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Western, anyone?

T Jones

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,795
Location
Central Ohio
This Byer-Rolnick product (made for a western store in Oklahoma City) in the early 1950s (?) has a really nice hand and a cool red liner (with red ribbon at the sweatband seam). Wish it fit me...

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That's a nice one. I could size that up. I sized up two 6 3/4 Westerns and converted them with no problems. I lost brim width in the size up but I at least saved the hats to where they could be worn again.

Biltmore Western, reblocked from 6 3/4 to a 7 1/4
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Resistol Stagecoach, reblocked from 6 3/4 to 7 1/4...
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Last edited:
Messages
11,374
Location
Alabama
Wore the Dorer Bar-50 today along with a favorite pair of boots I don't wear much, Ray Jones in French calf. These are a favorite because they're built like a tank and Mr. Jones was pretty unique among boot makers. If he decided he didn't like you he would not build you boots. This stitch pattern is one of only two he was known to use. He wouldn't use the second pattern on your first pair. I've seen very few pair that he made that were not made from French calf and I've never seen a pair with the other stitch pattern. The tops are more stiff than any I've owned. He used three rows of pegging to secure the boots. He was known for his white piping and beading, white overlays on the pulls and his big toe bug, it's one of my favorites. He had a lead time of up to three years. These are the widest rnd toe I own. 2' heels.

These boots are 38 years old. Mr. Jones died in 1983, the same year he retired. Boots are still made following his patterns and methods by Pablo Jass of Lampasas, TX. Jass tutored under Jones.
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Desert dog

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,291
Location
California
Wore the Dorer Bar-50 today along with a favorite pair of boots I don't wear much, Ray Jones in French calf. These are a favorite because they're built like a tank and Mr. Jones was pretty unique among boot makers. If he decided he didn't like you he would not build you boots. This stitch pattern is one of only two he was known to use. He wouldn't use the second pattern on your first pair. I've seen very few pair that he made that were not made from French calf and I've never seen a pair with the other stitch pattern. The tops are more stiff than any I've owned. He used three rows of pegging to secure the boots. He was known for his white piping and beading, white overlays on the pulls and his big toe bug, it's one of my favorites. He had a lead time of up to three years. These are the widest rnd toe I own. 2' heels.

These boots are 38 years old. Mr. Jones died in 1983, the same year he retired. Boots are still made following his patterns and methods by Pablo Jass of Lampasas, TX. Jass tutored under Jones.
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Thanks for sharing a bit of boot history! They are beautiful, and the workmanship is evident. The toe bug is particularly attractive. I love the stitched vamps of Pablo Jass!

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Messages
11,374
Location
Alabama
Thanks for sharing a bit of boot history! They are beautiful, and the workmanship is evident. The toe bug is particularly attractive. I love the stitched vamps of Pablo Jass!

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Thank you, Dd. I love sharing with those that appreciate it. Your right about those stitched vamp boots. I hope to some day pay Mr. Jass a visit. He's pretty unique as well. No advertising or web presence, unlisted phone. If Jennifer June's contact information is not up to date, you have to go to the local Chamber of Commerce to find him.
 

AbbaDatDeHat

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,850
Wore the Dorer Bar-50 today along with a favorite pair of boots I don't wear much, Ray Jones in French calf. These are a favorite because they're built like a tank and Mr. Jones was pretty unique among boot makers. If he decided he didn't like you he would not build you boots. This stitch pattern is one of only two he was known to use. He wouldn't use the second pattern on your first pair. I've seen very few pair that he made that were not made from French calf and I've never seen a pair with the other stitch pattern. The tops are more stiff than any I've owned. He used three rows of pegging to secure the boots. He was known for his white piping and beading, white overlays on the pulls and his big toe bug, it's one of my favorites. He had a lead time of up to three years. These are the widest rnd toe I own. 2' heels.

These boots are 38 years old. Mr. Jones died in 1983, the same year he retired. Boots are still made following his patterns and methods by Pablo Jass of Lampasas, TX. Jass tutored under Jones.
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Super boots! Great history!
Love the whatever you call ems across the bugs. Ridges??
B
 

bowlerman

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,294
Location
South Dakota
Unfortunately I'm still looking. The black Nutria I bought with a center crease had major spiderwebbing at the crease ends front & back, & was cracked over 50% thru. The seller had a "No Return" policy but I got him to accept it back without opening an eBay claim under a major flaws argument. In total honesty I would not have resold it without full disclosure. It's been listed for sale again with no mention of the spiderwebbing.

Jeez. What is spiderwebbing? And by cracked, do you mean the felt had torn through?


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Messages
18,209
Jeez. What is spiderwebbing? And by cracked, do you mean the felt had torn through?


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Fissures or cracks in the felt that more or less radiate out from a small central point. In this case those points were at the ends of the center crease, front & back. I don't know the cause but would suspect it is from time & poor felting? In this case the cracks were torn more than 50% thru the thickness of the felt. I'm sure worn casually in a rotation of hats it would be a while yet before the felt became cracked thru making a hole. If you were to change the crease up you would probably risk accelerating the formation of the holes. It's a major flaw for sure.
 

bowlerman

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,294
Location
South Dakota
Fissures or cracks in the felt that more or less radiate out from a small central point. In this case those points were at the ends of the center crease, front & back. I don't know the cause but would suspect it is from time & poor felting? In this case the cracks were torn more than 50% thru the thickness of the felt. I'm sure worn casually in a rotation of hats it would be a while yet before the felt became cracked thru making a hole. If you were to change the crease up you would probably risk accelerating the formation of the holes. It's a major flaw for sure.

