vintage peacoat sizing?

[LarryO]

Hi,

I'm thinking of buying a vintage peacoat from vintagetrends.com but would like some help with sizing. I've read the sticky but since I live in Europe and shipping is kind of expensive I would appreciate your advise.

I'm 175 cm (5.7 ft) and weigh 68 kg (150 lbs). My chest measurement is 99 cm (39 inches). If I understand Peacoats sticky that would mean that a size 38 would fit me. The thing is, and this is why I asking for you help, I usually go for a size 34. I own a Gloverall duffel coat, Barbour Bedale and Sport coats from J Crew all in size 34. Sure I tried Gloveralls peacoat and size 34 was to small (fits very nice over my shoulders, but I can't button the two top buttons), but I have very hard to believe that I should go up two sizes when everybody here on this forum says you should probably size down.

What do you think?

Cheers,
Larry

 

[OneEyeMan]

I'm pretty much the same size as you, with 5 more lbs.
I bought a 40 from the mid to late 60's, and it fits perfectly.
These were meant to fit slimly, so buy your size.
Mine is actually a little tight across the shoulders and back when driving.
But, when standing and walking, it's perfect, and looks great in both dress and casual situations.
Take your time and find one in good condition.
I picked mine up on that well known auction site for $50.
It has a few moth nibbles, nothing that goes all the way through though, and they're virtually invisible from
anything further than 6" out.
Good luck,
Lenny

 

[Peacoat]

A size 38 will probably be your best bet. As you are in between size, it makes it a little more difficult. You will probably be able to fit a sweater under the coat, and yet not have the coat too big without one.

Ask VT to hold the coat at an angle to a strong light source and check each section for damage. This method will show all damage.

Also copy my instructions for proper measurement of the pit to pit and send that to them. Ask them to follow those instructions in measuringthe pit to pit. VT is notorious for nt wanting to actually to measure the pit to pit.

You will want a pit to pit of about 19+ inches.

 

[jmnelson75]

Hey gang, thanks for the awesome information on peacoats. I have poured over this forum (still trying to navigate it however) but I have a pressing question I cannot seem to figure out or find anywhere...and hope to be asking this in the proper place.
So in terms of arm length for a given peacoat size (say a 38R) it seems there is no "standard" arm length...same for a 40R etc etc...My question is this...is this due to the differences in given contractor (manufacturer) or is it sort hidden in-between size of a given coat...for example: it seems like there is a 40R (regular arm) and a 40R (a little longer arm) before going up to the next size...that being a 40L
I hope that makes any sense as it is making my brain hurt trying to decipher what I need! I have a 40R now...with 25" arms...they are about as close it will get to perfect for me in that sense as I would rather be maybe a touch large in the chest as opposed to horribly short arms.
I am 6' 160lbs, thin...but I wear a 34/35 shirt sleeve and a 40" chest so I on the cusp as is, but the arm issue is ever present in all my clothing...so I am trying to find a 38 but don't know whether to go 38R with the "longer arms" or just go 38L and call it a day.
THANK YOU so much for setting me on the path!

 

[Peacoat]

It makes my brain hurt to try and understand your exact question! If you are asking about a size 38, yes, you will definitely need to go with a long size, if you can find it. If your inquiry is different than that, please ask it again.

Welcome to the Lounge. PC.

 

[Carlos840]

From my limited experience looking at peacoats, and buying one, i think that tagged size is pretty much meaningless.

I have seen two peacoats tagged with the same size and brand that had different arms length and shoulder width...

IMO if you know your measurements just try to find one that fits them and ignore the tag.

