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    Reasonable alteration

    I have alterations of this type done all the time. The elastics are removed and shortened, side seams are taken in progressively from the armpit down, and the jacket then has a waistband slimmed by the amount the side seam was narrowed x4-- an inch each side of the current seam gets you 4...
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    The side adjusting strap on my Highwayman keep coming loose

    Three thoughts: Those who drive automobiles with sporty seats might want to ponder the interaction of prong buckles and seat leather. One of my cars developed a fairly significant scuff at the exact point where the righthand prong slides across the seat. There is one additional way of keeping...
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    Everything Old is....

    Yes, shearling and aviation are back this year: GQ's Fall 2014 "What to Wear Now" has a spiky haired hipster in an Irvin clone with ginger fleece, and a brief tutorial on how sheepskin differs from acrylic pile lining. Plus a spread on the MA-1, complete with photo of Kanye wearing one in sage.
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    Toggle coat question.............

    These coats were Royal Navy issue, in four weird sizes ranging from roomy to gargantuan, to fit over other clothing. In the UK they are often called the Monty, after General Sir Bernard Law Montgomery, who wore one prominently (below). Another name is the Duffel coat, supposedly because the...
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    Were there no 6'2" people born before the 1950's?

    I've read this thread with interest, particularly the earlier anthropological/political comments. I'm reminded that when Terence Malick made "The thin Red Line"-- a world war II film set in the Pacific-- the costume designer bought a bunch of wartime era surplus Marine Corps uniforms, then found...
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    1930s/40s Leather Jacket pics

    Amazing to see a Robert Hall label. In the early Sixties they were a New York area chain clothier that had cavernous stores devoted to outfitting proper young boys and men. I'm amazed that they ever sold horsehide jackets.
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    Introducing my latest Aero Jacket - Brown FQHH Route 66

    Just to help those of us who don't know the Aero catalogue that well, the Rt 66 is similar to the Bootlegger, but with bi-swing back and cuff belts, correct?
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    Size help - Cooper A2

    I have two Nineties Cooper A2s-- one an orange-label commercial, the other a military. My experiences are: Both are cut very trim in the chest, as others have noted. Even the long sizes are none too long in the body. They ride up when lifting one's arms not because of the overall snugness...
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    Found the perfect vintage Schott...now I could really use some help with the smell...

    Is that the Costanza model D-Pocket? But seriously folks, I did not encounter excessive drying in my goatskin project despite several washings-- hard-finished (non sueded) leather seems to hold its "core" oil fairly well. In addition, as my tutorial elsewhere shows, I condition my washed...
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    Found the perfect vintage Schott...now I could really use some help with the smell...

    Washed in cold water and air dried, I have never encountered shrinkage. In fact, since I have a gorilla-style 37 inch sleeve, I often stretch sleeves an inch or so during drying by using a weighted sleeve method. In my efforts to FORCE shrinkage via use of hot water and forced air drying, I've...
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    Found the perfect vintage Schott...now I could really use some help with the smell...

    Hi Folks, Sigh. Another moldy/stinky/smoky jacket thread in which every remedy from fabreze to ionic generators is proposed, while the obvious one is poo poohed. I'm now up to at least 45 vintage jackets washed-- including a Seventies G-1 clone yesterday-- with zero casualties. You can search...
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    LUFTWAFFE jackets - Eagles who Dare to Wear..!

    Lighter side indeed. The joke is that Hitler might have escaped to Argentina, and a few years later been asked by the other Nazi expats to lead a new Fourth Reich. He would then have replied, "yes, but on one condition: no more Mr. nice guy..."
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    LUFTWAFFE jackets - Eagles who Dare to Wear..!

    "With their mania for black leather, brass buttons, medals, and armbands, the Nazis proved as bold in their fashions as they were brutal on the battlefield. The German uniform style during the Nazi period was so eccentric that the American novelist Kurt Vonnegut (1922–) called it "madly...
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    What do I have? Windward? Civilian G-1? G-2?

    It's almost certainly a Chevignon-- which by the way was not a shabby mall jacketeer, but rather one of the early high-gfrade jacket makers, and worthy of special attention. They never made contract repros, but they built to a very high standard. Still in b usiness today, by the way. I have...
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    Topcoat Conversions?

    I have converted exactly one long coat-- but it was a charcoal cashmere single breasted like yours. I brought it up from mid calf to a length about 3 inches longer than a suit. Came out great, but my recommendation is that you need to really slim it down to get the right "London topcoat"...
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    affordable a-1 jacket

    I have a Landing leathers/Airborne Leather A1, bought to evaluate the A1 concept before a larger investment. Though I have not done the photography for a review, here's a short form review: Price Paid: $119 (Amazon on Sale) Fit: Blousy in mid-section for my 34-inch waist. Trimmed down by my...
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    affordable a-1 jacket

    FYI: I will shortly be posting a not-gushing review of the Landing Leathers A1. So strike that from your list.
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    Fit /measurement question

    As a collector of vintage jackets, some observations on shoulders: 1. Many 70s-80s jackets put the shoulder seam halfway down the bicep, so seam-to-seam measurements are often of limited value. If it feels comfortable, doesn't fall off the shoulder, and does not restrict movement, it probably...
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    D-Pocket leather jackets

    No, just a Lancer-fronted, waist-length, waist-belted, snap-collared, epauletted black jacket with a mid-chest slash pocket and a snapdown small auxiliary pocket. In other words, sharing all the attributes of a Schott, Buco, Lewis Leathers, Langlitz, or H-D "civi" jacket.
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    D-Pocket leather jackets

    Re cops not wearing perfecto-style patrol jackets:

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