Vintage Schott-Beck Motorcycle Jackets

[Aloysius]

I couldn't find a specific thread on this topic, though I saw several adjacent. I figured it was appropriate to have one because this is definitely one of the pieces to this history.

It's well known that Beck had jackets made by Schott, some of which were available under a different model name at each of their respective catalogues.

One of my own is the checkered-flag Beck label 999, which I recently discussed with @jeo in another thread. This exact jacket, which I thought was a 60s jacket but he placed it at the late 50s due to the construction:

Here is jeo's, which he estimates to be early 60s:

I had assumed that the additional workmanship such as the French seams was something Beck had specially requested for their own-labeled jackets. Indeed the presence of French seams led some people to suggest they couldn't have been made by Schott.

Recently I saw this on eBay! Nothing inherently wild about it but it gives us another piece.

Seems to be a sibling of my jacket, except with the Schott ribbon label. I've seen plenty of jackets with that label, but the motorcycle jackets have usually been 618s, like this one that @AHP91 sold last year.

This one though is pretty much exactly my Beck 999, including the French seams.

So it seems that the construction differences weren't based on private label vs house label, but just came down to which model it was. The detachable belt models and at least one of the cafe racer models got the French seamed construction, while the attached belt model and some of the cafe racers did not.

I'm not sure what the reason for this is, but it's interesting.

I'd be really curious to hear what others have found about these jackets, not just stitching wise. I think for instance the Schott label confirms that this generation of Beck jacket is also steerhide. (John Chapman upon examining reckoned it's most likely steerhide but a visual inspection is inconclusive; I think this label answers the question, so I'll let him know; I actually saved these pictures meaning to send them to him.)

I know @Marc mndt owned one of the Beck cafe racers at one point; I think it had French seams, but I'm not sure. I know that when Schott recently did a repro of their own-brand contemporary of that jacket, it had the French seamed panels as well.

 

[jeo]

Awesome and much needed thread.

If anyone is interested in Schott/Beck jackets and their history I highly recommend the Schott Tanaka book.

Here are pics from the book. I did the best I could with these. They really need to be scanned.

(Just an fyi, there are some inconsistencies with a few things)

Let’s start with the labels.

 

[jeo]

Early Schott aviator D pocket model 2262 from the late 30’s. Beck catalog page from 1939.

 

[Aloysius]

Marc's 666 had the French seams along the arms.

 

[jeo]

Early example of a Beck jacket that has both the Beck and a Perfecto label. This is a Beck ladies model 333LB. Late 30’s/early 40’s.

 

[jeo]

The classic Beck 333, one of the most iconic motorcycle jackets of all time. First appeared in Beck news in 1940. This one is the 333 CD (cordovan)

Early Ad from Beck’s accessories catalog from 1941 for the Beck 333-B

 

[jeo]

Here’s a goatskin version.

I recently saw this goatskin version with a 30’s zipper. Probably one of the first ever made in 1940 and they used a 30s zipper OR there’s the first inconsistency.

 

[jeo]

The very first Beck 999 from 1950. These jackets were horsehide and were produced for 5 years until 1955. Very different design than the later 999s and Perfecto 618s

 

[Aloysius]

I'd seen the goatskin one in the Tanaka book but this example is stunning.

 

[Aloysius]

Looking at the label of the 30s jacket, I find the "Horsehide Pony Weight" phrasing interesting, considering our recent discussion of "What does ponyhide mean?"

Maybe some makers used it as a weight indicator rather than an actual animal age indicator like calf/lamb?

 

[jeo]

More examples of the first Beck 999

 

[jeo]

And another one

 

[jeo]

Here’s the second version Beck 999. Still horsehide. This model came out in 1955. This is the design we most commonly see.

Here’s the ad for it from 1955 announcing new pocket configuration with added coin pocket.

 

[jeo]

Here’s my third version Beck 999 in steerhide. Now the label just says “Beck Northeaster Flying Togs” no leather specification.

This label isn’t on the chart. I’d need to look back but I don’t think this jacket is in any of the Tanaka books. This is probably late 50’s (57-58)

 

[jeo]

Here’s the fourth version Beck 999 with probably one of the first appearances of the checkered flag label.

@Aloysius your jacket here is steerhide and probably very late 50’s and perhaps into the early 60’s. Still with 50’s construction techniques i.e. rounded double stitched epaulets, French seaming etc..

 

[jeo]

Here’s the fifth version. This is my Beck 999 from the 60’s. @Aloysius did I say early 60’s? Thought I just said 60’s lol. This exact model was advertised into the mid-late 60’s.

 

[Aloysius]

@Aloysius did I say early 60’s? Thought I just said 60’s lol. This exact model was advertised into the mid-late 60’s.

I was probably just confusing it in my head with how I thought mine was early 60s until you corrected me.

 

[jeo]

And here’s my Beck 666 from the 60’s.

 

[jeo]

Ok now onto the horsehide Schott Perfecto 618.

Here’s the first one shown in the Schott book. It says mid-late 50’s. Probably closer to early-mid 50’s.

I don’t know if this is the first version but it has a one piece back and no kidney panel.

Heres the second horsehide Perfecto shown in the book. Now with kidney panel. Says late 50’s early 60’s. It’s probably mid 50’s.

The Ribbon label is said to be late 50’s into the early 60’s. Most makers stopped using horsehide mid-late 50’s and I’d imagine Schott would be no different

Here’s the third one shown in the book. Uber rare Perfecto label and a steerhide label. Just says 50’s. Probably mid-late 50’s since it’s steerhide.

And here’s an awesome two tone horsehide Perfecto. Says mid-late 50’s and again probably more earlier 50’s than late.

 

[jeo]

A couple more early horsehide Perfecto 618s. Note how some of them have stars and some don’t.