 

[Doctor Damage]

Hey gang, thanks for the awesome information on peacoats. I have poured over this forum (still trying to navigate it however) but I have a pressing question I cannot seem to figure out or find anywhere...and hope to be asking this in the proper place.
So in terms of arm length for a given peacoat size (say a 38R) it seems there is no "standard" arm length...same for a 40R etc etc...My question is this...is this due to the differences in given contractor (manufacturer) or is it sort hidden in-between size of a given coat...for example: it seems like there is a 40R (regular arm) and a 40R (a little longer arm) before going up to the next size...that being a 40L
I hope that makes any sense as it is making my brain hurt trying to decipher what I need! I have a 40R now...with 25" arms...they are about as close it will get to perfect for me in that sense as I would rather be maybe a touch large in the chest as opposed to horribly short arms.
I am 6' 160lbs, thin...but I wear a 34/35 shirt sleeve and a 40" chest so I on the cusp as is, but the arm issue is ever present in all my clothing...so I am trying to find a 38 but don't know whether to go 38R with the "longer arms" or just go 38L and call it a day.
THANK YOU so much for setting me on the path!

I am 6'1" tall and 160 lbs with a 41" chest. I have been watching The Bay for most of this year for a vintage pea coat and from checking measurements there is absolutely no way that I could size down in vintage coats - they all seem to fit small without a lot of extra room. I don't agree with those who say peacoats are supposed to fit slim - that's a modern idea, not borne out in old photos. In other words, if you have a 40" chest I'm pretty sure you will need a size 40 or even 42 chest in vintage peacoats. But naturally I defer to those who have been studying and collecting these coats far longer than I have.

Regarding sleeve length, I've noticed that vintage civilian outerwear almost always had shorter sleeves than modern outerwear. By which I mean that a 1960 overcoat in Regular length will have shorter sleeves than a 2014 overcoat in Regular length, with the same chest size. I don't know why this is the case, but it is. I imagine Peacoat can comment if vintage peacoats had the same characteristic.

 

[jmnelson75]

Peacoat I know! My bad...clear as mud I know, but thanks for the effort of even trying to decode that! Your posts have help me tremendously as is, so I do appreciate it. Basically I guess Ill take the tag as Carlos suggested, and use it as more of a guide and then use the tape to zero in on the actual arm/shoulder length.

 

[John Mason]

Greetings.
What a geat forum this is!
I too want to find myself a vintage peacoat, but the sizing is giving me a headache.
I´m 6ft tall, 170lbs and my chest measures 40,5". I prefer to wear slim fit clothes - so obviously I´m looking to find a slim fitting peacoat.
At first, based on the info written on this forum, I figured that a size 40R would be good for me, but when I started searching for a coat to buy I noticed that a coat labelled as 40R could measure somewhere between 20,5"-22,5" (armpit to armpit).
So, for those of you that have worn these, what do you think? How much "loose" should a peacoat have - what would be the optimum measurement (armpit to armpit) for me to search for.
Thanks in advance!

 

[Cooperson]

From my limited experience looking at peacoats, and buying one, i think that tagged size is pretty much meaningless.

I have seen two peacoats tagged with the same size and brand that had different arms length and shoulder width...

IMO if you know your measurements just try to find one that fits them and ignore the tag.

+1. As my good friend Mr Peacot will verify, I imported a very nice size 40" peacoat from over the pond, that should have fit me, only to find the shoulder width was huge! I have since acquired another 40" that fits a treat.

My advice would be to use the tagged size as your starting point, but then check all the measurements very carefully!

 

[Peacoat]

+1. As my good friend Mr Peacot will verify, I imported a very nice size 40" peacoat from over the pond, that should have fit me, only to find the shoulder width was huge! I have since acquired another 40" that fits a treat.

My advice would be to use the tagged size as your starting point, but then check all the measurements very carefully!

Cooperson is my poster child for what can go wrong. Before his experience, I had never seen a peacoat that fit much differently from the tag size. As I remember, the coat was also too big in the chest--basically too large overall? Is that right Coops? So, I started recommending that the buyer obtain an accurate p2p from the seller, as, evidently, some peacoats deviated from the norm (an anomaly). Also, I recommended the buyer learn how to accurately measure his own chest size so he will know how to determine what size coat will fit best.

