Who makes a good pea coat these days?

[Daniel Hunter]

I've been searching for a few days now and it seems like there are dozens and dozens on the market right now.

Who makes a good one?

I thought Schott might be a good choice. After reading numerous complaints of holes in pockets and buttons falling off now I'm not so sure.

What about Alpha? I know their leather jackets aren't the greatest but can they do a decent pea coat?

Filson just started making one but it's only available in gray diagonal.

Ideally I'd like to find one in black. It doesn't have to be mil. spec. just not garbage that I'll regret buying later.

Any help would be appreciated...thank you.

 

[OneEyeMan]

Here we go again.
If you want the absolute top quality in a peacoat, buy vintage.
See this thread: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?35824-PEACOAT-DATING
Also, a search of this forum will turn up more than you'd be able to read in a week.
Lenny

 

[AngryNJ]

I own a 32oz wool Schott pea coat. I cant compare it to vintage since I dont own a vintage one. The talk of buttons falling off Schott I think is specific to a leather peacoat they make, but I could be wrong. The buttons seem pretty secure on mine. Its very warm and so far I am happy with it. Keep in mind that on the site, you would need to get the 32oz wool version. THey have a slim fit one that is not 32oz and some others that are not 32oz.

 

[Doctor Strange]

We have discussed current-manufacture pea coats a lot over the years. For example, on this thread:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?43724-Schott-or-Stirlingwear-of-Boston-Pea-Coat

A well-constructed search in Outerwear will undoubtedly come up with more.

From what I've seen, Schott, Sterlingwear, and Fidelity all make good coats - and they're still made in the USA. Imported coats from Alpha, etc., are typically a notch down in quality.

And I recommend that you don't go for S-M-L sizing: these coats are all differently (if not strangely) sized, and you'll likely do better getting the right fit in numbered sizes and Short and Tall variations...

As always, I recommend the Barre Army-Navy Store for excellent prices and great service - their $95 Fidelity 10-button model is a good bet:

http://shop.vtarmynavy.com/pea-coats-c54.aspx

 

[Peacoat]

I think what Lenny means is that we have been down this road many times before. The topic has been discussed, but never debated. Why? Because there is no room for debate. The vintage peacoats are far superior to the current issue peacoat. And the current issue peacoat is superior to most, and perhaps all, of the peacoat inspired civilian fashion garments.

Our Head Bartender, Scotrace, was kind enough to merge all of the peacoat threads on the Lounge into one Mega Peacoat thread. It is found in the link below. This is the thread started by Matt Jones back in August, 2005. There is some mis-information found on the first 1 1/2 pages of the thread, up until January, 21, 2006. After that date, most of the information is accurate. I haven't read all of the threads Scotrace assimilated into the mega thread, so I can't vouch for the accuracy of all of the information. But I do think that after 1/21/06 most of the information is accurate.

When you finish reading all that the Lounge has to offer on peacoat information, report back; you will be tested. This assignment isn't for the faint of heart.

Actually the only reading that is mandatory for the prospective peacoat buyer is the link Lenny posted. The link I posted is for the hardcore aficionado who can't get enough information. After you have read the article on Peacoat Dating, send me a PM with your email address, and I will help you find a peacoat. I prefer not to do it by PM as my box is always at the limit, and I have to purge messages constantly. Good luck. Ron.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?35997-Questions-About-the-United-States-Navy-Peacoat

Edit Note: Dr. Strange posted while I was typing the above message. He is exactly right about the big three of domestic pea coat companies and the imports. He is also correct about the strange results obtained when S, M, and L sizing are used.

 

[Corto]

While I would never contradict Peacoat regarding the quality of vintage peacoats over new ones, I have to say I've owned a (new, civilian-market) Schott 740N for years now and have never been dissatisfied with the quality. One of these days I'll go pro and get a vintage peacoat, but for now, I swear by my Schott- and I've worn in all kinds of horrible winter weather.

 

[Doctor Strange]

Nobody here is suggesting that the vintage coats aren't better - indeed, much better - than the current ones. But the OP was asking about currently made coats.

