Lost Worlds CHP HorseHide Jacket

[photo2u]

Hi guys

I'm posting here, you all have a lot of Lost W. I'm on the edge to order a new jacket from Stu, but during the years reading about him and searching on his website a purchase felt redundant from Europe were I live at the moment.

Everyone knows at this point his jackets are bulletproof and need few years just to break them in order to by comfortable. Owning 1 now, j23 and bought a buco Ryder that's on the way from Japan.

I never ordered a new one from him, but I have an issue with one I have here with me.

His stock zippers are the weak point, that's easy to fix but costly nevertheless, with crown nos option.

Whatever personally have another huge issue and I want an upgrade if order a brand new jacket and paying 2-3k GBP from UK. Never anybody complained about it or at this time am afraid if I'm starting my negotiation with Stu about it I might have no jacket from him... that would be a blasphemy to mention after reading his description on the website about durability and high skilled machinists.

His bonded nylon tread isn't thick enough for the leather he use 4-oz.

Leather thickness, machine type, needle size, preferred stitch appearance and any specific strength requirements might be followed but I prefer my jacket to hold more than 20-years. This one it's before 2010 and already had to fix it myself because in high tension points where the leather it's thick thread snapped, annoying and hate to punch this nice leather because everything else it's spot on. I'm attaching photos to see the difference between my vanson 1970 cross zip and his j23 jacket.



The thread in vanson it's I would say double thickness and have already 50 years and it's going strong, no issues at all, and this in LW looks clean and small holes, more like a Japanese work but weak nevertheless.

Now I'm wondering what is the largest thread size his machine/machinist can use?

I don't care if stiching won't be so neat and thight and having small holes in the leathers. Nylon thread anyway stretch the leather in long term and holes get larger by time passing, that my son would decide with these jackets



He would accept to take in consideration to upgrade that, I don't care if need to pay more but I don't want anymore to have to repair these beautiful jackets, special a new one.



Left the belt with 4 stitches it's vanson

Other j23 belt

Noticeable in vanson the thickness of 50 years thread compared with what Stu used in j23.


Any thoughts about it?
Please help

Friend, I am going to agree with you regarding your observations. I would ask him if he can do bonded nylon Tex 138 in your project. That is a strong tread for extra heavy duty jacket. Personally, I love that Tex 138 in most project. You know, Some collectors do not pay attention to some very crucial aspects in leather garments. First, I must point out that I am not a big fan of cotton thread. I prefer bonded nylon mainly do to the improvements in strength,durability and other factors that make makes bonded nylon a superior thread material over cotton. Having some limited experience using heavy duty threads in my four industrial sewing machines, (consew 223r,206 rb2, 225 and singer industrial 31-15) I also restore and collect about 8 30s to 60s period heavy duty singer machines. The problem with some industrial machines is the way they handle heavy thread Tex 138 and up. Most have difficulties. I truly do not know which machines Stu uses but I think he uses perhaps the Juki LU 563 due to it's reputation and quality for the leather garment industry. An old friend brought to me his new 563. He was having problem with his Juki using Tex 138 all around. After a good tune up I suggested he uses Tex at the top and Tex 90 at the bottom (bobbin). He was able to utilize this combo very well in his upholstery production. Lastly, It is time consuming adjusting thread thickness when routinely changing the different types of thread sizes on the the machines. I believe that is one of the reasons Stu sticks with an easy to work thread. The old Vansons are hard to beat in just about all of the important aspects of leather jacket production. For the price, Stu still makes a very good product that will last a very long time. My oldest LW jacket is about 28 years? My oldest vanson is around 50 years. Both will be around a lot longer than me. LOL.