Since Cooperson's experience, I have found a few other coats where the stated tag size was larger than the actual size--as measured by the p2p. But in the vast majority of the cases, the stated tag size is accurate, within an inch. But if one is looking for a trim fit, an inch can be the difference between a good fit or not. Always try to get the seller to give an accurate p2p.

For a fit that will allow one to wear a sweater under the coat, buy the size that corresponds to one's measured chest size. For a trimmer fit that doesn't allow for layering, buy one size smaller than the measured chest size. This assumes one's other measurements are within the standard (proportional) for height and weight.

As there is such a variation in the methods to measure shoulder width and sleeve length, and the fact that a prospective buyer has nothing to compare these measurements to (until he gets his first peacoat), I have not gone into this area. Just too many variables.

 

[Peacoat]

Greetings.
What a geat forum this is!
I too want to find myself a vintage peacoat, but the sizing is giving me a headache.
I´m 6ft tall, 170lbs and my chest measures 40,5". I prefer to wear slim fit clothes - so obviously I´m looking to find a slim fitting peacoat.
At first, based on the info written on this forum, I figured that a size 40R would be good for me, but when I started searching for a coat to buy I noticed that a coat labelled as 40R could measure somewhere between 20,5"-22,5" (armpit to armpit).
So, for those of you that have worn these, what do you think? How much "loose" should a peacoat have - what would be the optimum measurement (armpit to armpit) for me to search for.
Thanks in advance!

A vintage tag size 40 post war peacoat should measure between 21.25 and 21.50 inches, if it is properly measured. If you want a size 40, that is what you should search for. In Finland you will need a sweater under the coat, or it just won't be warm enough for you.

You are a tweener, so that makes it more difficult to fit you. If you want a more fitted look, then you might go for a large size 38, which would measure about 20.50". That would be rather iffy, and the sleeves would probably be too short for you.

 

[Spoonbelly]

I am 6'1" tall and 160 lbs with a 41" chest. I have been watching The Bay for most of this year for a vintage pea coat and from checking measurements there is absolutely no way that I could size down in vintage coats - they all seem to fit small without a lot of extra room. I don't agree with those who say peacoats are supposed to fit slim - that's a modern idea, not borne out in old photos. In other words, if you have a 40" chest I'm pretty sure you will need a size 40 or even 42 chest in vintage peacoats. But naturally I defer to those who have been studying and collecting these coats far longer than I have.

Regarding sleeve length, I've noticed that vintage civilian outerwear almost always had shorter sleeves than modern outerwear. By which I mean that a 1960 overcoat in Regular length will have shorter sleeves than a 2014 overcoat in Regular length, with the same chest size. I don't know why this is the case, but it is. I imagine Peacoat can comment if vintage peacoats had the same characteristic.

I would go with a size 42. The sleeve length should also be long enough with a 42.

 

[John Mason]

Thanks!
The fit I´m looking for is pretty much like as in the WWII coat -picture (Peacoat dating thread).
You´re right that there most definitely needs to be sweater underneath - it´s chilly out here
I found a 60´s peacoat for sale which is labelled as 40R and the seller measured the chest size as 20,5".
If I can't find one with a 21,25-21.5" chest I´ll probably go with the 20,5" sized. It´ll be tight but hopefully not too tight...
It´s a bit tricky to find a supposedly good fit without any reference since I haven't ever owned one, but hey - gotta start somewhere..

 

[Peacoat]

Thanks!
The fit I´m looking for is pretty much like as in the WWII coat -picture (Peacoat dating thread).

I found a 60´s peacoat for sale which is labelled as 40R and the seller measured the chest size as 20,5".

It´s a bit tricky to find a supposedly good fit without any reference since I haven't ever owned one, but hey - gotta start somewhere..

Yes, the WWII coat is perfectly fitted on a perfectly proportioned model. He also knows a lot about peacoats.

If the coat is accurately tagged, I don't think the seller measured properly. With those measurements, the coat will fit like a size 38. You might copy and paste my instructions on how to measure, send it to her and ask her to measure again.

If you have standard proportions, and if you follow the fitting guide, you should get a good fit the first time out of the box.

