Vintage Outerwear: Threads of the Past

[Yamahana]

I was looking into this interesting halfbelt design with the side adjusters morphing into the halfbelt. It seems to be a feature typical for 'Alaskan' jackets.

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Then I noticed the same feature on this Westerner which was probably made by the same manufacturer.

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Keen eye for the details as usual there Jacket Slayer! Those pockets look vaguely familiar too.

 

[Marc mndt]

Keen eye for the details as usual there Jacket Slayer! Those pockets look vaguely familiar too.
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There's another maker who used this particular pocket design. I haven't found one with a label yet but I think these were all made by the same company.

 

[tmitchell59]

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Incredible! LA Sportogs is making a name for itself again.

 

[Yamahana]

There's another maker who used this particular pocket design. I haven't found one with a label yet but I think these were all made by the same company (a different company than the one who made Alaskan labeled jackets).

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This jacket on the Bill Kelso archive page was the one that I was using on my jacket design. It was the only one I had seen at the time till you posted these others.

 

[jeo]

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These two jackets above are made by Spiewak (Golden Fleece) Here’s the catalog page from 1940-41 showing this exact jacket.

The two tone jacket is mine. Should be getting it this weekend. Here are some better pics after conditioning.

Then I noticed the same feature on this Westerner which was probably made by the same manufacturer.


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I doubt this Westerner was made by Spiewak, they look nothing alike to the other jackets and a lot of makers use that half belt construction technique as well as the same buckle (which was very common back in the day)

There's another maker who used this particular pocket design. I haven't found one with a label yet but I think these were all made by the same company (a different company than the one who made Alaskan labeled jackets).

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Except for the first one, these all look Canadian to me.

 

[Marc mndt]

These two jackets above are made by Spiewak (Golden Fleece) Here’s the catalog page from 1940-41 showing this exact jacket.

I don't think so. Imo only this brown one is a Spiewak. Note the cuffs, straight line in the advertisement, straight line on the brown one, yours and all the others have a curved cuff.

Straight on the Spiewak

Curved on yours and the Alaskans and the Westerner

Also note the angle of the placket curve, sharp on the spiewak in the advertisement and on the brown jacket.

The chest pockets are angled.

Spiewak

The angle of the curve on your jacket isn't as sharp. The chest pocket is horizontal.

Spiewak vs your jacket

I think your jacket was made by the same manufacturer who also made the Alaskans, the Westerner and the Minnesota Woolen.

Only the solid brown one is a Spiewak.

I doubt this Westerner was made by Spiewak,

I doubt it too.

as well as the same buckle (which was very common back in the day)

Can you show me one?

Except for the first one, these all look Canadian to me.

What makes you say so? I see American Talon zippers.

 

[Jasonissm]

I recognised a similar pocket design from this wool and leather combination jacket as worn by Johnny Depp, same maker? Second one has straight pockets.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

I recognised a similar pocket design from this wool and leather combination jacket as worn by Johnny Depp, same maker? Second one has straight pockets.

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It's certainly possible. My wool and leather jacket is from Spiewak/Golden Fleece with a Golden Fleece label and is extremelysimilar in colors to his jacket. Thats not daying much and I know other makers made jackets like Johnny's brown and blue jacket, but it certainly could be a Spiewak. This is all hypothetical though.

 

[jeo]

I don't think so. Imo only this brown one is a Spiewak. Note the cuffs, straight line in the advertisement, straight line on the brown one, yours and all the others have a curved cuff.

Straight on the Spiewak
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Curved on yours and the Alaskans and the Westerner
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Also note the angle of the placket curve, sharp on the spiewak in the advertisement and on the brown jacket.

The chest pockets are angled.

Spiewak
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If you’re comparing exact details from the drawing to the jackets then the brown one isn’t Spiewak either as the chest pocket angles don’t match at all. You can clearly see that in your comparison.

The angle of the curve on your jacket isn't as sharp. The chest pocket is horizontal.


Spiewak vs your jacket
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The angle of the two tone is actually closer to the drawing than the brown one…

But I see your argument here. Good job on comparing all the details. You missed an important detail that I just noticed that now has me thinking. Both examples of the Golden Fleece and the drawing have a shoulder panel.

I do think that the first Alaskan you showed and my two tone are made by the same manufacturer.

The Minnesota Woolen labeled jacket (with the same unique chest pocket stitching) threw a wrench into it all. I would have been comfortable saying Minnesota Woolen Co. made the Alaskan and my two tone but since the back design is completely different, the angle and curves of the hand warmer pocket are different and actually closer the Spiewak, and while it has the same buckle, it doesn’t have that feature where the buckle “morphs” onto the halfbelt, it’s hard for me to say that definitively.

Can you show me one?

What makes you say so? I see American Talon zippers.

The design. But I would have said that about the Minnesota Woolen labeled jacket too. Btw, the zipper was replaced on that first Alaskan.

 

[jeo]

Weirdly appropriate that a buddy of mine just bought this jacket. Another variation on the theme.

