What Hat Are You Wearing Today 1?

[blueAZNmonkey]

NorthWest Hats Again Today....for a few more days.

Camel with Brown bow. ADORE Mid Blue Suit Tom Ford Dark Havana Shades.


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Killer!

 

[tommyK]

Such a beauty, Tommy. Your bashing skills are unmatched.

Coming from "Basher of the Year" that is quite a compliment! As much as I love the diamond I endeavor to mix it up more in the future. Thank You!

Perry's hat today is an inspiration to do more centerdent/cattleman type style. I have a few I think I'll give them some headtime the next few days

Really digging that "Delta" today by the way. A new model name for Dobbs for me. Got a Playboy/Wanderer kind of vibe and your trademark deep diamond is a source of envy for me. I never feel like I have enough crown height to go that deep

 

[mmbarnes]

Neat to see... I'm guessing you've found the Lounge link to some other examples.

Is there some provenance that leads you believe it is from the 1930s?

Alan, I should not have stated that the hat WAS from the 1930s. Rather, I should have said that I suspected that it was from the 1930s.

Like a bonehead, in my pre-caffeinated mental condition, I overstated my certainty.

This morning, the 1930s and the hat were related in my mind because the only advertisements and other mentions of Bergen I found in old publications dated from the 1930s (in a Jewish community newspaper and high school yearbook).

The hat was made no earlier than 1934 based upon my understanding of the history of the United Hatters, Cap & Millinery Workers International Union (that's the union stamp in the hat) which was formed in that year. I attach a pic.

I have suspected 1930s (rather than 1940s) because of the dark sweatband and the crown label, rather than a liner. Both of those remind me of traits I believe that I recall seeing on 1930s Stetsons.l

Of course, I'm pretty much of a novice in hat history, so my thoughts and suppositions could be totally garbage.

In any event, thank you for asking the question about provenance. I don't like to state theories and assumptions as fact. Bad, poorly researched and documented "information" is not helpful. And I like to have my hat history as right as I can.

Sadly, there doesn't seem to be much Bergen Hatters info on the internet. Oh well... I'll keep looking.

Pics of a nifty matchbook as well as some of a campaign style hat that sold at auctions also are attached. The campaign hat's sweatband looks the same as the one on mine. Unfortunately, the auction information did not include dates. Oh well...

 

[FedOregon]

NorthWest Hats Again Today....for a few more days.

Camel with Brown bow. ADORE Mid Blue Suit Tom Ford Dark Havana Shades.


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Sweet, Sonero!

 

[FedOregon]

Throwback Thursday brings a wide swing in brims...

December 15, 2014, a black Bolognese Barbisio

a year later, a Stetson 5X Clear Beaver Quality:

Two great examples, Alan!

 

[Kuki]

Here is an interesting video (2001 but some parts seem older and in German) from Mayser (see below). I am not sure if they still have this department in Lindenberg (they moved production to Slovakia in 2011) but it's interesting to see the process plus making metal machine forms (this is for women's hats). Wood Blocks used by machines had to made to a different standard. Now most Felt Hats are machined formed. I know someone that can tell me more about the current situation.

I don't recall coming across any Mühlbauer men's vintage hats. I have some copies of "Österreichisch Hutmacher Zeitung" so I will take look through them.

What an amazing film Steve, really, I loved it. To think that in 2001 they were still making models in "sparterie" (willow), a material that has long since disappeared from the market and only exists as a shadow of what it once was, and then the whole process of making blocks, and to see that the hats are blocked by hand on the aluminium block (obviously on a contraption that releases steam and heat, but still...). And isn't it amazing how easy to do stuff looks when someone capable is doing it? Like sewing straw and having it stay so nicely flat, I can tell you right now, it is NOT easy. So thanks, you made my day!! In addition my favorite scene of "One, two, three" is the one where they're throwing unsuitable hats and hat boxes out of the window of the car, so I have a soft spot for Mayser... and curiously I just checked their website and it seems that their main business now is manufacturing technical foams, who would have thought...

