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Which leather for an Aero Premier Halfbelt?

MrProper

I'll Lock Up
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4,361
Location
Europe
If I were to do a 1930 halfbelt I'd ask for grainy chestnut badalassi. I had Tobacco badalassi on another jacket and it was the most vivid color of any leather I've seen. Mine came completely smooth though so I would specify grainy this time. Chestnut didn't exist when I ordered mine and I probably would have ordered that since it seems quite a few shades darker than tobacco. The squeeks didn't bother me, but they were most difinately there.
At least on the website of aero I have not seen chestnut. But I think because of the squeak Badalassi is out for me.
 

Spiney

One of the Regulars
Messages
223
Also, I got a heads-up that the jerky varies widely. Some batches are thick and grainy while others are rubbery and stretchy.
The (small ) sample I received wasn’t very special at all , my least favourite out of all my samples by a long way.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,723
Jerky is a very thick painted hide. I wouldn't associate that with luxury, more utility. It is softer than Vicenza though but it's combi tanned I believe instead of full veg. So it can take more beating but don't look as luxury.

The Badalassi squeaks but I think it can become quiet with wear. I will report back after this winters wears. The squeak has to come from the friction which is surface only so once that mellowed out the sounds should stop. Like a new leather sofa or car seat. This is just my theory. I need time to find out more.

Out of the entire leather options at Aero, Badalassi is by far the most premium choice. The grain the heft the depth of colors is hardly matched by any other Aero's leather offers. Yes it's only steerhide and yes it squeaks when its new. But I think the squeak can be tamed. So that just leaves to the fact that it's just steerhide. No it's not as dense as horsehide but it's also a lot easier to wear and looks a lot better than most horsehides. And even the black Badalassi has a shine that comes from within the hide, not on the surface. Something only found on very premium aniine dyed horsehides.

If you can wait out the winter I can have time to report back on the squeak issue over time. The russet is the least squeaky one, then black, then the chestnut and tobacco are both squeakiest in my experience. I am quite certain this ain't the only time Aero will run that sale promo so don't get sucked into the FOMO like I did. Badalassi is a keeper for sure.

IMG_6897.JPG
 

Pandemic

One Too Many
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1,503
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In The Flat Field
Jerky is a very thick painted hide. I wouldn't associate that with luxury, more utility. It is softer than Vicenza though but it's combi tanned I believe instead of full veg. So it can take more beating but don't look as luxury.

The Badalassi squeaks but I think it can become quiet with wear. I will report back after this winters wears. The squeak has to come from the friction which is surface only so once that mellowed out the sounds should stop. Like a new leather sofa or car seat. This is just my theory. I need time to find out more.

Out of the entire leather options at Aero, Badalassi is by far the most premium choice. The grain the heft the depth of colors is hardly matched by any other Aero's leather offers. Yes it's only steerhide and yes it squeaks when its new. But I think the squeak can be tamed. So that just leaves to the fact that it's just steerhide. No it's not as dense as horsehide but it's also a lot easier to wear and looks a lot better than most horsehides. And even the black Badalassi has a shine that comes from within the hide, not on the surface. Something only found on very premium aniine dyed horsehides.

If you can wait out the winter I can have time to report back on the squeak issue over time. The russet is the least squeaky one, then black, then the chestnut and tobacco are both squeakiest in my experience. I am quite certain this ain't the only time Aero will run that sale promo so don't get sucked into the FOMO like I did. Badalassi is a keeper for sure.

View attachment 452639

I’d love to know how that mellows with time! The shine, the patina and the squeak.
 

MrProper

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,361
Location
Europe
I think the leather question is slowly clearing up. This morning I wanted to reach for the Ridley/Vicenza again (although I always wore this the last few days) and then forced myself to take another one. Lol
It has then become the 2 mm HH, which was surprisingly cool and reminded me of my CXL. Stiff and cold when it's cold outside.
As a result, I decided that the new jacket will not be a CXL.
And after I like dark seal from the color better than seal jerky, as it will probably Vicenza. However, I will first ask one or two questions about the current stock of Vicenza and Jerky at Aero and then choose accordingly.
 

nattevagten

A-List Customer
Messages
326
I am Italian from Napoli, and I have to be honest: I would not have chosen Vicenza leather even for patriotic spirit.
Vicenza seemed to me too uniform in appearance and too thin in thickness. It also gave me an impression of synthetic material.

