Was Roughwear The Original Manufacturer Of The Iconic Hercules Jacket?

[tmitchell59]

This is the earliest edition, yes a grommet zipper with this pull, the older label, the plain lining. Inner adjustable collar. This jacket is c.1935/36. These are the first edition.

I am confused by this corduroy collar? Yes, they have that on the back side of the leather collar.

 

[tmitchell59]

The question:

Who made this jacket, RW or Monarch?

So far much information for RW what about evidence for Monarch?

 

[Claybertrand]

Ok, so the corduroy adjustable collars are earlier than 1938. Wool inner collars ‘38- onwards. @Claybertrand yours is a 1936 or ‘37.

What throws me is the lack of the chin strap on mine...... no signs of it being cut off or otherwise removed. We were initially thinking mine was a later year perhaps when this feature was discontinued......

 

[Claybertrand]

The question:

Who made this jacket, RW or Monarch?

So far much information for RW what about evidence for Monarch?

That is what I had said previously. Monarch may have been a bit of a Red Herring on these. They may have made other Hercules models which would be where the connection comes from. But for this model, the connections to Monarch are pretty non existent from what I know. The RW connections are dot to dot but at least there are a few dots.

 

[handymike]

Wow! TFL sleuths on the case!!!!

 

[RiteStuffBryan]

This is the earliest edition, yes a grommet zipper with this pull, the older label, the plain lining. Inner adjustable collar. This jacket is c.1935/36. These are the first edition.

I am confused by this corduroy collar? Yes, they have that on the back side of the leather collar.

View attachment 495196 View attachment 495197

I thought the earliest editions lacked a chest pocket?

Until ‘38:

 

[Claybertrand]

I thought the earliest editions lacked a chest pocket?

View attachment 495210
View attachment 495211

View attachment 495212

Until ‘38:

View attachment 495213

This is pretty self explanatory that the pocket began in '38 (assuming the catalogs are accurate). BTW--gotta love that FREEZING TEST!!!!!! The Barrel Test is basically how the leather is tanned in many processes. How bout looking your Horsehide RIGHT IN THE FACE!?!???!?!!?!!!!! The old ads are treasures.

 

[handymike]

This is the earliest edition, yes a grommet zipper with this pull, the older label, the plain lining. Inner adjustable collar. This jacket is c.1935/36. These are the first edition.

I am confused by this corduroy collar? Yes, they have that on the back side of the leather collar.

View attachment 495196 View attachment 495197

I think this is the 1942 model.
The wool inner collar, beige fleece liner & chest pocket all suggest it.

 

[RiteStuffBryan]

Yes that’s the ‘42, I have access to all the Sears catalogs on Ancestry and searched through them for Hercules half belts, the result was I found them in the ‘35-‘42 Fall/Winter catalogs and then I added dates to the images for reference.

Here’s ‘39-‘41:

Price is missing on my ‘39 screenshot, I removed it while toying with the image.

Here’s one of the double-breasted Hercs listed above, as far as I can tell as there are no tags shown:

 

[handymike]

So, @Claybertrand ’s jacket doesn’t line up with the Sears catalogs…blue Melton liner with cord collar…but with chest pocket…if it is a Roughwear, that would really be the missing link.

 

[RiteStuffBryan]

It’s closest to the Sears Hercules ‘38, it’s very small but that that one has a chest pocket with ball and chain zipper, blue melton lining, and corduroy collar facing.

 

[jeo]

So, @Claybertrand ’s jacket doesn’t line up with the Sears catalogs…blue Melton liner with cord collar…but with chest pocket…if it is a Roughwear, that would really be the missing link.

It’s closest to the Sears Hercules ‘38, it’s very small but that that one has a chest pocket with ball and chain zipper, blue melton lining, and corduroy collar facing.

Also @Claybertrand ’s jacket has double welt pockets. The Sears labeled jackets were always single welt.

The previous page shows @Claybertrand and @tmitchell59 ’s RW jackets and the pocket construction on both jackets look identical. That leads me to believe that @Claybertrand ‘s jacket is in fact made by RW offered as a generic version w/o the chinstrap since it was such a popular jacket.

Another connection to RW is that RMC made a repro of the Hercules with a Rough Wear label. Not proof by any means but another dot to connect.

 

[handymike]

@Claybertrand does yours have a crown zipper? (crown slide fastener front)

 

[RiteStuffBryan]

@tmitchell59 do you know what the cuff measures on your vintage Hercules?

As much I as I like how modern, slim fit sleeves look they do kind of bother me to wear at times. I’ve found the sleeves/cuffs on my Admiral Byrd a lot nicer.

 

[Brandrea33]

This is a deep dive … love it!

 

[Canuck Panda]

Add another wrinkle to the Herc mystery. The catalog jackets has no inside full facing. The inside leather strip only at the very top 1/3 of the jacket. What does the lining look like on your vintages?

Lining done like the catalog photo:

Most repro lining has the modern full inside strip:

 

[Marc mndt]

Add another wrinkle to the Herc mystery. The catalog jackets has no inside full facing. The inside leather strip only at the very top 1/3 of the jacket. What does the lining look like on your vintages?

Lining done like the catalog photo:
View attachment 495371

Most repro lining has the modern full inside strip:
View attachment 495372

Just like my Albert Richard

 

[Canuck Panda]

Just like my Albert Richard

View attachment 495397

Exactly, these are really nice vintage touches. Probably not the best or easiest for the maker to do from what I've been told but looks different and very cool.

 

[handymike]

Here's the jacket that John Chapman created his Hercules from:

 

[Marc mndt]

Exactly, these are really nice vintage touches. Probably not the best or easiest for the maker to do from what I've been told but looks different and very cool.

Also note how the zipper isn't backed with leather, which makes the slider go up and down more easily.