 

[Marc mndt]

You missed an important detail that I just noticed that now has me thinking. Both examples of the Golden Fleece and the drawing have a shoulder panel.

Sharp eye, I did miss that but once you see it it's obvious.

The Minnesota Woolen labeled jacket (with the same unique chest pocket stitching) threw a wrench into it all. I would have been comfortable saying Minnesota Woolen Co. made the Alaskan

I've looked into the company, I couldn't find anything leather related, zero. Maybe they just supplied the fabric for the lining. Similar to Aero and Lochcarron.

Looks like another variation on the Alaskan / Westerner jackets to me lol. What does the front look like?

I found another jacket with this buckle, the Alaskan Grizzly lol.

 

[jeo]

Sharp eye, I did miss that but once you see it it's obvious.

I've looked into the company, I couldn't find anything leather related, zero. Maybe they just supplied the fabric for the lining. Similar to Aero and Lochcarron.

My guess is vertical integration, much like Seattle Woolen.

Their main label was Weather Wise and they did a lot of leather jackets so definitely not just supplying linings.

I believe Minnesota Woolen turned into United Garment Mfg Co.

United Garment Mfg Co. (Lake o Woods)

Heres another use of that label. Aero Wear looks to be a label just like Lake o Woods and was probably made by United Garments.

Looks like another variation on the Alaskan / Westerner jackets to me lol. What does the front look like?

No picture of the front unfortunately.

 

[jeo]

Looks like another variation on the Alaskan / Westerner jackets to me lol. What does the front look like?

Here’s the IG post where I found that image. No other pics.

Sake Thaivintage on Instagram

76 likes, 0 comments - sakethaivintage on June 16, 2015

www.instagram.com

But I think I found more images of the same jacket on that page. Same exact details as on the Alaskans and the Westerner (except the cuff on the Westerner)

Sake Thaivintage on Instagram: "40’s Horsehide Leather With Ball Chan"

375 likes, 3 comments - sakethaivintage on December 29, 2020: "40’s Horsehide Leather With Ball Chan".

www.instagram.com

I also remembered seeing this one at Inspiration. Again, same details. This one has the same back design as that first Alaskan.

 

[jeo]

Eastman just posted this on their IG page. Thought this was really cool and worth sharing since Rough Wear was such a prolific maker so it’s very interesting to see that they had 200 employees, 95 of which worked in the stitching room. With 95 people putting jackets together it’s easy to see how they were able to handle making jackets for pretty much everyone! Also interesting to see they used domestic hides but also hides from France and Sweden.

 

[Marc mndt]

Their main label was Weather Wise and they did a lot of leather jackets so definitely not just supplying linings.

I watched this 1959 film of the company, no mention of anything leather related. But of course that doesn't mean that they didn't make leather jackets back in the 40s.

 

[jeo]

I watched this 1959 film of the company, no mention of anything leather related. But of course that doesn't mean that they didn't make leather jackets back in the 40s.

Huh? I just showed you two examples of their leather jackets lol

 

[Marc mndt]

Huh? I just showed you two examples of their leather jackets lol

Yeah, at first I thought they didn't do leather because of this film but you proved they did.

 

[jeo]

Yeah, at first I thought they didn't do leather because of this film but you proved they did.

Ahh gotcha, I misunderstood what you were saying

 

[Claybertrand]

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This jacket on the Bill Kelso archive page was the one that I was using on my jacket design. It was the only one I had seen at the time till you posted these others.

Hey dudes!!!
I had to pop in and I wish it was with some definitive ID info on these jackets with the distinctive angled lower front pockets.

I recently picked up a black version of this jacket so I wanted to post since I happened to see this topic evolving. Of course — my jacket has no label. In fact—- oddly it’s flannel lined and where the label was is like a glue residue. I don’t recall seeing glued on labels very often if at all. Coulda been a name tag.

Anyway— I’m gonna try to post some pics here from my phone. This jacket hasn’t been even wiped down much less conditioned at all yet so it’s a little rough but obviously great for the age.

Hopefully having a few of these in our hands will help get an ID at some point.

Sorry for the dreaded sideways pic articulation SMH….. better pics at a later date.

Cheers/Prost Bros!!!

PS: I’m sure some of you were in on this

 

[Claybertrand]

Here’s the IG post where I found that image. No other pics.

http://[URL]https://www.instagram.com/p/4AYqSSidYz/?igsh=bXY5OHVqeGFsdW1z

[/URL]


But I think I found more images of the same jacket on that page. Same exact details as on the Alaskans and the Westerner (except the cuff on the Westerner)

http://[URL]https://www.instagram.com/p/CJZJHFojC8y/?igsh=YWhvNGk5MDR5eTI5

[/URL]

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I also remembered seeing this one at Inspiration. Again, same details. This one has the same back design as that first Alaskan.

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I know these buckles are not exclusive to one maker and neither are liner materials. But the flannel liner in my black jacket is really similar to the one I see in the Instagram jacket with a fancy back. The back construction looks consistent with mine tho mine is a different design like the “Bill Kelso” jacket earlier in this thread.