White Tie - Double striped trousers

[geo]

So, what thread should be used when stitching the side stripes to the trousers? Cotton thread or silk thread? I think that silk is best, because cotton would be too visible against the silk background of the stripe. Or, should one use cotton on dinner jacket trousers, because they are less formal, and silk for tails trousers, to account for the higher formality level? I'm confused.

 

[manton]

So, what thread should be used when stitching the side stripes to the trousers? Cotton thread or silk thread? I think that silk is best, because cotton would be too visible against the silk background of the stripe. Or, should one use cotton on dinner jacket trousers, because they are less formal, and silk for tails trousers, to account for the higher formality level? I'm confused.

The way it is normally done, you don't see the stitch -- it's on the inside. Silk thread is typically used for the hand sewing of curved seams, like armholes. A straight machined seam like a trouser outseam is likely to be done with cotton thread.

 

[Happy Stroller]

My book is actually being translated into Chinese, if you can believe that. It's the only foreign rights I've sold so far.

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Yes, Manton, I really like your book. In fact, read it over and over again several times.

Regarding the blazer, not only could I not figure out what was serge, so were hopsack and fresco another two cloths of unknown familiarity to me.

I do look forward to the distribution of The Suit in Chinese. There are many sartorial words which I wish I knew their Chinese equivalent. Using the Chinese edition in parallel with the English edition should be a great help towards improving my knowledge of Chinese so that I can communicate with the Shanghainese clothiers much more effectively.

So, when can we expect the Chinese edition to be out?

 

[Happy Stroller]

Quote:Originally Posted by Marc Chevalier
When it comes to being "comrades in the Revolution", I'm more a Menshevik than a Bolshevik. Extremism of any kind repels me.

Well, no worries, then. There won't be a revolution. And if there were, the people trying to restore classic dress would all end up on the guillotine.

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Eventually, the Mensheviks won out w/o going to the guillotine because none were available, I think, by the time the Berlin Wall crumbled. That's why good ol' Marc is still around.

The same for the unfinished revolution in China. When the Chinese edition of The Suit comes out, the great restoration of the classic dress in China will occur w/o people going to the guillotine, save for the Madame Tussuade museum in Beijing. We all know to hold who responsible when China becomes the largest sartorial colony of England.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

If I didn't know better, Happy Stroller, I'd say that you're my friend Nathan Marsak in disguise ...

.

 

[Happy Stroller]

If I didn't know better, Happy Stroller, I'd say that you're my friend Nathan Marsak in disguise ...

.

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Sorry, Marc, I'm not that chap. Clue, I am a true blue Chinaman if you haven't figured out that one yet.

 

[Happy Stroller]

I've examined my double striped trousers. It's definitely two ribbons, the ribbons are sewn on either side of the seam and have a satin band facing the seam. The pockets are along the seam of the trousers and the ribbon runs up the edge of hte pocket. I like this, it's actually a nice touch. If your hadns aren't in them, you'd never know they were there.

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Hi, Wing Nut
Can you see the threads on the face of the satin stripes on both edges of the same stripe?

 

[Happy Stroller]

Does anyone have a picture of the double stripe? I've a pair of formal trousers I suspect are double stripe but have no way of verifying this without knowing exactly what to look for.

I have an absolutely incredible double-breasted late '30s Bond Clothiers tux with single-stripe trousers. It's just a simple grosgrain ribbon about 1/2" wide going up the side seam.

The other pair of trousers, on the other hand, has a thick cord in the middle, with a ribbon on either side. Never gave it much thought, I simply figured it was a different style of hiding the seam. This thread has made me consider it more in depth.

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Wingman, can you see any stitching on the thick central cord? Are there one on each side that connect the cord to each of the two ribbons?

For the single stripe trousers, do you see any stitching on the face of the stripe next to each of the edges?

Do you have a double-striped trousers where the two ribbon stripes are separated by the cloth material that is used for the pair of trousers itself?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

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I hope the following photos will resolve the stripe-placement controversy once and for all.




Note the placement of the double stripes on this pair of tailcoat trousers:

Now, here is a pair of dinner jacket trousers:

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[Tomasso]

Photoshopped?

I hope the following photos will resolve the stripe-placement controversy once and for all.
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Photoshopped? [bad]

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Nope. Taken from the eBay auctions of a British fellow, whose i.d. is "hogspear". Check it out.

.

 

[Happy Stroller]

Well, now I'm even more confused than ever because it appears the dinner jacket trousers shows double stripes too!

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Not exactly. The dinner jacket trousers have a wee bit of embellishment on the stripe. This was common on European evening trousers. Note that the tailcoat trousers have literally two different, parallel strips of fabric sewn onto each leg.


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[Noble Savage]

Does anyone have a picture of the double stripe? I've a pair of formal trousers I suspect are double stripe but have no way of verifying this without knowing exactly what to look for.

Ede and Ravenscroft now sells ready-to-wear double braid evening trousers, pictured above.

http://shop.edeandravenscroft.com/collections/formal-dress/products/evening-trousers-double