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  1. Qirrel

    Measurements of suits

    It is all really relative when it comes to measuring up a suit. You can make a coat with huge, padded shoulder, narrow shoulders like the early 20th c., no chest drape or lots of chest drape, drape in the back only, a fuller chest than usual, and so on. A good example is the "exaggerated"...
  2. Qirrel

    The Lounge's Best Vintage Suit Seller

    Maybe we need a new forum. Or a new forum section. I respect Sator's decision to keep the DIY-people out of C&T, but it is really quite frustrating how it seems to be the only place that draws people with those interests. It has pretty much turned into a read-only forum for me.
  3. Qirrel

    Help for an absolute beginner

    While were on the topic, why is the lack of coat hooks so prevalent in public toilets? I'm fine with the braces touching the floor, but I shouldn't have to throw my jacket and vest on the floor as well. And I find that paper dispensers generally do not make for good hat shelves.
  4. Qirrel

    Bow Ties

    The label is the same as on some 1930s Edsor ties I own.
  5. Qirrel

    Reproduction Menswear?

    Nice, like the rest of Ralph Laurens high quality stuff. Although it isn't really a frock coat.
  6. Qirrel

    Formal Wear Primer

    I'd say there is. What about that conspicuous (unused?) buttonhole, as marked in red? Of course it could be that it is the button to attach the vest to, but I am thinking it is not, as I have seen this very configuration on a pair of trousers before.
  7. Qirrel

    Wool Weight Translation

    It is measured in oz./square yard or grams/square metre.
  8. Qirrel

    Formal Wear Primer

    Doesn't it go through the buttonhole on its immediate left?
  9. Qirrel

    Pull this on.

    Behold the boot hook! ALthough the finger loop is decidedly more practical for ankle boots.
  10. Qirrel

    White formal vest?

    And here is an example with lounge suits. (Early 1900):
  11. Qirrel

    White formal vest?

    Are the buttons detachable? If so, it is probably a washable summer vest. I haven't seen any 30s or 20s examples, but I know that they were common well into the edwardian period.
  12. Qirrel

    What are you wearing today??

    I assure you, with only slightly more effort it is perfectly doable.
  13. Qirrel

    Hair cuts

    I have heard beeswax mentioned as well. It does dry up to a matte look like you describe (although I haven't tried putting it in my hair). One would have to mix it out with some oil or other to make it the right consistency. Or perhaps make an emulsion with water.
  14. Qirrel

    Hair cuts

    Macassar oil has a notorious tendency to soil everything it comes into contact with. If you want to use it, be prepared to install some of these in your house: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antimacassar And, by the way, macassar oil gives glossy hair.
  15. Qirrel

    Cutting on the Bias - Bow Tie

    It is my understanding that ties are cut on the bias because it prevents them from twisting (i.e. not hanging straight down from the neck). I don't think you would have that problem any way you cut the fabric for a bow tie, due to their size and the way they are tied.
  16. Qirrel

    Australian Vintage Suits

    The terms are actually interchangeable. Although "jetted" seems to be the more common name in America. In Britain they are usually referred to as a double welted pocket; the breast pocket is simply a large single welt. However, the pockets on the trousers of the suits pictured in this thread I...
  17. Qirrel

    1945 Dinner Jacket

    Keep in mind that jacket lengths varies quite a lot with fashion. Average measure tables (from books on cutting, etc.) that I have seen differ by as much as an inch in different years. Also remember that a 30" length (from nape of neck to hem) is not the "regular" length for all sizes and heights.
  18. Qirrel

    Sartorial Art Journal, 1942

    There are many more like these at nypl's online digital gallery, including a lot of fashion plates from the 10s and 20s. Great place for reference.
  19. Qirrel

    An Appeal to the Yanks Around Here

    Some pictures of my 1912 suit. Made in Chicago. The jacket: The trousers.
  20. Qirrel

    An Appeal to the Yanks Around Here

    It is almost certainly a covered pocket stay, following the underarm dart up to the armscye. From the vintage suits I've been inside, this looks to be just as common as staying diagonally, as you describe. I use the method shown on this suit when I make jackets. The side seam being folded...

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