What are your vintage wardrobe essentials?

[Metatron]

So I've been trying to 'streamline' my wardrobe, albeit unsuccessfully. So, let's assume you managed to get rid of the clutter in your wardrobe: What would remain? What are your essentials?

 

[Two Types]

I suppose I would have to look at it from the point of view of where you would start from if trying to build a 'vintage' wardrobe: 1xblack shoes/1xblack boots/1xbrown shoes/1xbrown boots/one shirt for each day of the week/a mix of ties in stripes, plaids and solids in colours to match any outfit/grey overcoat/black overcoat/British Warm overcoat/1xblue suit/1xgrey suit/1xdinner suit/1xyellow waistcoat/1xbeige waistcoat ...... an so it goes on!

I'm afraid the question is too tough. I can't imagine having to get rid of anything apart from clothes that don't fit, are worn out or just never get worn anymore. Also, no rational person would think that 'wardrobe essentials' include one vintage scarf for everyday of winter. However, I do - and I doubt that I am alone.

 

[herringbonekid]

i don't think there's such a thing as 'essentials'; if there were then we'd all just have 3 suits and one overcoat instead of 20 suits, 7 overcoats and so on.
unfortunately building a vintage wardrobe tends to lead to the accumulation of endless permutations and variations which seem to never satisfy the wearer. there's always something more to want !

 

[Mr. Garrulus]

i don't think there's such a thing as 'essentials'; if there were then we'd all just have 3 suits and one overcoat instead of 20 suits, 7 overcoats and so on.
unfortunately building a vintage wardrobe tends to lead to the accumulation of endless permutations and variations which seem to never satisfy the wearer. there's always something more to want !

That's true, you always get new ideas and inspiration from something/somewhere and eventually want different outfits for different occasions with different degrees of formality. When one outfit is complete another new one pops up in the mind or an alteration to the first one.

 

[dhermann1]

I sort of think in terms of having a good outfit for the main types of occasions. For every day wear I wear modern clothes, but always a vintage tie. Occasionally I'll mix in a vintage jacket or trousers, combined as well as I can with my contemporary clothes. For vintage events I have tried to have one nice vintage suit, (and I picked up a doozy last year), and a couple jacket/trouser combinations.
I have a couple of pairs of modern high waisted linen trousers that are great for summer events, and look good with my modern but old looking linen jacket. So, in other words, I guess that would mean a summer weight get up, involving linen.
And of course fedoras for every day wear, and a panama hat or boater for summer. I HIGHLY recommend a nice panama to any vintage enthusast.
Shoes. There are plenty of modern shoes with that vintage look. Allen Edmunds should pay the FL for all the plugs we give them. Again, for summer, if you can pick up a pair of spectators, they are super cool.
Finally, formal wear. If you find yourself needing a tux, vintage is the way to go. And, as has been often mentioned, when you own a vintage tux, you'll be surprised how often you can find an occasion to wear it. And guys, if you feel funny wearing a tux, get over it. It's fun. All the elements can be found on Ebay, if you're patient and know your size, fairly cheaply.
So I guess that's what I would call essentials.

 

[Evan Everhart]

I would start with a pair of medium to darker medium charcoal gray flannel trousers in a conservative cut and style (I always wear mine flat-fronted and trim).

One pair each of black, brown, tan, and cordovan/ox-blood coloured dress shoes, the black should be closed laced cap-toes to get the most mileage, the brown can be any style of non-loafer shoes, the tan can be anything (though I always like them in wing-tips), and the cordovan are the quintessential wing-tip. Aside from that, in the field of coordinating accessories, I suggest a pair of white suspenders with white leathers as they go with all the leathers, and also a black wallet, and a mahogany coloured wallet as it will go well with the cordovan, the tan, or the brown, especially if the leather is an exotic, such as lizard or crocodile or some such. Pig skin is also a great choice for a wallet, or high gloss quality polished calf.

One navy blue sport-coat or blazer to taste (hop-sacks or heavy worsteds are my favourites though hop-sacks are better year-round), possibly a tweed sports-coat (single-vented with hacked pockets and hopefully a roll-lapel and three buttons. I always like one in green if I can get it; though gold tones in herringbone are always appropriate if trite).

One charcoal gray suit in a heavy twill wool; three piece is best as it provides for variety, versatility, and a greater possibility of elegant understatement.

One navy blue pin-striped suit; three piece, peaked lapel. medium weight serge.

Three shirts, one pale blue, one white, one lilac stripe, all moderately spread collar models in cotton.

One DB camel hair over-coat.

One pair ox-blood and ivory spectators.

Two or three V-neck sweaters in green, dark brown or brown motley, and wine or mustard.

Wine coloured socks, Blood Red socks, clocked socks in black silk/cashmere blend, fuchsia and deep pink socks.

A HUGE Bag full of English ties in simple foulard, neat, and geometric repeating patterns and rich jewel and earth tones.

These are my suggestions (I've got all of these myself too, and more, but these make a good Basic wardrobe in the vintage style).

 

[Guttersnipe]

It's really tough to come up with a SPECIFIC list of VINTAGE wardrobe essentials because one has to be fairly opportunistic when it comes to making purchases. For that reason alone, the approach dherman suggests is definitely more effective than compiling a "check-the-box" itemized list.

I always ask the question "what will I wear this to and what that I already own does this go with?" to evaluate potential purchases. This approach has saved me a lot of money over the years and kept my collection from becoming overwhelming ("these mint condition 40s Jodhpurs are really cool but" . . . "gray flannel 30s trouser will match with almost anything").

 

[Metatron]

Thanks for your contributions. as far as being opportunistic is concerned, sure, I agree, but I wasn't referring to an objective, 'ideal' list of holy grails, but rather what works for you out the stuff you have? What is your 'one suitcase' list? The stuff that you will grab to go on a trip?

For me at this point it would probably be:

• My Czech army parka: water repellent, big pockets, detachable fur lining and collar. Looks good, can customize it to suit any weather.
• Black Corduroy and brown herringbone sportcoats, grey modern three button suit jacket (no full suit at the moment), light windbreaker
• Around 6 casual/chambray work shirts and 2-3 smart shirts
• 3 jumpers in rich vintage colours which be combined with black or brown. Looking for a fairisle style jumper/vest ,repro or vintage
• grey wool danish army trousers, corn coloured corduroy trousers, black 1950s wool suit trousers for winter,
• swedish 1950s cotton work trousers, beige chinos, indigo jeans for warmer weather
• Black boots, brown/tan brogues. Opportunistically waiting for a pair of black slip ons to appear.
• braces
• A bunch of casual knit ties, a few smart ties with subtle but interesting designs.

Right! Now I will feel guilty after adding anything to this. I'm graduating from university soon and hauling the stuff around into an uncertain future becomes a concern.
One thing I want to work on is always having a bit of colour to contrast with the drab base of the outfit.