks worth of project on its own, and all that work only for the buyer to say 'well, that looks stupid, I've changed my mind. I'd rather have a normal collar', afterwards.

Then again, perhaps it doable? lol

 

[Edward]

You're absolutely right. What my one lacks is the front yoke.

:thu: I went without the yoke as well, though I added a chest pocket to mine. Originally, I was looking at the idea of a Speedster as that was the front I wanted, but the Dustbowl is the much nicer back, to my eye.

Am I wrong in thinking bi-swings are a 40s development? I wasn't really thinking in terms of accuracy, more of a solution. The answer is probably an inverted pleat.

If memory serves, the USN M422 was firstg issued with one in 1940 (presumably it was developed as a design before that), though I don't recall seeing a civilian design with an action back that dates pre 1945.

If Aero have declined to do an action back on a HB, I'd say it's a mix of it deviating too much from their design aesthetic and what they're trying tog achieve with that particular jacket, and it probably requiring significant alternation to the pattern, which they don't do.

Anyone out there ordered a half belt with a cafe racer/board racer collar?

From Aero?
I know they'll do some modifications, but that one is mixing styles in a manner which I'd be surprised if they would entertain.
Both the half belt & café racer are iconic styles, but worlds apart. The half belt is a classic workers jacket from the 1920's onwards, whilst the café racer was a 50's or 60's design I think.

Either way, I'd be interested to know whether anyone has seen what you are looking for before.

Baron Kurtz has owned one or two original thirties jackets - American or European, I'm unsure, though I have a feeling at least one was German - with that style of collar. Well, ish.... not the studs et cetera that you see on a modern cafe racer type collar, but simply one with the foldover 'shirt collar' shape missing. I'm sure there's a photo of one like that in the Rin Tanika book too.

The Aero Kradjacke (I think still in development, or did I miss itg on the site?) has that sort of collar - Sloan posted some photos of the new prototype a while back:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?80017-New-Aero-Kradjacke-First-Look

Under the old regime, somebody had a Windward made with a mandarin collar added and that was described officially as 'the worst Aero jacket in the world', so I wouldn't get your hopes up.

Ha! Yes. That was nasty....

All done and said, it's really up to Aero to decide what looks god and what they'll do in the way of mods. Personally, I lean in favour of their new approach of not just doing everything the customers wants. That level of bespoke just isn't what they do for one, but also given how important word of mouth is in this particular niche.... can you imagin if that jacket was the only Aero you'd ever seen and then you were asked to consider the idea of paying out £700ish for one? Yeah... There's what's practicably possible within their business model (pattern fits and such), and then there's what they want out there representing them....