Sometimes you just want to buy new. And really, vintage isn't for everyone: some of us have no desire to get a used garment, no matter how great the condition/quality is. I know that folks squarely in the vintage camp don't always understand that, but hey, it takes all kinds to make a world...

 

[Daniel Hunter]

Thank you for trying to get this thread back on track.....

I'm only interested in newly manufactured coats that are currently available.

 

[scotrace]

Thank you for trying to get this thread back on track.....

I'm only interested in newly manufactured coats that are currently available.

And the links above will give you lots of information.

 

[Aether]

Hi Daniel,

Buzz Rickson make a nice 10 Button jacket. I tried one on the other day and it was very nice, well made and a quality heavy cloth, but personally I couldn't justify that price. You could have a few mint vintage jackets for the same.

Link: http://www.historypreservation.com/hpassociates/detailpop.php?uniqnum=292

 

[ButteMT61]

Sizes 34-44 only ugh! Lord I hate getting excited about clothing just to find they only tailor to average/small sized humans.

Hi Daniel,

Buzz Rickson make a nice 10 Button jacket. I tried one on the other day and it was very nice, well made and a quality heavy cloth, but personally I couldn't justify that price. You could have a few mint vintage jackets for the same.

Link: http://www.historypreservation.com/hpassociates/detailpop.php?uniqnum=292

 

[CC-1]

You aren't missing anything when you pass on the Buzz Rickson version.
I have tried on three and they are almost a caricature of the original- a disappointment at any price.
BTW, what's the big deal about buttons falling off if the rest of the coat is nice? Get them sewn on right.
The new Sterlingwear coats use machines to sew buttons on and they are quite susceptible to unravelling.

 

[JakeHolman]

Hey CC-1, interesting you should say that about the BZ. I've got couple of BZ sweatshirts which are great and have been tempted by the pea coat. Would you mind explaining a bit further about why you think its a 'caricature of the original'? Thanks

You aren't missing anything when you pass on the Buzz Rickson version.
I have tried on three and they are almost a caricature of the original- a disappointment at any price.
BTW, what's the big deal about buttons falling off if the rest of the coat is nice? Get them sewn on right.
The new Sterlingwear coats use machines to sew buttons on and they are quite susceptible to unravelling.

 

[Aether]

Hey CC-1, interesting you should say that about the BZ. I've got couple of BZ sweatshirts which are great and have been tempted by the pea coat. Would you mind explaining a bit further about why you think its a 'caricature of the original'? Thanks

Jake, if you like Buzz stuff you should check out American Classics in Covent Garden. They've got a nice little selection of their stuff along with some ELC jackets and various other bits of goodness. But then I'm sure you probably already know this...

 

[CC-1]

Hey CC-1, interesting you should say that about the BZ. I've got couple of BZ sweatshirts which are great and have been tempted by the pea coat. Would you mind explaining a bit further about why you think its a 'caricature of the original'? Thanks

For a while I, too, was seduced by the glowing descriptions of the BR coat to the point where I took a trip to NYC's Orchard Street to eyeball one for myself. With my my stock 1981 Sterlingwear as a reference and wife as a soundingboard/critic I tried on three coats in two sizes.
In no particular order, BZ coats were:
generally stiff and unconforming to the body
too short, irrespective of size
lackluster wool caste, unappealing hand
poor workmanship- lining improperly sewn with haphazard folds
Button fastened through pocket
Overall my crummy melton coat had more style and panache, even the salesperson reluctantly agreed. That's a pathetic pill for someone who had a Dale Fashions Kersey issued to him in 1968 and kept it for 25+ years.
All that stuff about the original looms being obtained and scrupulous details producing a faithful copy is just hype. The BZ coat misses and so I passed. Lucky I did because here's the clincher:
I subsequently finessed a mint 1944 coat, neck (inspection) tag and all. NO competition from BR. Great fit, feel and classy look. To conclude, the BR coat is just a copy, all technical detail maybe, (faults aside) but no synergy. Check for yourself.
Lastly, BR, like many other marques, has become a phenomenon unto itself. The brand's purported reputation and desireability has actually outstripped the original it was intended to exalt. An ELC, BR and Toys branded products have more cache than the real thing they reproduce.