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  1. Qirrel

    Another "Holy Grail" suit up on Ebay- a full edwardian sack suit.

    Of course, but there wouldn't have been many old men left in, say 1920, to buy this suit, which could pass for something from the 1880s. I'm just saying that it is unlikely to be from anything after the edwardian period, since anyone wishing to have this style made after that would have to be...
  2. Qirrel

    Another "Holy Grail" suit up on Ebay- a full edwardian sack suit.

    The cut of this coat would have been utterly outdated by 1920, to the point that you wouldn't want your servants to wear it. There doesn't seem to be much waist suppression at all, which would have been very common in the 20s and most definitely the 30s. There is no front dart, which was also...
  3. Qirrel

    Another "Holy Grail" suit up on Ebay- a full edwardian sack suit.

    The trousers have (permanent) turn-ups, which I believe was not seen until the late 1890s.
  4. Qirrel

    Oxford Bags

    Those are closer to a hakama than a pair of trousers!
  5. Qirrel

    Show us your SHOES !!!

    Recent flea market find. Norwegian made, 3 eyelet, perforated leather:
  6. Qirrel

    The quality of a suit

    I have been looking for twill lining for a long time, too. It is proving difficult, though, as the closest to vintage fabric I have found is stuff from the 70s at the local fabric shop.
  7. Qirrel

    The quality of a suit

    1912 suit: (Sorry about the flash, but it really gets too dark otherwise. (White walls))
  8. Qirrel

    The quality of a suit

    I can take some tomorrow when there is daylight.
  9. Qirrel

    The quality of a suit

    I have an example from 1912. (Styled pretty much exactly like some of the suits in the photograph.) It is black, made from a weighty, very heavily milled cloth. You mean me? (Well sure, if you want one.)
  10. Qirrel

    The quality of a suit

    Ive seen some changes in internal finishing, and many more interesting fabrics. If they could just stop being such slobs and make high armholes I would be a good customer.
  11. Qirrel

    Adding a third button to a two-button jacket?

    Yes, I have tried this before. The jacket (completely fused) had only minor (almost not noticeable) fit issues after I had pressed it rather vigorously for 15 minutes. That was a low buttoning two button. The problems with the collar are much more obvious the higher up on the chest you go. So as...
  12. Qirrel

    Adding a third button to a two-button jacket?

    This doesn't really work with fused jackets either. The fusing does the same thing as pad-stitching, just in a less durable way. Besides, the collar also decides the roll of a lapel, so if the lapels are pressed out of their normal two button shape the collar will become distorted. If you want...
  13. Qirrel

    Remember That $55 Belted-Back Suit ?

    No, no, not a tailor. An amateur, at best. If the "collar creep" isn't some dry-cleaner's fault, and simply pressing the collar down where it should be is not enough, then try fixing it as "a tailor" describes here...
  14. Qirrel

    Remember That $55 Belted-Back Suit ?

    It is perfectly fixable with a proper repressing of the collar.
  15. Qirrel

    Formal Wear Primer

    I believe the dispute between Jeeves and Wooster concerns a white mess jacket, not a regular dinner jacket.
  16. Qirrel

    Shoe Care / Shoe Shine

    You could remove the black polish (with alcohol), but that would remove the original colour, which also comes from some type of polish. If you want them to be black, you can keep using black polish on the areas which still appear brown.
  17. Qirrel

    Show us your suits

    I agree. You can see that the lapel "bellies" out at the third button; the roll should always begin below this. By the way the buttonhole is done by hand, although rather poorly.
  18. Qirrel

    What a suit shouldn't do.

    I don't quite follow you there. Do our definitions of rise differ? I am no expert, but I have drafted and made quite a few trousers, and without exception, the rise was the difference between the sideseam (that is from the top of the waistband, past the pocket and along the seam down to the...
  19. Qirrel

    What a suit shouldn't do.

    I am pretty sure that you would have a hard time finding a cutting system where the rise does not equal the difference between the outseam and the inseam. This is the correct way of measuring the rise.
  20. Qirrel

    Formal Wear Primer

    I do not blame them either. However, if one was the member of an orchestra and wanted to look the part, there are perfectly viable options that do not require starch, ex. some of the shirts from Darcy clothing. Also, clothing bought for work purposes is tax deductible in many countries.

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