I have two, which represent phases 3 and 4 of your timeline.
My earlier jacket is a 46 tall, which could probably handle Wilt Chamberlain. I've had it "Indyized" by removing the knits, which brings the length under control for my 6'3" frame. It is US marked, has a Talon #10, great snaps, large...
I am sure that many posters know this, but the British Baracuta company apparently had trademark issues in the US for many years, and therefore marketed in North America under the trade name "Four Climes." These may be easier to find than the original brand.
Also, as a bit of trivia, the...
While this response may not be as useful as a link to Google (?), I can comment briefly: Most ring snaps are fastened by a center tube that is rivet-expanded. Schott and a few other makers employ, as the original poster shows, a double prong fastener that I believe comes out of the...
To my eye, the fit is not at all too tight-- the shoulder drops vertically, the rear view actually shows some excess material around the chest, and the overall fit looks "Thirties trim". If the owner needs to wear the jacket with a fisherman's sweater, it may be too small, but with the tee-shirt...
This US-made Harley D-pocket turned up in my recent travels. Looks to be cowhide, YKK zippers, distinctive ring snaps that have a nickel rim and a winged copper center, in a fairly classic D-pocket configuration.
Can anybody identify the maker (my first guess is Golden Bear or Schott) and...
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71541-One-man-s-system-machine-washing-and-conditioning-vintage-jackets
The "test jacket" for my leather washing tutorial is a Fidelity, as well. The giveaways are the punched-through rivets, the generic leather label, and as previously noted, the...
To reply to the questions about pigskin grain, leather is a protein and therefore heat formable, so its grain is easily changed. Remember that most leathers can be "calendared" or embossed, meaning rolled between hot metal rollers to form a desired grain. There are basketweave leather grains...
First, footballs aren't really made of pigskin, and actual pigskin is not pebble grained.
As others have noted, pigskin has large pores that go diagonally through the hide. Pigskin is a fairly thin skin, with moderate strength, and is difficult to flense (remove from the animal) in a uniform...
On double breasted suits, the bottom button is normally left unbuttoned, specifically to prevent pulling when seated. So I might suggest that you do a "3 on 8" buttoning technique.
I wash all of mine in cold water, and hot-lexol afterward, as documented on this board. Great grain, patina, and the seam stitching tightens a bit, giving that great "worn through grand adventures" look.
I have 37 inch gorilla arms so this is a perennial problem for me. I wash all my jackets, and stretch short arms while soaking wet via the weighted sleeves method. I've gotten up to 1-1/2 inches using this technique. Some jacketrs fold the cuff under and glue it-- you might find extra leather...
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71541-One-man-s-system-machine-washing-and-conditioning-vintage-jackets&highlight=one+man%27s+guide
Wash in cold, air dry, and you'll see essentially zero shrinkage. In fact it's possible to lengthen the sleeves by weighting them.
I don't have the hypothetical or hearsay knowledge of the usual experts here. But I have washed 30 jackets, and documented the process on this Board with dozens of illustrations. These have included pieces ranging from mall pigskin to Vanson 4 oz horsehide. Ruined thus far: None, as in zero.
Frankly, the preceding is the usual hate-america/hate-enterprise agitprop, which to any moderately conscious person is obviously untrue.
"Quality of mass produced goods falling for some time"-- probably typed on a low-cost laptop or tablet that offers 100x the computing power of the Eighties...
In the US, there are more choices at more quality levels than ever before. Even the lowest priced national retailer Walmart sells Levis, Lee, Wrangler, and several other brands of jeans for prices under $30. Decent quality leather jackets, cut loose but with decent hides, are available under...
I must admit to a little frustration as I watch this saga unfold week after week. I am at a 30 for 30 survival rate on jackets I've washed, including everything from pigskin mall jobs to Vansons. Zero fatalities, 100% success rate. Dusty, greasy, gritty, and in one case an epically moldy green...
Gents, let's think about this. If you burned a plastic soda bottle in your bedroom 20 times a day for twenty years straight, would you expect to clean the drapes with a shot of vinegar or a puff of bicarb? Cigarette smell is oil based fumes resulting from thousands of oil fires burning over...
Another vote for washing. I've washed at least 30 leather jackets over the years, and have not lost one. My Vanson horsehide has probably been washed 4-5 times. Plus, not only does washing get rid of smells, it pops the grain and generally brings the jacket back to near new visual condition...
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