I would say if he designs the pattern based on your measurements, cuts the leather, etc., based on the pattern, and assembles it, yeah, that sounds bespoke to me. And I agree that most of the good design concepts are likely already 'out there' and most would start with an already existing...
My understanding is that altering an existing pattern (no matter how many elements you add/modify) is at best a 'made to measure' exercise. When you order a modified "Highwayman", for example, you are basing your jacket on an already existing pattern. True bespoke is creating a pattern...
Thought this might interest some of the leather jacket aficionados on the forum. A natural evolution of RTW to 'made to measure' leather jackets would be 'bespoke.' I'm not aware of many bespoke leather jacket makers out there; but this may stimulate research for those who are interested...
I'm interested in a jacket but I can't seem to find swatches available online to see:
Black, brown, cordovan, cherry, vintage black, vintage brown, oil-pull brown.
Hopefully there's a link available with these swatches available; otherwise it's slogging through the web to find particular...
My understanding re: Renapur is that it is not made to be used with aniline leather. Per their website: "Renapur Leather Balsam, Leather Cleaner and Hi-Shine are for use on finished i.e. smooth leather only. Do not use on suede, nubuck or fully aniline type leather." So this would rule out...
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