Agreed. The plastic feel and the printed (or grain-corrected) look of Vicenza are quite off-putting. I recently ordered my premier-jacket in CXL FQHH. Hope it will turn out good.
 
Last edited:

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,082
Location
London, UK
What lining and hardware did you choose?

I'm thinking of using moleskin for the lining and the universal zippers.
But not sure if the Lochcarron Tartan Wild Card (no extra charge) might be better.

Also, I am considering rust or cream stitching.

The moleskin will be more moth-resistant, if that matters. IME, it's also warmer than most lighter linings; for me, it would take the blanket wool lining to be warmer than moleskin. The latter is surprisingly warn for its weight; when I had my Bootlegger made in 2010, it came with moleskin-lined sleeves - I had not specced any sleeve lining specifically, just the tartan wool body. The sleeve moleskin made it noticeably warmer on the arms than the drill in other jackets, indeed, I was about to wear some of the others for a few weeks more into the warmer end of the year than the Bootlegger because of that (and, in the reverse, the Bootlegger longer into the cooler weather in early Winter).
 

Pandemic

One Too Many
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1,503
Location
In The Flat Field
What lining and hardware did you choose?

I'm thinking of using moleskin for the lining and the universal zippers.
But not sure if the Lochcarron Tartan Wild Card (no extra charge) might be better.

Also, I am considering rust or cream stitching.

I ended-up playing it fairly safe, with brass Talon hardware, olive stitching and black sateen lining.

I LOVE the look of rust stitching on dark seal Vic. I was just afraid it would look too ‘busy’ around the D pocket on mine.

I was also very tempted to get a blackened brown Vic and use brown stitching, zipper tape, pocket bags and lining to visually bring out the brown tones. But, like you, I already have a jacket in that hide so couldn’t do a repeat.

I will always opt for a lightweight lining so I can get more wear out of a jacket in this mild climate, but if I lived somewhere colder I’d love to go with moleskin or corduroy.
 

Tom71

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,740
Location
Europe
What lining and hardware did you choose?

I'm thinking of using moleskin for the lining and the universal zippers.
But not sure if the Lochcarron Tartan Wild Card (no extra charge) might be better.

Also, I am considering rust or cream stitching.

I have olive stitching on my Org. Herc. It looks pretty elegant but (if that’s a „but“) makes the whole jacket look more brownish in colour.

591C9683-1845-4CDD-BDE7-8319A25D931A.jpeg
 

MrProper

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,361
Location
Europe
I have olive stitching on my Org. Herc. It looks pretty elegant but (if that’s a „but“) makes the whole jacket look more brownish in colour.

View attachment 452928
Many thanks.
Olive would definitely be my first choice, but I already have that on my blackened brown. In this respect, I thought of an alternative. I will look at a few more pictures on halfbelts and then see.
Still asked about chestnut badalassi. It's not offered on the site, but it is at thurston bros. So if it's not exclusive to thurston, I can imagine that too.
 

Observe

One Too Many
Messages
1,208
If it is any help I use Saphir Mink Oil lotion to remove the squeak from badalassi - seems to tame it v effectively….
Interesting tip. Does the lotion leave any residue or alter the appearance or hand of the leather by any significant amount?
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,723
I put some mink oil on my Badalassi jackets last night. All of them. I’ll take some photos and exact amount I used.
if the original squeaky noise was 10 on a scale 1 to 10 being the loudest. After mink oil it’s between 2 to 3. To be fair, most and all of my leather jacket when new, make some sounds in that low range.
The mink oil dulls the surface shine. It needs a quick brushing to bring the shine back. Same thing done with boots. I used the same horsehair shoe brush I used to brush my shoes.
 

Observe

One Too Many
Messages
1,208
I put some mink oil on my Badalassi jackets last night. All of them. I’ll take some photos and exact amount I used.
if the original squeaky noise was 10 on a scale 1 to 10 being the loudest. After mink oil it’s between 2 to 3. To be fair, most and all of my leather jacket when new, make some sounds in that low range.
The mink oil dulls the surface shine. It needs a quick brushing to bring the shine back. Same thing done with boots. I used the same horsehair shoe brush I used to brush my shoes.
I like this tip, because I like badalassi but the squeaking can be downright comical at times. I usually try to lean into it though.
 

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