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I need suit advice.
Okay, I mean this without sarcasm. You have two choices really, one is to regain some weight (which I assume you'd rather not do); second, is to have some alterations done, which will improve the fit somewhat, but may turn out costly and not turn out ideal. Things like taking in the jacket are...- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #19
- Forum: Suits
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Long time lurker asking for advice!
Then maybe that one is the 'odd' button.- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #9
- Forum: Suits
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Long time lurker asking for advice!
Or the other three buttons were lost and non-matching replacements sewn on? It's likely at one point they were all cloth-covered buttons.- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #7
- Forum: Suits
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I need suit advice.
That means, unfortunately, that you have more than one suit that needs the same attention. It may not have been a good idea to lay out the cash for three suits prior to researching fit!- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #16
- Forum: Suits
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Long time lurker asking for advice!
There's a lot of machine work on it, including the undercollar and other places where it would have been done by hand at such an early date, with machine work reserved for less visible work - something true even of early ready-to-wear. Is this not a skilled reproduction? Perhaps even an older...- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #4
- Forum: Suits
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Show us your British suits
'Factory' needs to be put into perspective though. At least up to the 1960s these places were factories only in the sense of scale. They contained actual skilled cutters and tailors and very skilled seamstresses. A lot of these were cutters and tailors who went there because they could earn more...- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #964
- Forum: Suits
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Terms Which Have Disappeared
In England people used to say "belt up" as in 'shape yourself and give it a rest' (when a person was being tiresome). My grandad used to say that certain people needed a "good punch up the bracket".- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #2,226
- Forum: The Golden Era
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I need suit advice.
You don't want to be hemming suit trousers on a sewing machine.- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #9
- Forum: Suits
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I need suit advice.
Depends what you think "right" is. In my opinion the suit is somewhat too large. The inseam of the trousers is noticeably long (or you need to pull them up a tad!) and the collar gapes on the right hand side - may be too large in the shoulder and it is sitting on your low shoulder. The armhole...- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #2
- Forum: Suits
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The Thread to Display 1950s Suits
This is very true. I came back from work early a few weeks ago and passed a 2nd hand shop on my way to the supermarket. In the window there was a wedding dress and a morning coat. It was not a very good example, but inside on the rack between the bagged-out old coats was a nice morning coat made...- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #80
- Forum: Suits
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Leather Buttons
Probably older than even the 19th century. They are fundamentally no different than monkey-fist knot buttons seen on Chinese garments.- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #2
- Forum: Suits
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Terms Which Have Disappeared
Well...the world isn't made convenient for touchy subcultures. Which is at it should be.- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #2,211
- Forum: The Golden Era
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How many suits do you own?
I have six suits. Three for autumn/winter (and possibly spring): grey flannel, brown herringbone and blue heavy wool. For summer three linen summer suits: one in dark blue for the evening, one tobacco shade and a cream (worn only occasionally). The rest is odd clothes.- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #123
- Forum: Suits
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Freedom of Arm Movement
In the case of Connery's suit it's not really an issue that needs fixing. If a person isn't normally head forward the coat is made for a normal posture; when such a person stoops or puts his head forward, there'll be a temporary gap. The coat can't be made to fit all movements. It's only when...- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #12
- Forum: Suits
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Freedom of Arm Movement
There are lots of cases of photos or films where Cary Grant - also considered one of the golden era dressers - has a collar gap. In From Russia with Love, during the train scene, Sean Connery - in his Sinclair bespoke suit no less - has a collar gap at times. The reason is that he is tilting his...- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #10
- Forum: Suits
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Favorite shaving soaps
Quite some time back I started buying Arko shave sticks. They are Turkish-made and still have a very traditional foil and paper packaging which seems to have never been updated since the mid-1950s. It lathers very well indeed and has a superior glide, not bad for 1.25 (euros) a pop. Easily...- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #18
- Forum: The Connoisseur
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Do you hide your modern conveniences ?
Two dish washers? Is it a hotel?- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #14
- Forum: Your Vintage Home
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Ok, so some things in the golden era were not too cool...
Are we to blame then the poorly researched histories for women still believing that men run the entire show?- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #1,298
- Forum: The Golden Era
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Do you hide your modern conveniences ?
No refrigerator (at least one that isn't a menace to the environment)? There's nothing wrong with a few modern devices.- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #11
- Forum: Your Vintage Home
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Ok, so some things in the golden era were not too cool...
Not much change though. Neither in the thirties nor much later were there women in prominent positions. A woman working in the media would have been an actress, a lightweight announcer, a 'script girl' a costume mistress etc. Very few producers or directors or executive positions. Famous...- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #1,294
- Forum: The Golden Era
