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What makes a hat expensive?

Cheviot

New in Town
Messages
36
Location
Philadelphia, PA
I'll be the first to admit I'm ignorant about hats, aside from a very basic understanding of contraction techniques and materials.
While I understand what makes an expensive suit cost more than an inexpensive one, I don't have the same understanding about hats.

For instance:

Borsalino makes two very similar looking hats. One is the Classico, priced at about $350. The other is the Fortissima at $625. Both are seem to be beaver felt.

So, why is one nearly $300 more expensive than the other?
 

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,108
Location
San Francisco, CA
There's not going to be a nice, convenient answer.

With Borsalino, especially the modern ones, part of the expensive cost is riding on the reputation of the brand name.

One might also consider: the quality of leather in the sweatband, overall beaver content, wild vs domesticated fur, different finishing techniques which require more labor, better quality control with regards to the ribbon and tacking stitches.
 

Landman

One Too Many
Messages
1,751
Location
San Antonio, TX
I agree with Jared's explanation. I would add that if you were considering paying that much for a hat, have a custom made from one of the great custom hatters here on the lounge instead. You can get a 100% beaver hat that fits like a glove for less than $400.00 if you go the custom route.

I'd also like to add, that Borsalino is the most expensive wool hat I have ever seen!
 

The Wiser Hatter

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,765
Location
Louisville, Ky
Once you put a well made hat on your head you will know the difference. :) if you had both of these hats on a table and pick each up with your hands your fingers would tell you the difference.
 
Messages
17,549
Location
Maryland
I agree with Jared's explanation. I would add that if you were considering paying that much for a hat, have a custom made from one of the great custom hatters here on the lounge instead. You can get a 100% beaver hat that fits like a glove for less than $400.00 if you go the custom route.

I'd also like to add, that Borsalino is the most expensive wool hat I have ever seen!

They have a more expensive model. :)

http://www.ikkon.com/designers/borsalino/vicuna-fedora.html

Vicuna was also used for high price points hats back in the day. If you take a look at this old Austrian hat catalog you will see Beaver (Biber) - Loden blends!

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/134-alois-pichler-hut-niederlage-wien/
 
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Landman

One Too Many
Messages
1,751
Location
San Antonio, TX
Steve,

I have never held a Vicuna hat. I would think Vicuna wool would be a finer felt than regular wool. Is that correct or is the difference in how the hat is manufactured?
 
Messages
17,549
Location
Maryland
Vicuna is at the highest end (some were most likely blends). I haven't held one either. I believe Alan has a vintage one so he might chime in. Wool was usually at the lowest price point but that wasn't always the case (see Vicuna, Lodens, other luxury Euro Wool types, Wool - Fur Blends).
 
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Landman

One Too Many
Messages
1,751
Location
San Antonio, TX
I have seen pictures of Alan's hat and it is beautiful. I just never really thought Vicuna was similar to standard wool. It will be interesting to hear his response. Thanks.
 
Messages
17,549
Location
Maryland
Vicuna is a super high end luxury wool. I am sure some were also blends. For example see the Beaver - Wool blends mentioned in the old Austrian catalog. Who on here knew of such a thing?

Side Note: Die Hutmacherkunst: ein Handbuch für den Klein- und Grossbetrieb (By Carl Bortfeldt 1902) mentions Vicuna pelts (not sheared wool) which is interesting.
 
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Cheviot

New in Town
Messages
36
Location
Philadelphia, PA
I agree with Jared's explanation. I would add that if you were considering paying that much for a hat, have a custom made from one of the great custom hatters here on the lounge instead. You can get a 100% beaver hat that fits like a glove for less than $400.00 if you go the custom route.

Normally I'd take this advice, but the only reason I'm considering going with this hat, aside from liking both how it looks and feels, is that I wanted to match the exact hat I'd seen elsewhere. I've never spent over $350 for a hat before.
 

tommyK

One Too Many
Messages
1,789
Location
Berwick, PA
If you're thinking of a modern Borsalino check with Bencraft in Brooklyn first as they seem to have the best prices. I've bought several from them, great people. Otherwise, as others have said custom can be a whole other level.
 

Landman

One Too Many
Messages
1,751
Location
San Antonio, TX
Normally I'd take this advice, but the only reason I'm considering going with this hat, aside from liking both how it looks and feels, is that I wanted to match the exact hat I'd seen elsewhere. I've never spent over $350 for a hat before.

If you have a picture of the hat you want to reproduce then most of the hatters here can do an exact reproduction of it. Art Fawcett (Vintage Silohouettes) as done that for me on numerous hats. He also has a wide selection of colors and felt quality. I can't think of any new production hats I would pay that kind of money for instead of having a custom hat made. On the other hand, I can think of many vintage hats I would pay a lot of money for if they were in my size. :)

Good luck with whatever you decide!
 

Cheviot

New in Town
Messages
36
Location
Philadelphia, PA
If you're thinking of a modern Borsalino check with Bencraft in Brooklyn first as they seem to have the best prices. I've bought several from them, great people. Otherwise, as others have said custom can be a whole other level.

Thanks, but in this case Sean at Pork Pie Hatters has been assisting me and I'm going to give him the sale.
 
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Bold1972

New in Town
Messages
16
Location
Phoenix, AZ
1 part quality of parts( in this case felt body, ribbon, liner, sweat, etc.)
1 part labor
1 part expenses
1 part name brand
1 part greed

Add them all together and you have the factors that decide the cost of virtually any item.
 

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