Good luck.

 

[Kingston83]

As there is such a variation in the methods to measure shoulder width and sleeve length, and the fact that a prospective buyer has nothing to compare these measurements to (until he gets his first peacoat), I have not gone into this area. Just too many variables.

Peacoat, wearing a sweater and taking a point to point measurement at the angle where the arm meets the shoulder (the acromion at it's widest point is usually good) across the fullest part of the upper back (the tape should touch the base of the neck - so T1 vertebrate); and then comparing it to a point to point measurement of the yoke should be a good starting point for shoulder fit. The guide that I posted in the other thread has helped me out when shopping for other items. I think that shoulders are the most critical for men who aren't in traditional proportions. I have a barrel chest, and my shoulders are broad left to right, but also front to back. It has been making my pea coat experience a huge pain in the butt. One day though I will get it right, hahaha...

 

[Peacoat]

Yes, the photos you posted are a great help in telling sellers how to measure the shoulders and the sleeve length. I have copied them to my hard drive for future use.

 

[jmnelson75]

Here is a follow up to my buying experience and pea coats education about the fit...I'm 6'0 165 thin and have a 40" chest. I have ended up doing what I didn't initially want to do, but am a lot happier I did and seems a lot have done as well...bought two coats.
First one I bought right at my chest size 40R...it fits great wearing a heavy wool sweater and undershirt and scarf....That said, I ran to the store one day and put on the 40R over my long-sleeved t-shirt and at first it seemed fine and looks perfectly fine as well, but then the nuances of a fitted coat revealed itself. After I wore it for half a day there was no doubt in my mind there was a shade too much room for light apparel. So like all OCD maniacs...I ordered a 38R and waited...sure it would be too small; however once it arrived I put it on over a button up shirt & wife beater...BINGO, beautiful, perfect fit. and looks it. And the best part, the wool sweater under the 38R is slightly too tight, so now I'm forced to keep both! I am in Wisconsin so Ill have a chance to layer up and down with our seasons. Thanks for all the information TFL has provided!

 

[FAFOO68]

Hello,
Just my 2 cts, i have a estimated 1958 peacoat tagged in size 38. The P2P is exactly 20,86' (53 cm). My chest size is 38 and i have plenty of room to put a tee-shirt+shirt+sweater. The armholes are really wide enough to accomodate every kind of stuff (jumper or blazer). And with all that, i can easily move my arms.
Cheers,
F68

 

[Peacoat]

Here is a follow up to my buying experience and pea coats education about the fit...I'm 6'0 165 thin and have a 40" chest. I have ended up doing what I didn't initially want to do, but am a lot happier I did and seems a lot have done as well...bought two coats.
First one I bought right at my chest size 40R...it fits great wearing a heavy wool sweater and undershirt and scarf....That said, I ran to the store one day and put on the 40R over my long-sleeved t-shirt and at first it seemed fine and looks perfectly fine as well, but then the nuances of a fitted coat revealed itself. After I wore it for half a day there was no doubt in my mind there was a shade too much room for light apparel. So like all OCD maniacs...I ordered a 38R and waited...sure it would be too small; however once it arrived I put it on over a button up shirt & wife beater...BINGO, beautiful, perfect fit. and looks it. And the best part, the wool sweater under the 38R is slightly too tight, so now I'm forced to keep both! I am in Wisconsin so Ill have a chance to layer up and down with our seasons. Thanks for all the information TFL has provided!

Yes, this is exactly what I have been recommending for the past 8 years. Buy your chest size for room to layer, and one size smaller for a trim fitted look that won't accommodate a sweater (jumper). Glad it worked out for you. In the frozen Northland of Wisconsin, you will definitely need a sweater under your peacoat--when it isn't too cold to wear a peacoat.

A couple of weeks ago, I wore a size 40 with no sweater when the temp was 18 degrees. Got chilled. The next morning, at 19 degrees, I wore a size 42 with a sweater. Didn't even notice the cold--except on my legs.