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  1. Tailor Tom

    Graffiti Cloth

    And that is exactly what that piece of goods was, An Advertisement! What I think everyone fails to grasp, is that weaving technology has improved so much, as to be able to clearly print letters. Its not that one has to do such a thing, but that the ability to control the looms to that degree...
  2. Tailor Tom

    Pants waist size

    True Actually this is exactly the case that has been quietly happening over the last few years. I have seen a lot of it from clients with alterations. Namely in casual clothing, but in dress clothing as well. I see many casual pants that are not their stated size, being off by inches...
  3. Tailor Tom

    Graffiti Cloth

    cont. If I remember correctly, one could put in quite a long name or phrase. I recall H&S doing samples in their name, a client's name and statements such as "the finest fabrics in the world" It is def not for the faint at heart to wear such a thing. The shown piece is done in high...
  4. Tailor Tom

    Graffiti Cloth

    its old news This custom weave has been around for years. Holland & Sherry started offering this custom weave a couple of decades ago. It was then in in Super 100's and now is available in lighter weights, I believe. There is usually a minimum of yardage that has to be ordered. I think with...
  5. Tailor Tom

    Vintage Polo Shirts

    My thoughts... For me it is the classic Ralph Lauren Polo. I still have 5-6 of them from when I worked for RL 20+ years ago. The fabric, stitching and the colors have held up through hundreds of washings and wearings....( ie: the red is still a solid red, not washed out, etc.) They are on...
  7. Tailor Tom

    Self-tailoring

    By jove, I think he's got it... He hit the nail on its head. As a Tailor we are taught to shrink, ease, mold and stretch fabrics to form it into that body covering garments. Chests can be made to accommodate a full or flat chested man, armholes are eased/back-stitched to help create that...
  8. Tailor Tom

    Self-tailoring

    My thoughts... As a tailor of 25 years (both bespoke clothing and alterations for my clients), I can attest that with out seeing the coat on you, it is very difficult to say what is needed, let alone how to do it. The "bunching of fabric can be attributed to a number of things...all of which...
  9. Tailor Tom

    New jacket; sleeves too short? Need opinions

    My thoughts... Yes the sleeves look short to me. Question: Try checking the interior pockets for the size. Maybe it is a really 38 short, possibly mismarked? I mention this because it looks like the waist of the coat, and the top button is a bit high for your body and the nature of a 2-button...
  10. Tailor Tom

    Guy Culture, custom-made extravagance

    2 problems The first problem is that he is just too bulky/beefy/worked out for the size of suit they have him in. The second problem is that is you look closely, he has a low shoulder....many people actually do...and the suit isn't cut, nor compensating for it (say, in the way of a...
  11. Tailor Tom

    Beltback fabric

    My little bit.... Just commenting on the belt. granted they are made in both directions, but I would put the stripe horizontal too...fro 2 reasons. 1. The original reason of the idea of a belt-back was to cinch the waist. thus one must think of stress put upon the area of interest. The...
  13. Tailor Tom

    Hmm do you think Brooks Bros. is regretting the Thom Browne fiasco???

    Love it Actually, I'ld wear most everything on that page. I think it is smart, very clever fashion. Most designers push the envelope, and Thomas Brown is no different. As for pricing, they are designer prices. I charge more for custom. Brooks Brothers offers many traditional items, the...
  14. Tailor Tom

    Ralph Lauren

    RL For me, it has nothing to do with and emblem or a name. It has to do with the quality that comes along with it. I make clothes for a living now. and I keep my name a very low-key issue, but I strive for the quality and hopefully the length of garment life that Ralph Lauren has achieved, as...
  15. Tailor Tom

    Ralph Lauren

    Big RL fan I do admit to being a big Ralph Lauren fan. As I used to work for the company years ago. Sadly it was prior to the introduction of his Purple & Black Label clothing. Wish I could have bought that at a discount. But I have many items from that time that have stood up way...
  16. Tailor Tom

    seersucker suits

    Haspel Turns 100 We should all wish Haspel a Happy Birthday, and many more. For it is they who pushed Seersucker into the mainstream for us all to enjoy. “Anyone who has ever made the mistake of wearing a wool suit in the summer owes a thank you to Joseph Haspel Sr., who founded his brand...
  17. Tailor Tom

    favorite cars of the golden era

    Cars A favorite period car would be tough for me, as I tend to gravitate towards late 50's and 60's Italian makes, but if I were a man of upper middle class in the 1940's I would have enjoyed a '40 La Salle Convertible. As I wouldn't have achieved Cadillac status. It has rather graceful lines...
  19. Tailor Tom

    Fabric for summer weight suit?

    My thoughts... It would depend on the ratio of wool to Mohair, but it would probably be in the 9-9.5 oz. area. Mohair itself would have been traditional for light weight suits, and is also used in formal attire quite often (think of a bunch of people at an event in small spaces with little...
  20. Tailor Tom

    Hair cuts

    Lookin' Good Right smart cut. Looks great with your face and features. You wear it well.
  21. Tailor Tom

    Evening wear inquiry

    My thoughts... I think dhermann hit it pretty much right on the mark. I too think a Chesterfield would be about the most versatile for a gentleman. I would think a subtle herringbone would be deemed quite classic, charcoal or brown. I admit to knowing very little in the way of hats, so defer to...
  22. Tailor Tom

    French Designer-30's Inspired

    Make you think They are all very well thought out, I believe. Yes, they push the envelope, but that is what most "fashion" designers do. People will take style ques from them, and rarely will you see it in full regale. I admired all of the designs, and all for different bits-n-pieces. He...
  23. Tailor Tom

    Best Fitted Off-the-Shelf Dress Shirt?

    My thoughts... If you can get a decent custom shirt for $45....just leave all the stores behind. The custom will give you a truly fitted body and a better neck fit, allowing for shrinkage in the wash,and the sleeve length you need...not to mention all of the cuff options available. don't...

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