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What Jacket Are You Wearing Today?

navetsea

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6,868
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East Java
Nat cowhide jacket
20201214_150148.jpg
20201214_150251.jpg
 

MrProper

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4,340
Location
Europe
From this perspective this jacket (I guess it's your Field Leathers) looks tight but IMO perfect on you and don't know what you mean with struggling with the size.

Is it mainly the length or are there other issues?
Unfortunately the pattern doesn't match my stature/posture. It may be because the pattern matches the posture when riding a motorcycle. The rotation of the sleeves is too far forward for me. When I let my arms hang down, the sleeve pulls back and the part in front of the chest becomes tense. This creates permanent tension on the front of the shoulders. The tension can also be seen visually and is reinforced by the fact that the material above the breast pockets is not doubled, as is the case with the breast pockets.
The length is 2 cm too short for my pants style.
I've come to terms with the fact that I usually only wear the jacket open. Closed in the home office in the hope that the part above the breast pockets will stretch a bit ;)
And with my measurements the jacket is unsoldable lol

My normal posture:
C949B6F0-200E-4088-8311-61BAB9520CBD.jpeg

6B2078C3-7603-46C8-87B8-65AC7B379406.jpeg

5EBA3287-1F4C-441F-B4ED-7A764687682A.jpeg

Pattern friendly posture:
D03D7B1C-C155-4F41-A15D-76B6004A1BAB.jpeg

A88FEE7F-4ADF-4966-8A51-9AE206C487C0.jpeg



Damn I love this leather... such a pity that FL does not offer it anymore.
The leather is an absolute dream. Not too thick, but still a bit stiff, good grain, great smell, great color. Really amazing.
 

torfjord

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,792
Location
Sweden
Unfortunately the pattern doesn't match my stature/posture. It may be because the pattern matches the posture when riding a motorcycle. The rotation of the sleeves is too far forward for me. When I let my arms hang down, the sleeve pulls back and the part in front of the chest becomes tense. This creates permanent tension on the front of the shoulders. The tension can also be seen visually and is reinforced by the fact that the material above the breast pockets is not doubled, as is the case with the breast pockets.
The length is 2 cm too short for my pants style.
I've come to terms with the fact that I usually only wear the jacket open. Closed in the home office in the hope that the part above the breast pockets will stretch a bit ;)
And with my measurements the jacket is unsoldable lol

My normal posture:
View attachment 289409
View attachment 289406
View attachment 289410
Pattern friendly posture:
View attachment 289407
View attachment 289408



The leather is an absolute dream. Not too thick, but still a bit stiff, good grain, great smell, great color. Really amazing.

Ah, yes the tension is noticeable in the pictures. I know what you mean, my Brooks has that to some extent as well. Not so much that it becomes uncomfortable, but there is some noticeable tension when the arms are just hanging straight down.

I don’t think the length looks bad but if you’re not feeling confident with it, let me once again spread the gospel of Wrangler original cowboy cut jeans. They are high-waisted and super cheap. With them, that jacket would probably cover your belt. Comfortable as well. I bought mine on Amazon. Cheap enough to try out and if you don’t like them you’ve only lost like 40 euro.
 

Marc mndt

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Messages
7,320
It may be because the pattern matches the posture when riding a motorcycle. The rotation of the sleeves is too far forward for me. When I let my arms hang down, the sleeve pulls back and the part in front of the chest becomes tense. This creates permanent tension on the front of the shoulders.
This is something I recognize. With my FL jacket this is not as pronounced so it doesn't really show but when I put it on I feel exactly what you describe. I feel tension right here:
5EBA3287-1F4C-441F-B4ED-7A764687682A.jpeg


If you 'rotate' the jacket in this direction, the tension is relieved.
C949B6F0-200E-4088-8311-61BAB9520CBD.jpeg


What I've learned in my days when working in the bespoke suit business, is that this is caused by an incorrect sleeve pitch.
c650c3fe12c1057c0bc0206d6b85cd39.png



Same issue described here :

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/droopy-shoulder-rotated-sleeves.81229/#post-1911698
 

MrProper

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,340
Location
Europe
Ah, yes the tension is noticeable in the pictures. I know what you mean, my Brooks has that to some extent as well. Not so much that it becomes uncomfortable, but there is some noticeable tension when the arms are just hanging straight down.

I don’t think the length looks bad but if you’re not feeling confident with it, let me once again spread the gospel of Wrangler original cowboy cut jeans. They are high-waisted and super cheap. With them, that jacket would probably cover your belt. Comfortable as well. I bought mine on Amazon. Cheap enough to try out and if you don’t like them you’ve only lost like 40 euro.
Thank you for the tip. I found "my" jeans and I also have some of them that are cut a little higher ;)
8C50D332-908C-4325-85D2-30769881198C.jpeg

But maybe I'll try your recommondation eventually.
What I don't like about the high waist trousers is that they make my body look disproportionate. Legs too long, upper body too short. if I had shorter legs, it would be something else.
 

MrProper

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,340
Location
Europe
This is something I recognize. With my FL jacket this is not as pronounced so it doesn't really show but when I put it on I feel exactly what you describe. I feel tension right here:
View attachment 289411

If you 'rotate' the jacket in this direction, the tension is relieved.
View attachment 289412

What I've learned in my days when working in the bespoke suit business, is that this is caused by an incorrect sleeve pitch.
View attachment 289413


Same issue described here :

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/droopy-shoulder-rotated-sleeves.81229/#post-1911698
Exactly how you describe it.
I asked Greg if he could turn the sleeves a little. but he said that this is not possible due to the pattern.
I have the same problem with some suit jackets too.
So it will be more up to me than the cut ;)
On the other hand, I don't have the same with my other leather jackets. Perhaps the pattern is not well suited to being worn tightly.
 

Tom71

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,730
Location
Europe
Got home early from the office, got rid of tie and jacket for an update on Greg’s masterpiece.

As a side note, I do have the same issue with “sleeve pitch” as described earlier, so I don’t really wear the jacket closed. Doesn’t bug me much though (for me leather - unlike a suit - is never about “perfect fit”), and if the weather demands it, I can easily zip it up.

F53578DB-06D9-4372-97F9-C2470752F2DB.jpeg
 

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