for a new jacket, washing it obviously give permanent change to the look, for the better, on my new jacket I wear it around for a week after washing without recondition, it really records new creases during that time, when finally conditioned the creases mellow quite a bit but I guess it has to be done. for an old jacket I really have no experience, if its only the smelly lining, I would clean it with upholstery cleaning foam spray they sell for car and sofa/ carpet, that's how I clean my cap liner too last week. some of the grime diluted by the water is what people call "patina" too I'm afraid.
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