 

[mayserwegener]

@mayserwegener - I am really intrigued by that CWN/Liberty hat now. The design on the liner does look Jugendstil/Art Nouveau, which could help with the dating. The Liberty logo on the sweatband features a lion and a unicorn, which are heraldic symbols of the United Kingdom, which would link it to England, hence my suggestion of Liberty's of London. You mention writing on the front of the sweatband, I'd be interested to see a close up picture of that if at all possible.

My Mühlbauer hat isn't from this year's collection, but it is modern. It is handmade in Vienna from really nice material though. Interesting you couldn't find mühlbauer in your directories as they have been around since 1903. I don't know if they just specialised in women's hats, the website isn't clear on that. I've never come across vintage men's Mühlbauer hats either though. Next time I'm in Vienna I'll have to scour the flea markets...

C.W.N "Liberty"

Yes you are definitely correct about the UK Heraldic symbols and the Jugendstil / Art Nouveau for dating. Also the components of the hat seem early 1900s maybe late 1800s. I tried to make out the writing but it has faded beyond recognition. What is interesting is that I have Hat Liner plates that came from Austria / Czech Republic that use the UK Lion and Unicorn heraldic symbols. For example Brüder Böhm (Wien, Neustitschein, Austria / after WWII Novy Jicin, Czechoslovakia) was fond of using them.

Here is a BB Liner Plate.

They also used English terms. Here is a B.B. "Bristol". If you scan down you will see some additional plates and hats.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/7-brüder-böhm-hutfabrik/page-2#entry1229

There other examples on my site but it would take me some time to search through them.

Mühlbauer

I am constantly searching for Austrian vintage men's hats but I don't believe I have come across a Mühlbauer hat (shop or hat brand). I will have to search again and see if I find anything. I will also check the copies I have of the Austrian Hat Makers News (they are pre 1940s). Your hat is really fantastic! If I had to guess the felt is from TONAK.

 

[Michael A]

We got a couple inches of snow yesterday afternoon. Red got freezing rain just south of my gps cord's. No precip here today so I picked my still new Penman custom steel fedora. Love this baby.

Great looking Penman. How long do you think it will take you to wear the new off of it?

Michael

 

[mmbarnes]

WHOA! Is this style called a "Coachman"? Anyway -- awesome, unique piece you have there.

Thanks Blue... It seems shorter than what I understand to be a coachman's hat.

Folks on the Lounge have suggested coachman's hat or that these were made for fraternal organizations. The wild colors of other examples in this thread http://www.thefedoralounge.com/index.php?threads/56804/ make me think of clowns or guys in zoot suits though.

Nifty.

Interestingly, as I have been at work and out and about today, I think that I have received more compliments on this hat than any of my other ones. Funny...

Be well.

 

[alanfgag]

Both spectacular, but do you know just how cool the Barbisio look is, Alan?! Of course, you were much younger in that shot...

Allan Dorian Gray?

Ha!... thanks. The only thing I have in common with Hurd Hatfield is a field of hats. It is a little painful to see the ravages of time from my earliest WHAYWT forum posts. The hats still look good, though.

 

[40Cal]

Coming from "Basher of the Year" that is quite a compliment! As much as I love the diamond I endeavor to mix it up more in the future. Thank You!

Perry's hat today is an inspiration to do more centerdent/cattleman type style. I have a few I think I'll give them some headtime the next few days

Really digging that "Delta" today by the way. A new model name for Dobbs for me. Got a Playboy/Wanderer kind of vibe and your trademark deep diamond is a source of envy for me. I never feel like I have enough crown height to go that deep

Thanks Tommy. I think I'm just nominated for the award. As the stars say, " just being nominated is award enough" . haha
I'd never heard of the "Delta" either. It's pretty much a Westward with a shorter brim. Definitely has the high crown going for it!

 

[alanfgag]

Alan, I should not have stated that the hat WAS from the 1930s. Rather, I should have said that I suspected that it was from the 1930s...

Not at all... it's a nice mystery piece. The parts (sweatband, ribbon, brim binding) seem to lean more towards 1950s than 1930s to me. But I could be all wet.

