Vintage Suitings: Discussions of, and sourcing modern equivalents, etc.

[Broccoli]

It sure is cheap... I think I'll try the "vintage" one as it states it is heavier. Did you send them a pair that they copied? I am afraid they may ruin the trousers.

Does anyone have experience with linen shirts? I fear those would be quiiite wrinkly and I'd just be better of with some oxford fabrics.

 

[Rabbit]

It sure is cheap... I think I'll try the "vintage" one as it states it is heavier. Did you send them a pair that they copied? I am afraid they may ruin the trousers.

Does anyone have experience with linen shirts? I fear those would be quiiite wrinkly and I'd just be better of with some oxford fabrics.

I sent them only the measurements that I took myself, and a list of the required extras not listed in the dropdown menu, plus a full set of photos that showed each of the required measurements (trousers laid flat, with tape on top and fixed by paperweights). The photos were only meant as a point of reference, so that it would be the nearest thing to them having the trousers in person.

It worked out perfectly, and I didn't have to change a thing for the second order. Now I'll only have to refer to the order number and they have the pattern ready.

As for linen shirts, yes they do wrinkle the moment you look at them. If you're just starting a full shirt wardrobe, go for cotton.
Linen is only for the heat, but it sure is a nice addition. It absorbs more moisture than cotton and transports it out of the fabric again. Cotton once damp will stay damp. Well, it won't stay completely damp, but linen will take longer to get damp in the first place. That's the practical difference.
Besides, who cares about wrinkles in the heat?

By the way, it's perfectly all right to use linen for Polo shirts as well. It's a nice change of pace from the usual piqué cotton.


Oxford is a winter fabric, as is the heavy twill (like the warzone twill at Luxire). Still, you can wear Oxford in the summer if you want to. It has one advantage over the thin summer cloth: it absorbs more moisture. The extremely thin versions of plain weaves can get damp rather easily in certain parts.
There is also pinpoint oxford, which is a lighter version of oxford, specifially designed for summer wear.

End-on-end is good for shoulder season and summer, as are the "normal" lightweight plain weaves.

 

[Rudie]

I had more trouble with their shirts. So far I ordered six shirts and the fit still is far from good. By now I think the best option is to send in a shirt that fits perfectly and then have them copy it. Jantzen pretty much nailed the fit on the first try. Only that the second one had a collar that was four sizes too large!

 

[Rabbit]

I had more trouble with their shirts. So far I ordered six shirts and the fit still is far from good. By now I think the best option is to send in a shirt that fits perfectly and then have them copy it. Jantzen pretty much nailed the fit on the first try. Only that the second one had a collar that was four sizes too large!

Shirts aren't easy, for sure, if you want a "fitted" fit. To tell you the truth, I don't give a plugged nickel for a "fitted" shirt. I'm content with a perfect collar size, height, shape, length, and a good yoke and shoulder fit, perfect arm length, and an enormous total length (back, front and sides) of the shirt. That's easy. Chest and waist, that's another issue. I want room in there, no fitted shirt. The high-waisted trousers and the proper method to tuck in the shirt (so that the excess folds at the sides rather than the front or back) takes care of the rest.
I'm saying that as someone with a lean build and flat stomach, like you are, I believe?

The problem with a supressed waist on a shirt is that once you go past a certain amount of waist supression, the shirt will tend to pucker at the waist from pulling out of the trousers. So, the fitted waist goes down the drain anyway.

I know it's all a question of personal preference and of getting used to one or the other approach.

 

[Broccoli]

I sent them only the measurements that I took myself, and a list of the required extras not listed in the dropdown menu, plus a full set of photos that showed each of the required measurements (trousers laid flat, with tape on top and fixed by paperweights). The photos were only meant as a point of reference, so that it would be the nearest thing to them having the trousers in person.

It worked out perfectly, and I didn't have to change a thing for the second order. Now I'll only have to refer to the order number and they have the pattern ready.

As for linen shirts, yes they do wrinkle the moment you look at them. If you're just starting a full shirt wardrobe, go for cotton.
Linen is only for the heat, but it sure is a nice addition. It absorbs more moisture than cotton and transports it out of the fabric again. Cotton once damp will stay damp. Well, it won't stay completely damp, but linen will take longer to get damp in the first place. That's the practical difference.
Besides, who cares about wrinkles in the heat?

By the way, it's perfectly all right to use linen for Polo shirts as well. It's a nice change of pace from the usual piqué cotton.


Oxford is a winter fabric, as is the heavy twill (like the warzone twill at Luxire). Still, you can wear Oxford in the summer if you want to. It has one advantage over the thin summer cloth: it absorbs more moisture. The extremely thin versions of plain weaves can get damp rather easily in certain parts.
There is also pinpoint oxford, which is a lighter version of oxford, specifially designed for summer wear.

End-on-end is good for shoulder season and summer, as are the "normal" lightweight plain weaves.

Hm, I thought oxford was for summer? I know the warzone oxford is warm, I can barely wear it. But "summershirts" in my 1927 Swedish catalog were apparently made in oxford, that is why I assumed it generally was a summer fabric. I'll probably try this one: http://luxire.com/products/cool-white-linen-cotton

Shirts aren't easy, for sure, if you want a "fitted" fit. To tell you the truth, I don't give a plugged nickel for a "fitted" shirt. I'm content with a perfect collar size, height, shape, length, and a good yoke and shoulder fit, perfect arm length, and an enormous total length (back, front and sides) of the shirt. That's easy. Chest and waist, that's another issue. I want room in there, no fitted shirt. The high-waisted trousers and the proper method to tuck in the shirt (so that the excess folds at the sides rather than the front or back) takes care of the rest.
I'm saying that as someone with a lean build and flat stomach, like you are, I believe?

