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The Vintage Tailoring Thread
The "waterfall effect" is also a result of there not being wadding to make things smooth and round (it would be rather stupid to have wadding if you wanted the fullness in the crown to look uneven), but you also need to shorten the sleeve cap height, otherwise you will have a much uglier looking... -
The Vintage Tailoring Thread
The "shirt shoulder/sleeve" is probably a continuation or recycling of the style of sleeve which was common during the 19th century, up to the 1890s. The sleeves were cut with a lower cap, which gives that "wave" effect when the sleeve is set. You don't actually have to turn the seams the... -
Gentlemen, show us what you've made!
It is a bit difficult to judge from the pictures, but if the fullness appeared only after the basting was removed, you could have basted the canvas in too short. Did you try shrinking the fullness away? And the problem with the sleeves looks like the one you get when you force in too much fullness.- Qirrel
- Post #521
- Forum: General Attire & Accoutrements
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The Vintage Tailoring Thread
Here is an interesting idea from a German tailoring magazine: How to wear your trousers as knickerbockers: -
Norfolk Jacket
I think the original straps (which do not touch the outer pockets, as you say) were reinforcement for internal hare pockets. This way one could tack the hare pocket to canvas or linen hidden underneath the fabric of the strap. This way the pockets are reinforced and the coat prevented from... -
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Early 20th century dinner suit
The trousers are cut for a corpulent figure. The front of the waistband rises up like that to give extra room for the belly, to conceal it, and make the waistband run in a straight line across the front.- Qirrel
- Post #2
- Forum: Vintage Finds and Deals
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Ralph Lauren Linen-Mix Jacket on Ebay UK
My point is: In the above case, you could remove the belt, stitch down the pleats in the places where the belt used to hold them down, and you would be as far in function, but not in looks.- Qirrel
- Post #7
- Forum: Vintage Finds and Deals
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Ralph Lauren Linen-Mix Jacket on Ebay UK
Because it looks good. If the function of the belt is the important thing, then why not dispose of it entirely? The pleats stay in just fine without it.- Qirrel
- Post #5
- Forum: Vintage Finds and Deals
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Gentlemen, show us what you've made!
Very nice jacket. Love the curved yoke. But, about the buttonholes, why not make the ends parallel and make a bar tack, instead of crossing them over? I know I have a buttonhole complex, but still...- Qirrel
- Post #474
- Forum: General Attire & Accoutrements
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Need help identifying Victorian coat.
Probably not a game keeper. They would not have worn this colour combination, that is, black and striped trousers, which was the most formal way of wearing a morning coat/frock coat. For pre ca. 1900 (which is when this coat was popular, as Cobden said), this would have been regular daytime... -
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Need help identifying Victorian coat.
This is a standard morning coat of the period, with a high buttoning point, which was also very common. These coats show up on ebay quite regularly, although four button morning coats tend to be more expensive than three buttons or two buttons. -
Neckties before the early 1920's
Ties from that period were much more varied than they are today. Here are some examples from 1912: The slipstitch, is, in my opinion overrated by the iGentry. I read all sorts of praise about how the slipstitch makes or breaks a good tie, yet all my machine stitched ties hold up perfectly well.- Qirrel
- Post #2
- Forum: General Attire & Accoutrements
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ebay.co.uk vintage pages gone awry ?
Sigh. Every time this happens I imagine that this is a result of ebay programmers feigning progress by spending their whole budget destroying and then repairing their own system.- Qirrel
- Post #11
- Forum: Vintage Finds and Deals
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The Vintage Tailoring Thread
Could you show us a picture of that collar? -
The Vintage Tailoring Thread
More collars! Here is the 1910 frock coat. (French) Notice that it has been padded very thickly. A gratuitous picture of a very beautiful buttonhole: 1880-1900 Norwegian evening tailcoat. This too has been padded very thickly. Early 1930s German. I can't see any padding... -
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The Vintage Tailoring Thread
Simple: I can't be bothered to spend money on melton when the suiting works just as well. If the suiting ravels to much Ill simply use some scraps from my ever-increasing pile of left over fabric. -
Deadstock Edwardian and 1930s footwear (some in original boxes)
If only I had thousands of pounds to spend on shoes. Sigh indeed.- Qirrel
- Post #9
- Forum: Vintage Finds and Deals
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Deadstock Edwardian and 1930s footwear (some in original boxes)
The (poor quality) stacy adams boots, now out of production, have this. It is a shame that they are made from such bad leather.- Qirrel
- Post #6
- Forum: Vintage Finds and Deals
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The Vintage Tailoring Thread
I also turn in the facing and baste it down to the position of the finished seam. Then I baste the lining to the collar canvas, and attach the loose end of the bridle tape, holding it slightly tight: After drawing the collar on: On the inside I sew the collar onto the lining through to...