Often, the more we study the younger our hats get. It's a lovely reversal of the aging process. I am hoping to bottle it and sell it in the classifieds. ;^)

 

[mayserwegener]

What an amazing film Steve, really, I loved it. To think that in 2001 they were still making models in "sparterie" (willow), a material that has long since disappeared from the market and only exists as a shadow of what it once was, and then the whole process of making blocks, and to see that the hats are blocked by hand on the aluminium block (obviously on a contraption that releases steam and heat, but still...). And isn't it amazing how easy to do stuff looks when someone capable is doing it? Like sewing straw and having it stay so nicely flat, I can tell you right now, it is NOT easy. So thanks, you made my day!! In addition my favorite scene of "One, two, three" is the one where they're throwing unsuitable hats and hat boxes out of the window of the car, so I have a soft spot for Mayser... and curiously I just checked their website and it seems that their main business now is manufacturing technical foams, who would have thought...

When I recently visited Lindenberg I spoke to some people and they were very unhappy about Mayser moving production to Slovakia. I think Mayser still made good hats up to the time of this video. Their finest product was when they still had the main felt and hat factories in Ulm. In the late 1980s Mayser started a partnership with FEPSA. All the felt making machinery from Ulm was moved to Portugal and Mayser closed hat and felt production in Ulm (all hat production was moved to Lindenberg). Mayser Ulm made FEPSA into a top felt producer. Mayser diversified back in the 1960s and supposedly are solid financially. From what I was told that is why they are still able to have the hat business.

By the way a machine like this one is used to form men's (and some women's) felt hats.

http://www.hatmachines.com/pdf_englisch/5-313_6-313_10.pdf

I made that 1, 2, 3 movie clip seven years ago. Picks a Bowler!

 

[Kuki]

Fabulous Hat Kuki. And great looking scarf and coat to go with it. I would love to visit that hat store and maybe even grab and umbrella.
Michael

Thank you Michael, I'm sure you would love the shop (and the weather that goes with it). These umbrellas are remnants and all my googling has not yielded any results so they are not sold anymore, the latest changes in ownership at Borsalino have probably put an end to the production of these hat themed umbrellas. I'm going to love owning one (if Santa behaves).

That is an incredibly cool hat!

Thank you @40Cal !

Great hat, a real head turner! I think we all want Santa to bring us one of those umbrellas! Really cool!

There was a more masculine umbrella in the store too:

@Kuki... Fabulous!

Thank you!!

Thank you for the compliments everybody! I'm away for a few hours and I can't keep up with all the great hats everybody's wearing anymore!

@mayserwegener - I am really intrigued by that CWN/Liberty hat now. The design on the liner does look Jugendstil/Art Nouveau, which could help with the dating. The Liberty logo on the sweatband features a lion and a unicorn, which are heraldic symbols of the United Kingdom, which would link it to England, hence my suggestion of Liberty's of London. You mention writing on the front of the sweatband, I'd be interested to see a close up picture of that if at all possible.

My Mühlbauer hat isn't from this year's collection, but it is modern. It is handmade in Vienna from really nice material though. Interesting you couldn't find mühlbauer in your directories as they have been around since 1903. I don't know if they just specialised in women's hats, the website isn't clear on that. I've never come across vintage men's Mühlbauer hats either though. Next time I'm in Vienna I'll have to scour the flea markets...

@Kuki - those pictures put a smile on my face, thank you!

Now I'm hooked on that Liberty search too!! And happy to put a smile on your face!

 

[mmbarnes]

Not at all... it's a nice mystery piece. The parts (sweatband, ribbon, brim binding) seem to lean more towards 1950s than 1930s to me. But I could be all wet.

Often, the more we study the younger our hats get. It's a lovely reversal of the aging process. I am hoping to bottle it and sell it in the classifieds. ;^)

Thanks for those observations, Alan.

What do you look for in brim bindings to get a feel for age?

Yeah... We always want our hats to be old... more "venerable" and "historic".

