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  1. Dirk Wainscotting

    Do you hide your modern conveniences ?

    I try to blend them by choosing appliances that fit in well. The microwave is brushed steel and doesn't look too out of place - it's a combi-oven so I use it quite a lot for baking as well as steaming vegetables (best method ever). Coffee grinder is a still-working 1960s model and I also have a...
  2. Dirk Wainscotting

    Terms Which Have Disappeared

    What's offensive about it?
  3. Dirk Wainscotting

    Terms Which Have Disappeared

    True. Decline of general manners disguised as 'informality'.
  4. Dirk Wainscotting

    Terms Which Have Disappeared

    I say variations like 'Jesus wept!' or 'Christ on a bike!' quite a lot. I'm not that bothered about whether it's PC or not.
  5. Dirk Wainscotting

    Who Are Your Favorite Golden Era Vocalists?

    Very surprised to see Greta Keller not mentioned...
  6. Dirk Wainscotting

    What are you listening to?

    Currently listening (again) to the entire run of Beyond Our Ken - precursor to Round The Horne - a classic 1950s British comedy from the old BBC Light Programme. Features Kenneth Williams at his manic best!
  7. Dirk Wainscotting

    Anyone with a corduroy lined jacket?

    Lightweight corduroy, the sort used for corduroy shirts/unlined shirt jackets, would likely work, though it would probably be best to use the wrong side rather than the pile side in the sleeves because it's a lot smoother.
  8. Dirk Wainscotting

    Freedom of Arm Movement

    Well of course the gaping collar - especially at the sides, with a squarish appearance - is often a result of a collar made on the flat with some attempted shaping after or just before attachment. That will look bad even if the rest of the coat fits adequately. A high armhole does more than half...
  9. Dirk Wainscotting

    Freedom of Arm Movement

    It's the armhole depth (specifically it being not too low) that keeps the collar on your neck. In bespoke - and more commonly in the past when a greater variety of garments were made - the sleeve pitch would be positioned to reflect a coat's function. For example, a chauffeur's coat would take...
  10. Dirk Wainscotting

    Double Breast button second row alteration

    It matters how much 'belly' is on the bottom of the lapel. If the lapel is cut with a lot of belly the front edge at that point bows out and raising the roll doesn't work. If the fronts are also properly canvassed etc, then there is also a taped roll line determining the length of the roll...
  11. Dirk Wainscotting

    Show us your British suits

    It should be remembered that prior to the 1950s (and a bit later) people didn't 'upgrade' their clothing quite as rapidly as nowadays. The selective photographic record of people wearing the natty fashions of a particular decade doesn't represent the general population by any means. There will...
  12. Dirk Wainscotting

    How much cloth is required to make a suit?

    2.5 metres, or just under 3 yards.
  13. Dirk Wainscotting

    Vintage Suitings: Discussions of, and sourcing modern equivalents, etc.

    The traditional waistband canvas (for classic trousers before the 1970s) has always been the canvas that is now called 'French canvas' and currently used almost exclusively for collars. This is still available at trimming houses. However, in leaner times (like e.g. the second world war period)...
  14. Dirk Wainscotting

    Show Us Vintage GERMAN Suits

    German waistcoats (up to at least the 70s, maybe later) have interesting variations; different from the standard SB, no collar four pockets cut of many English suits. The fifth flapped 'ticket pocket' turns up quite frequently, as do double-breasted-no-collar cuts.
  15. Dirk Wainscotting

    1920s party

    What ho! Long-time lurker, but I decided this is the best place to ask for input. I'm going to a 1920s-themed summer garden party and wondered if anyone had any ideas about what to wear. I have a rack of suits of different kinds, though the oldest ones I have (from about the late ' 30s) are...

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