I see. I bet most of my beaver brand 5X hats have a very light version of this, almost barely visible wrinkles that form when creasing, unlike quality vintage or custom felt.


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Messages
18,209
I see. I bet most of my beaver brand 5X hats have a very light version of this, almost barely visible wrinkles that form when creasing, unlike quality vintage or custom felt.


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My suggestion would be to stay away from tight creases & pinches that could stress or compress the felt tightly. Stay with more gentle lines. And when you work it make sure it is really wet. That might prolong any problems so you can enjoy the hat.
 
Messages
11,374
Location
Alabama
Bumping this thread back to Pg 1, hoping for some time today for straightening & spot cleaning this Kevin O'Farrell. Plus catch up on some pic taking.

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I love the color of that hat. Looking forward to seeing what you do with it.

Ran into one of the few "hat" people I know from around here yesterday at my favorite saloon. He's more of a collector than a wearer. Occasionally he'll hit me up with one to see if I can clean it, straighten it up or whatever. I started telling him of your hat because some time back he took me out to his truck to show me his latest find. Turned out to be an O'Farrell. Close to the color of yours, it had no lining, was really dirty and had a telescope crown with about a 3" brim with a pencil curl but otherwise the hat was in great shape. I kept it about a week cleaning it and got the crown opened up w/o shadows. He's happy as can be with it and eventually wants me to set a crease in it. He bought an O'Farrell liner for $12 over the phone. Here's the kicker; he paid $1 for the hat at a junk store. We're the same size and the hat fits me perfectly. I've offered a decent amount of cash for it but he won't come off it. Never should have told him what new ones sell for.

I was trying to tell him what I know of O'Farrell, which isn't much. Can you fill me in on their timeline? Where they originated, moved to, sold out and such. I've read your postings on them before but I couldn't recall all the details.
 
Messages
18,209
I love the color of that hat. Looking forward to seeing what you do with it.

Ran into one of the few "hat" people I know from around here yesterday at my favorite saloon. He's more of a collector than a wearer. Occasionally he'll hit me up with one to see if I can clean it, straighten it up or whatever. I started telling him of your hat because some time back he took me out to his truck to show me his latest find. Turned out to be an O'Farrell. Close to the color of yours, it had no lining, was really dirty and had a telescope crown with about a 3" brim with a pencil curl but otherwise the hat was in great shape. I kept it about a week cleaning it and got the crown opened up w/o shadows. He's happy as can be with it and eventually wants me to set a crease in it. He bought an O'Farrell liner for $12 over the phone. Here's the kicker; he paid $1 for the hat at a junk store. We're the same size and the hat fits me perfectly. I've offered a decent amount of cash for it but he won't come off it. Never should have told him what new ones sell for.

I was trying to tell him what I know of O'Farrell, which isn't much. Can you fill me in on their timeline? Where they originated, moved to, sold out and such. I've read your postings on them before but I couldn't recall all the details.
I don't know when he actually went into business for himself in Durango. I've read somewhere that he moved around & lived at different places while he apprenticed under others learning the trade. When he settled in Durango he was active in a lot of Western living history stuff & was instrumental along with others in starting the first Cowboy Poetry reading in Durango, which has evolved into the annual Durango Cowboy Gathering. He's in the pic below.

I've been to Durango quite a bit (one of my son-in-laws went to school at Ft. Lewis). I was in Kevin's shop in the mid-1980's. He hit bad times I guess & sold out to the Glenn family in ~1992. The Glenn's had big plans for getting into the Western Wear business with their own brands & lines of clothing, so they moved downtown & convinced Kevin to work for them (or maybe that was part of the buyout, I don't know). Wasn't too long until he was gone, I don't think. I was in there in 1995 & he had been gone quite a while. The hats the Glenn's were making were becoming more flashy with trim, etc.

A lot of merchants in Durango have stores in Santa Fe because tourism in Durango really falls off in the winter. I don't know that he did or not, or if he had to sit out a no compete clause in his contract but it was a while later that I heard he was in Santa Fe. Not sure if his son was already working with him & took over when Kevin died of cancer.

That's really all I know to be factual. Michael R has been to Durango a lot maybe he knows more. Or Moviehats.

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Messages
11,374
Location
Alabama
I don't know when he actually went into business for himself in Durango. I've read somewhere that he moved around & lived at different places while he apprenticed under others learning the trade. When he settled in Durango he was active in a lot of Western living history stuff & was instrumental along with others in starting the first Cowboy Poetry reading in Durango, which has evolved into the annual Durango Cowboy Gathering. He's in the pic below.

I've been to Durango quite a bit (one of my son-in-laws went to school at Ft. Lewis). I was in Kevin's shop in the mid-1980's. He hit bad times I guess & sold out to the Glenn family in ~1992. The Glenn's had big plans for getting into the Western Wear business with their own brands & lines of clothing, so they moved downtown & convinced Kevin to work for them (or maybe that was part of the buyout, I don't know). Wasn't too long until he was gone, I don't think. I was in there in 1995 & he had been gone quite a while. The hats the Glenn's were making were becoming more flashy with trim, etc.

A lot of merchants in Durango have stores in Santa Fe because tourism in Durango really falls off in the winter. I don't know that he did or not, or if he had to sit out a no compete clause in his contract but it was a while later that I heard he was in Santa Fe. Not sure if his son was already working with him & took over when Kevin died of cancer.

That's really all I know to be factual. Michael R has been to Durango a lot maybe he knows more. Or Moviehats.

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Thanks, HJ.
 

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