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  1. Tailor Tom

    Minneapolis remodelers turn up old hoard of hooch

    Another reason to love Minneapolis....people with the good sense to plan ahead for the "dry period" of Prohibition. Just wish I could taste some of that hidden hooch. That bottle of John Walker must be just pristine.
  2. Tailor Tom

    Double breasted conversion?

    My thoughts... Going back to the original question. Yes it can be done. you can add a button hole etc and enjoy your suit. In reality it is more complex, due to canvas, tape, lapel shape, etc. The true break line (Roll) of the lapel is dictated by how the canvas is cut and stitched on...
  3. Tailor Tom

    Where is the "gorge" on a jacket?

    This is totally wrong. One can pattern a low gorge with a higher V and also do the reverse (high gorge with a low V) it is all a matter of patterning. and what styles currently are and what the customer wants. in the end, its just math, formulas, and pencil drawing converted into clothing.
  4. Tailor Tom

    Where is the "gorge" on a jacket?

    Adding my bit It is true that the line in which the collar meets the lapel is the Gorge. The high-lighted V-area is usually just referred to as the "V" which is caused from the intersection of the break lines. The area that was originally circled is the Notch. another bit of...
  5. Tailor Tom

    favorite cars of the golden era

    what an utterly great combination of words "... Graviton Polarity Generator"
  7. Tailor Tom

    Jimmy Stewart's Suit from Harvey

    added thought I also think the hardest part might be finding the correct fabric. or something that resembles it in modern fabrics. H&S has good looking items but for true heavy tweed fabric one would need to hit up W Bill.
  8. Tailor Tom

    Jimmy Stewart's Suit from Harvey

    Adding my bit The suit looks quite soft and rather un-constructed. ie; little to no canvas inside. sagging pockets, soft unsupported shoulders, etc. make it look over-sized & second hand. maybe on purpose ? Not to promote myself here, but if you need help contact me, as I have done quite a...
  9. Tailor Tom

    Taking out a jacket

    My little bit.... Shortening a coat can be a simple thing or a terrible disaster. Shortening most coats are limited to 1-1.5" due to pocket and button placement. And it will simply look really awkward (not to mention that is was worked on). The pockets them selves also usually get shortened...
  10. Tailor Tom

    Have any other men noticed this?

    My little bit.... A belt is measured to the middle notch (typically a belt has 5 holes), and holes are in 1' increments to allow for gains and losses.
  11. Tailor Tom

    Shoulder dust covers

    Adding my bit My concern would be in how tightly items are pushed together in your closet with the covers over them. As moister(depending on climate) can accumulate under the plastic and induce mold.....never a good thing. If you can find cotton dust covers, that would be ideal. Or just...
  13. Tailor Tom

    Taking out a jacket

    My thoughts... I would first go to a RELIABLE mens store and have them measure you, and then try on a few coats to see what will work best. The tailor there should be able to give you an honest opinion. If he doesn't...leave and find another place. Second, understand that most suits are cut...
  14. Tailor Tom

    Mending Mens Suits - 1943

    My little bit.... A lot of changes were made for the War effort. One of the biggest is that trousers weren't produced with cuffs. the plain hem would save a couple inches of material. When the War was over, you then see a lot of cuffs returning to trouser ads and then into one's wardrobe...
  15. Tailor Tom

    Patch pockets with hidden seams?????

    Thats it Yes, that is pretty much the idea behind it. Most companies that produce such things on a production line have specialized machinery, heads, jigs, etc. As for stitching be hand from the back...It just wouldn't be as strong, nor as consistent as a machine stitch.
  16. Tailor Tom

    Buttoning your jacket

    Your tailor was right Your Tailor was spot on. It has much to do with how the canvas and tape is done in the inside of the coat, as to how it hangs. This is specially clear in a 3 button. The canvas can be made to roll to the top, the middle or to a spot in between the 2 buttons. If it is...
  17. Tailor Tom

    Patch pockets with hidden seams?????

    My little bit.... Sounds relatively simple, but its not. If a large-scale manufacturer is doing it, then they have a special jig for the sewing machine and the machine stitches around....and there you go. It is pretty hard stuff. If I do it, I have to have the pocket marked all along the...
  19. Tailor Tom

    Pants waist size

    Adding my bit A perfect scene, played over and over. Often when fitting clients, they are trying to look at what I write down...and sometimes sneak a peak and are amazed. I usually just assure them that this is "MY" system of doing things and trust me, everything will be fine. And then...
  20. Tailor Tom

    Hanging jacket on coat rack

    Its not as much teh wool and all the various layers of canvas that make up the interior of the coat.
  21. Tailor Tom

    Plastic Bags and Suits

    My little bit.... DO NOT store your suits, your investments in a any plastic, ever! The chemical processes used by most cleaners are quite harsh and your garments need to "breath" The plastic is merely there to keep them from getting dirty again on the way home. Garments stored in...
  22. Tailor Tom

    Hanging jacket on coat rack

    As a Tailor... Please don't hang a coat from the loop at its neck. That loop is mainly there for decoration, and has a bit of history going back centuries. It is never really intended to be used. It is hard on the coat, can pull and distort the fabrics and canvas , and its just kind of...
  23. Tailor Tom

    Pants waist size

    more Several years ago, I had an acquaintance who oversaw design for Munsingwear. One of their biggest problems was sizing. They had same or similar products produces at various manufacturers around the world. And to get a medium to equal a medium from another vendor, let alone the original...

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