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  1. Qirrel

    Show off the sports coats.

    That is unavoidable. IMHO, less space between the buttons on a double breasted jacket looks good on slimmer figures.
  2. Qirrel

    Show us your suits

    Machine padding was common, probably right from the start of the 1900s and even earlier. The zig-zag stitch machine wasn't invented until the late 19th century and was only used for industrial sewing. The usual practice when machine padding would be to use a straight stitch as that would have...
  3. Qirrel

    OLDEST pleated belt-back suit jacket ever???

    I don't see why that would be unlikely. Unusual maybe, but so is it today.
  4. Qirrel

    Corbin Blazer

    Wait for the winter sale and get a 1000 dollar jacket for 500.
  5. Qirrel

    Starched Shirt Question.

    If you are thinking from a historical perspective then yes, it was the norm until around the turn of the century. Getting thicker shirts would also solve your problems. From a contemporary perspective I guess it wouldn't make a huge difference to the way people perceive you if you were already a...
  7. Qirrel

    custom/MTM suit, where to start? guidance needed!

    This is only possible, or rather, advisable, to the extent that there is enough inlay in the sideseam. Adding pleats will increase the waist suppression, so the same amount taken out by pleats would need to be let out. If there is inlay it should be a simple job for your alterationist.
  8. Qirrel

    Color of 1930s-40s dress shirts?

    Rather than the "golden era" being especially colourful, I would say that todays clothing is generally less colourful than earlier periods. It is all about barely distinguishable patterns and subdued colours, in a kind of -"I dress well, but don't want too look like I'm having fun doing it-"...
  9. Qirrel

    Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

    I made my own pattern, measurements roughly copied from another cap. I've described the method in my blog.
  10. Qirrel

    What cigar (or pipe) did you smoke today?

    Montecristo petit tubo, followed by a few mini Cohibas. Petit tubo was not worth the price jump from the regular #4 IMHO.
  11. Qirrel

    Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

    A cap made from leftover fabric:
  13. Qirrel

    J.L. Taylor men's fashion catalog, 1927

    Back in the day, they knew that buttoning the bottom button was not a matter of (sartorial) life and death, but personal stylistic choice.
  14. Qirrel

    Slant pockets on suits?

    Depends on the tailor. This book is only on cutting, not the actual making (even though there are tips about that), so a tailor wishing to replicate them exactly would need to have some experience in making costumes. You could give the stylistic points to a skilled tailor and get pretty close to...
  15. Qirrel

    Slant pockets on suits?

    Armscye is basically the armhole and sleeve head/cap is the top of the sleeve. And roping, if you didn't know, is when the sleeve looks like it has a rope inside it right along the seam at the shoulder. There would be less material (in general) in the shoulder pad than has been common for the...
  16. Qirrel

    Slant pockets on suits?

    There is shoulder padding, I assure you. The sleeve head is just made differently than today, without the "rope" effect. There would also probably be padding all around the armscye, even in the back of the jacket.
  17. Qirrel

    Show us your suits

    If the suit is made correctly, it should not. Btw, the gorge is the seam where the collar joins the lapel.
  19. Qirrel

    Pomade

    I use american crew. The "high shine" isn't at all that shiny and i think they offer different grades of shine anyways. It being water based is a convenience too; easy to wash out and mixes well with greasy hair :P
  20. Qirrel

    Holy Grail runner-up suit

    Suits certainly sell better when photographs are taken of them on dummies. Most suits look like potato sacks when on the hanger like the one in this thread.
  21. Qirrel

    Bow Ties

    I noticed some extras who looked like they came by time machine from the 30s. But only a few. What specifically do you think is not correct about the protagonists?
  22. Qirrel

    1915-1925 era men's clothing catalogues?

    http://digitalgallery.nypl.org/nypldigital/dgkeysearchresult.cfm?word=Men%20%2D%2D%20Clothing%20%26%20dress%20%2D%2D%201920%2D1929&s=3&notword=&f=2 http://digitalgallery.nypl.org/nypldigital/dgkeysearchresult.cfm?word=Men%20%2D%2D%20Clothing%20%26%20dress%20%2D%2D%201910%2D1919&s=3&notword=&f=2
  23. Qirrel

    Flared Breeches Pattern?

    Drafting isn't that hards really. You will get a good pattern if you follow the instructions exactly and to the proportionate measurements. http://www.costumes.org/history/100p...ttersguide.htm This has some good instructions at the beginning of the book on trousers but the language is a bit...

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