This one and the weird Stetson presentation piece leave me confounded. I guess this is one of the universe's way of keeping this idiot in suspense. [emoji6]

Enjoy

 

[Celia]

C.W.N "Liberty"

Yes you are definitely correct about the UK Heraldic symbols and the Jugendstil / Art Nouveau for dating. Also the components of the hat seem early 1900s maybe late 1800s. I tried to make out the writing but it has faded beyond recognition. What is interesting is that I have Hat Liner plates that came from Austria / Czech Republic that use the UK Lion and Unicorn heraldic symbols. For example Brüder Böhm (Wien, Neustitschein, Austria / after WWII Novy Jicin, Czechoslovakia) was fond of using them.

Here is a BB Liner Plate.

They also used English terms. Here is a B.B. "Bristol". If you scan down you will see some additional plates and hats.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/7-brüder-böhm-hutfabrik/page-2#entry1229

There other examples on my site but it would take me some time to search through them.

Mühlbauer

I am constantly searching for Austrian vintage men's hats but I don't believe I come across a Mühlbauer hat (shop or hat brand). I will have to search again and see if I find anything. I will also check the copies I have of the Austrian Hat Makers News (they are pre 1940s). Your hat is really fantastic! If I had to guess the felt is from TONAK.

That is interesting about the lion and unicorn being used in Austrian hats as well. Those hat plates are great by the way. I have noticed that in Germany, English dress style is regarded as the epitome of sophistication by many, and now that you come to mention it, I have also seen English sounding names in modern German hats - I assume for that reason. I mentioned the writing on the sweatband because sometimes a good photograph and some tweaking of the contrast in photoshop helps decipher faded handwriting - it's worked for me in the past when studying old manuscripts.

Although they do make men's hats as well now, I think you are right about Mühlbauer concentrating on women's hats in the past, if these old adverts are anything to go by:

 

[blueAZNmonkey]

The wild colors of other examples in this thread http://www.thefedoralounge.com/index.php?threads/56804/ make me think of clowns or guys in zoot suits though.

Nothing wrong with zoot suits!

 

[ryan_289]

Throwback Thursday brings a wide swing in brims...

December 15, 2014, a black Bolognese Barbisio

a year later, a Stetson 5X Clear Beaver Quality:

that Stetson is awesome! What is the exact model?

 

[alanfgag]

A stop at Barcelona's oldest hat establiment "Sombrerería Mil" www.sombrereriamil.com

I love everything about this hat and post... including your signature green. Three thumbs up!

 

[mayserwegener]

That is interesting about the lion and unicorn being used in Austrian hats as well. Those hat plates are great by the way. I have noticed that in Germany, English dress style is regarded as the epitome of sophistication by many, and now that you come to mention it, I have also seen English sounding names in modern German hats - I assume for that reason. I mentioned the writing on the sweatband because sometimes a good photograph and some tweaking of the contrast in photoshop helps decipher faded handwriting - it's worked for me in the past when studying old manuscripts.

Although they do make men's hats as well now, I think you are right about Mühlbauer concentrating on women's hats in the past, if these old adverts are anything to go by:

That is interesting about the lion and unicorn being used in Austrian hats as well. Those hat plates are great by the way. I have noticed that in Germany, English dress style is regarded as the epitome of sophistication by many, and now that you come to mention it, I have also seen English sounding names in modern German hats - I assume for that reason. I mentioned the writing on the sweatband because sometimes a good photograph and some tweaking of the contrast in photoshop helps decipher faded handwriting - it's worked for me in the past when studying old manuscripts.

Although they do make men's hats as well now, I think you are right about Mühlbauer concentrating on women's hats in the past, if these old adverts are anything to go by:

I believe there are examples of the those symbols in some of the old German hats on my site. There is also Edward VII connection with PH. Möckel Homburg vor der Höhe the hat company that made the original Homburg Hat. You are absolutely correct about strong English influence on dress style but the Germans and Austrians won the Soft Felt Hat battle.

I will see if I can take better photos of the writing. I tried to tweak the ones I have but the results were poor.

The Mühlbauer ads are fantastic! Thanks for finding and posting them. I think you are correct about them concentrating on women's hats back in the day. I will post if I find anything.