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  1. Qirrel

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    Here are some details of my collar construction and method of attaching it. First picture shows the padding (perpendicular to the break), and the lines of machine stitches. Here I aw showing the effect the ironwork has had on the shape of the collar. It is now round to fit the neck...
  2. Qirrel

    possible 20s British suit ?

    I noticed it too. Three closely spaced buttons would be very unusual on a British suit. Would have bought it if it were not for the fact that I bought no less than 12 suits last weekend, and haven't got around to put them on ebay yet.
  3. Qirrel

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    I also use the suit fabric for the undercollar. And I don't pad stitch the stand, instead I use the machine to sew several lines of stitching parallel to the break line. I have experimented with how the pad stitching of the fall affects the finished look. In some books you are told to pad along...
  4. Qirrel

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    It was common to put in elastic tape to keep the pleats neat when the fabric was unruly. With elastic, a 120s ++ would work just fine; without you would need to press the pleat quite often.
  5. Qirrel

    Show us your British suits

    The double buttons for braces are simply backups in case one should fall off in wear.
  7. Qirrel

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    The main motivation for a sewn on/two piece pleat would be to conserve fabric. And, as you say, if you want it to curve into the sideseam rather than have it go straight down to the belt, it would be better to have it in two pieces. It would waste fabric if it is grown on.
  8. Qirrel

    Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

    ^ I agree. Here is the workings of a shoulder pleated coat, Mario. Look at drawing to the right in the diagram. When the cloth is folded along the dotted line, the pleat is formed, and the jacket can be sewn up as usual.
  9. Qirrel

    Oxford Bags

    Here is something else though. One Harold Acton claims to be the inventor of the oxford bags (seemingly unrelated to the fuzzy trousers), in his "victorian revival"...
  10. Qirrel

    Oxford Bags

    Surely there were other places in the UK where people wore trousers for "tennis, cricket, and boating purposes". Yeah, forget what I wrote there. Got a bit confused, I think. According to esquires encyclopedia, the original trousers had 22" bottoms, and earlier in this thread, a 1925...
  11. Qirrel

    Oxford Bags

    But why oxford, and not some other town? The sporting trousers surely must have been used in other places as well. My point is that oxford might simply have been the place where the wide legged 30s trouser was seen for the first time worn with a suit.
  13. Qirrel

    Oxford Bags

    I wonder what, though, that made the "Oxford" bag name stick. What was it about the oxford bags/sporting trousers that made them so special as to (possibly) turn into an urban myth? All the cartoons that were posted in this thread are likely to be exaggerated in their portrayal of the "bags"...
  14. Qirrel

    Oxford Bags

    I think it is very probable that they were simply called sporting trousers/tennis trousers/boating trousers etc.
  15. Qirrel

    Oxford Bags

    A good tip, if you can't find the weight you are looking for, is to process your own wool. Simply put some decent weight white wool in a tub, top up with hot water and soap, then dance around in it for a couple of hours. I have managed to get up to 800 gsm wool with this method.
  16. Qirrel

    Oxford Bags

    I agree. I think 1890s mid 1910s at the latest. Look at the very high buttoning jackets, boots and tall stiff collars. My quotation is from between 1890 and 1900. (The book does not have a date.)
  17. Qirrel

    Oxford Bags

    I can't remember where I read it (In some tailoring magazine or cutting book I'm sure, but it is hard to find when I can't search the contents.), but I have seen references to the making of "trousers for sport" or something along those lines. Apparently it was not uncommon to make them with 20"...
  19. Qirrel

    Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

    Got some time to work on the green jacket today. As I may have mentioned, I had to cut up the trousers to get fabric for the sleeves. A shame, as I quite like they way they turned out: Anyway: Marking and adjusting the sleeve. Basting: Attaching the lining to the sleeves...
  20. Qirrel

    Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

    That method of sewing, i.e. whip stitching the fabric pieces together (albeit with more closely spaced stitches) was actually a common way of sewing in earlier times. From the outside it looks like a regular seam, and it has the added benefit of finishing the raw edges on the inside.
  21. Qirrel

    Bespoke Savile Row belt back 1990s

    I don't think the belt makes a difference to the price. We are talking about three seams, a bit of fabric, and a pleat in the back. It shouldn't add to the cost of an already very expensive jacket. At that price point it really should be the fabric that matters. (Except maybe if one wanted the...
  22. Qirrel

    Show us your British suits

    It wouldn't be very neat to have those little squares of linen uncovered, in my opinion. And while we are on the topic of pocket stays, here is another way of doing it. (A better way, to be precise.):
  23. Qirrel

    Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

    First rip the original backing off (including the centre seam if there is one), then trace around and cut the four pieces you need. If there is a back seam, sew it together now, making sure that when finished, the seam allowances will be hidden between the two pieces of the back. Now take one...

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