Vintage Outerwear: Threads of the Past

[ton312]

The darker jacket I can wear
The other too small

One outta 2 ain’t bad for these beauties.

 

[tmitchell59]

One outta 2 ain’t bad for these beauties.

The smaller one will be going, it is also the oldest of the two, c.1938. The older gentleman is finely made and remains in fine condition. This was a popular style for the company, they had variations on this theme. I also have this style in a beautiful calf skin. The darker jacket is much simpler tailored from c.1945,46 with a zipper of that period, much plainer back construction.

Both are wearable.

 

[tmitchell59]

40 Below blew into town. First words; "omg, I have this jacket". I thought it had a similar look to a jacket I owned. I honestly haven't gotten it out to confirm. I will tomorrow. The other is labeled a Sportclad, I called it the Red, White and Blue. Darn close. This one is big, at least a 44.

 

[tmitchell59]

Ralphs-Pugh Top Notch working trousers.

 

[tmitchell59]

They are close, but different. The 40 Below is one fine fitting jacket, much larger than I thought.

 

[tmitchell59]

 

[Observe]

What is with the -Togs affix which appears on vintage clothing brands? I've seen Leather Togs, Rain Togs a couple posts up, and another Tog which currently escapes me. Anyone able to provide more info?

Edit: I googled it and it means clothes. Probably should have done that before asking, lol. I've just never heard the word before.

The question now, at the risk of derailing the thread, is why has the word seemingly fallen out of use?

 

[Corky Corcovado]

40 Below blew into town. First words; "omg, I have this jacket". I thought it had a similar look to a jacket I owned. I honestly haven't gotten it out to confirm. I will tomorrow. The other is labeled a Sportclad, I called it the Red, White and Blue. Darn close. This one is big, at least a 44.

View attachment 468843 View attachment 468844 View attachment 468845 What is the green jacket? Gabardine?

What is the green jacket? Gabardine?

 

[tmitchell59]

What is the green jacket? Gabardine?

Yes, Hercules size 44

 

[Leigh H]

I' spotted two identical jackets but with different tags.

I imagine California Sportswear was contracted to create the same jacket for Sears brand Hercules?

Just thought id share!



California Sportswear

Hercules

 

[tmitchell59]

What is with the -Togs affix which appears on vintage clothing brands? I've seen Leather Togs, Rain Togs a couple posts up, and another Tog which currently escapes me. Anyone able to provide more info?

Edit: I googled it and it means clothes. Probably should have done that before asking, lol. I've just never heard the word before.

The question now, at the risk of derailing the thread, is why has the word seemingly fallen out of use?

It is an older term that was very popular in the 30s/40s. Probably became too "old fashioned"

 

[tmitchell59]

I' spotted two identical jackets but with different tags.

I imagine California Sportswear was contracted to create the same jacket for Sears brand Hercules?

Just thought id share!



California Sportswear

Hercules

Excellent example of CSC making jackets for Sears this relationship goes back to the 1930s. These jackets c.1949.

 

[ton312]

I have fixed everything. Pocket welt, loose HB strap, polished the leather and hardware. This one is an absolute heartbreaker. Definitely a Hercules, hardware is absolutely mint. I don’t how you do it Terry. When I have one like this that doesn’t fit it makes me furiously angry. Jacket feels 50 years younger than when I opened the box. The temptation to have Dena lengthen the sleeves is strong but probably not worth it.

 

[Yamahana]

I have fixed everything. Pocket welt, loose HB strap, polished the leather and hardware. This one is an absolute heartbreaker. Definitely a Hercules, hardware is absolutely mint. I don’t how you do it Terry. When I have one like this that doesn’t fit it makes me furiously angry. Jacket feels 50 years younger than when I opened the box. The temptation to have Dena lengthen the sleeves is strong but probably not worth it.
View attachment 471548 View attachment 471549

Fantastic resurrection there Ton. I feel your pain, I’m with you when one of these vintage gems don’t quite fit. It was already relined, you brought it back from the dead, one of the best pocket designs, no more than you’ve got in it $$$ I’d send it to Dena to lengthen the sleeves.

 

[ton312]

Fantastic resurrection there Ton. I feel your pain, I’m with you when one of these vintage gems don’t quite fit. It was already relined, you brought it back from the dead, one of the best pocket designs, no more than you’ve got in it $$$ I’d send it to Dena to lengthen the sleeves.

Liner is perfect. Brand new. I found that odd b/c there were issues that would’ve been far easier to fix without the liner in it. It did have a seam separation in the pit which helped me fix the above and then arch this small hole.

 

[Will Zach]

I have been trying to find info about the Spiegel HH MC jacket. Spiegel was a catalog company https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spiegel_(US_retailer), along with Sears, Montgomery Ward and others. I managed to go through a few Spiegel catalogs (http://www.wishbookweb.com/FB/1955_Spiegel_Christmas_Catalog/files/assets/basic-html/page-1.html#) but could not find this jacket:

I now found an image of a page from Alden's 1950s catalog with very similar jackets - collar geometry slightly different, belt and front sleeve zips (slightly shorter). These could be differences specified by the respective catalog houses.

Do you think same maker made these jackets for Spiegel and Alden's?

 

[ton312]

I have been trying to find info about the Spiegel HH MC jacket. Spiegel was a catalog company https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spiegel_(US_retailer), along with Sears, Montgomery Ward and others. I managed to go through a few Spiegel catalogs (http://www.wishbookweb.com/FB/1955_Spiegel_Christmas_Catalog/files/assets/basic-html/page-1.html#) but could not find this jacket:

View attachment 486264

I now found an image of a page from Alden's 1950s catalog with very similar jackets - collar geometry slightly different, belt and front sleeve zips (slightly shorter). These could be differences specified by the respective catalog houses.

Do you think same maker made these jackets for Spiegel and Alden's?

View attachment 486265

Could well be though the the collar and lapel both have snaps in the catalog shot. That said they do appear identical in every other respect. I think it’s safe to assume yes but there is still that little bit of mystery lingering.

 

[tmitchell59]

United Sportswear San Francisco

 

[mullitt]

Added two jackets to my collection this week.
First, this Windward:

Great condition. Was dried out when I got it, and the leather was thirsty. I treated it with Obenaufs and it looks good now.
Also got this Monarch:

Leather’s good on this one, but needs to be treated. The cuffs and waistband are disintegrating. Need to decide what I want to do with it. Couldn’t pass it up though, it was only $50.

 

[tmitchell59]

Two nice buys! Congratulations!

I've owned a couple of these style Windwards, both were fine quality heavy horsehide. This style was also used by Aldens, and JC Penney, but different makers.

This is one jacket I wish I could have worn, never seen another like it. All The Windwards I have seen have been brown, some also had the detachable collar, some had a fixed fur collar.