Vintage Suitings: Discussions of, and sourcing modern equivalents, etc.

[Rudie]

That would be awesome. I just had a fitting for my summer suit. It is in a quite light cream and brown striped vintage fabric, probably only 13oz. SB two button front, belted back with inverted pleat, two breast pockets, all pockets patch pockets with pleats and Oxford bags. I think it is going to be very nice. Unfortunately I had only 3 meters, not enough for a 3 piece.

 

[Barmey]

Thank you for posting the photographs. Congratulations on such a wonderful find

 

[Two Types]

Sounds good Rudie, I look forward to seeing the suit. In the meantime, please post photos of the fabric.

 

[herringbonekid]

It is in a quite light cream and brown striped vintage fabric, probably only 13oz.

what age vintage ?

 

[herringbonekid]

p.s. for anyone who was following the earlier corduroy discussion....i have some of this cord on the way, from the trouser maker who made stuff for Bookster.
still don't know who the manufacturer of the cord is (i will ask in the next email).

i also got a couple of swatches of cord from 'Tinsmiths' which appears to be identical to the Bookster cord, so probably the same manufacturer.

Harrisons cord (Porter & Harding range) was good (25oz), but the colours too greeny for me.

Dugdales cord was too light (16oz) and a bit sheeny.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

That would be awesome. I just had a fitting for my summer suit. It is in a quite light cream and brown striped vintage fabric, probably only 13oz. SB two button front, belted back with inverted pleat, two breast pockets, all pockets patch pockets with pleats and Oxford bags. I think it is going to be very nice. Unfortunately I had only 3 meters, not enough for a 3 piece.

Whooaaaa. I hope it turns out as great as it sounds. Can't wait for the pictures

 

[Rudie]

what age vintage ?

The seller claimed 30s, but how would I know?

 

[herringbonekid]

^ by comparing it to other 30s fabrics.

 

[Rudie]

p.s. for anyone who was following the earlier corduroy discussion....i have some of this cord on the way, from the trouser maker who made stuff for Bookster.
still don't know who the manufacturer of the cord is (i will ask in the next email).

i also got a couple of swatches of cord from 'Tinsmiths' which appears to be identical to the Bookster cord, so probably the same manufacturer.

Harrisons cord (Porter & Harding range) was good (25oz), but the colours too greeny for me.

Dugdales cord was too light (16oz) and a bit sheeny.

I am looking for a heavy cord in either black, very dark grey or brownish grey or even in a dark maroon. How much and how heavy are the Bookster cords?
I have a 1920s LVC shawl collar mackinaw that I want to have lined. It looks great but is totally impractical without a lining. The wind goes right through and it is not a heavy blanket type fabric to begin with. I could wear it on a warm spring or autumn day but surely not in the cold. I never thought that it was so difficult to get some good cord. Maybe I should go with a heavy loden fabric instead?

 

[herringbonekid]

How much and how heavy are the Bookster cords?

they're 25oz and about £21.95 a metre, not including VAT.
unfortunately i don't know what other colours the trouser maker has in stock.

 

[herringbonekid]

Maybe I should go with a heavy loden fabric instead?

some army coats used a heavy cotton twill as lining, e.g....

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Or you could go for a soft fluffy tweed, or cotton flannel.

 

[Rudie]

Thanks hbk! That's less than half of what Huddersfield Fine Worsteds charge. BTW, do you remember how much that heavy whipcord from H. E. Box costs?

The outside is already a kind of tweed. I don't think lining it with tweed would do the trick. I want something that's draught resistant and substantial. I think cord would be a very good and affordable option. Cotton twill would probably not wear as warm as I would like it to. Loden is windproof and waterresistant, but I am not sure it would look as good as cord.

 

[herringbonekid]

BTW, do you remember how much that heavy whipcord from H. E. Box costs?

you mean the Bedford cord ? i don't think i actually got a price from them. TT has the swatches now, so he will be able to tell you if they had a price on.

 

[Rudie]

Ah yes, it was Bedford cord.

 

[herringbonekid]

oh, i did get a price. £39 a metre...

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/show...valents-etc.&p=1648565&viewfull=1#post1648565

 

[Two Types]

That reminds me, I must get some to have a pair of trousers made ready for winter.

 

[Rudie]

I found a shop where they sell traditional guild clothing to carpenters and such. They have 800 grams all cotton cord, moleskin (Pilot) and a German variant of moleskin, Deutschleder (German leather), which comes in 800 grams also. They have the fabric made specifically for them. I asked them if they can sell me some fabric or point me to the manufacturers.

http://www.original-veddel.de/html_new/herkules.htm
http://www.original-veddel.de/html_new/deutschleder.htm

 

[Guttersnipe]

What do you fellas think of this lighter gray flannel? I was thinking it might make a nice mid-30s inspired three-piece. What does 430g per meter translate to in ounces per yard anyways?

 

[herringbonekid]

What do you fellas think of this lighter gray flannel?

Harrison's ? i've felt the heavier mid-grey one which is about 18oz.... very similar feel to the Fox standard (not LL range) grey flannel 18oz ... a good classic flannel.
can't comment on the 15 oz though as i haven't handled it.