The problem with a supressed waist on a shirt is that once you go past a certain amount of waist supression, the shirt will tend to pucker at the waist from pulling out of the trousers. So, the fitted waist goes down the drain anyway.

I know it's all a question of personal preference and of getting used to one or the other approach.

Exactly my opinion. The oldest shirts I have are all completely straight cut from chest to bottom. The high trousers then make it look good.

 

[Rudie]

Shirts aren't easy, for sure, if you want a "fitted" fit. SNIP

Too many assumptions, Rabbit. I am going for a generous vintage fit. But somehow they keep making the front in a way that there are very pronounced unsightly creases from the armpit up to the shoulders. They need to take away some excess fabric from the chest and the armholes are also still a problem. Not to mention that a better fitting shirt would be much more comfortable.

Luxire:


Jantzen:

 

[Rabbit]

Hm, I thought oxford was for summer? I know the warzone oxford is warm, I can barely wear it. But "summershirts" in my 1927 Swedish catalog were apparently made in oxford, that is why I assumed it generally was a summer fabric. I'll probably try this one: http://luxire.com/products/cool-white-linen-cotton

Oxford cloth can be worn year-round, and there are different weights, of course. The typical, heavyweight oxford cloth is the best winter cloth there is, that's for sure. Not only is it thick and heavy, but it also has the right surface interest to accompany winter suitings like tweed and flannel.
You can wear it in the summer, too, if you want to. Of course it wouldn't work the other way around - wearing a summer cloth in winter.
Luxire has lots of different oxfords, and some of them are not too heavy despite not being a pinpoint oxford.
The heavy ones are, for instance, the blue classic oxford, sky blue classic, pale pink classic, Yellow Candy Stripes Oxford, Yellow Pencil Stripes on Blue Oxford, Pale Yellow Oxford Stripes, Blue White Stripes Oxford... they all hold up very well. These are what I would call real oxfords, they last and last and last.

 

[Rabbit]

Too many assumptions, Rabbit. I am going for a generous vintage fit. But somehow they keep making the front in a way that there are very pronounced unsightly creases from the armpit up to the shoulders. They need to take away some excess fabric from the chest and the armholes are also still a problem.

Oh, I see. Too many assumptions indeed, mea culpa.

What exactly is the problem with the armholes? I can't see it clearly in the pic, aside from the obvious pull.

 

[Rudie]

I don't know. Theresa said there was still a problem with the armholes. On the first iterations they were too small and "cutting" in the armpits. They are reasonably small now, but much more comfortable. But somehow it still looks funny.

 

[Rabbit]

Well, send the Jantzen in, then.

The Jantzen looks actually more roomy in the chest, and the shoulder seam looks further out. Hard to see, though. Don't be afraid of wider armholes.

 

[Rudie]

I am not crazy about sending in a near perfect shirt. I sent one of Luxire's shirts back because they had made it with the wrong collar and it was lost in transit. I don't want to lose my favorite shirt.

 

[Broccoli]

I am not crazy about sending in a near perfect shirt. I sent one of Luxire's shirts back because they had made it with the wrong collar and it was lost in transit. I don't want to lose my favorite shirt.

I hope my cream flannels don't get lost now, I've already placed an order. From your shirt picture, it looks like the creases are made because the shoulders are sloping. Try to experiment with what would happen if you "raise your shoulders", if this makes sense. They can easily compensate for such things, but it would be hard for them to get just the right amount.

Wow this tread sure went off-topic, lol.

 

[Rabbit]

Oops. Oh dear, you're so right Broccoli.

Rudie, I wrote something in reply to your last post in the Luxire Affiliate thread.

 

[herringbonekid]

i noticed that Fox have introduced two new coating fabrics; the British Warm, and the Great Coat.
both apparently made from original 1914 specifications and 30-31 oz weight:

 

[Barmey]

Mmmm I like... Maybe a centenary inspired overcoat for next winter

 

[Broccoli]

i noticed that Fox have introduced two new coating fabrics; the British Warm, and the Great Coat.
both apparently made from original 1914 specifications and 30-31 oz weight:

...What would be the maximum weight to make a suit out of? I really like the texture of the second one. Could you imagine the drape?!

 

[Two Types]

Mmmm I like... Maybe a centenary inspired overcoat for next winter

Yes please, a 32oz Melton British Warm would be ideal. Kind of you to offer.

 

[herringbonekid]

...What would be the maximum weight to make a suit out of?

about 22-24 oz, unless you're talking about a very rugged Norfolk type suit, as oppose to a smart suit, in which case you could probably go a bit higher.

(you could find Shetland / Scotch tweeds with a nearly identical look in the 18-20 oz range more suitable for suits)

 

[Tomasso]

I've handled a lot of coating that could make up very nicely as suiting and there's no rule against it as far as I know. I've mentioned that here on numerous occasions when discussing the dearth of heavier suiting today but it always seems to fall upon deaf ears.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

The heaviest suit I have encountered is my 1920s/30s French suit whose fabric weighs just under 32 Oz/sqm. 3 pieces, it has broken 3 wooden hangers so far.