Vintage Outerwear: Threads of the Past

[JMax]

The oldest Taubers I own, dated by zipper mid 1940s. Knob Hill label with only Genuine leather on label and size 44 tag attached. It is Horsehide and a substantial hide. Pictured with an early 60s Horsehide pullover also a 44. This is the largest sized I have seen for sale.


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Taubers are incredible jackets. Every time I see one, no matter the style, I have to stop and look.

Do you still have that made in SF jacket with the Mission Street label? I can’t recall if the back design was like a HB, a la the early Hercs or even Trojan. I am having a hard time finding the photos you posted of it.

 

[tmitchell59]

Do you still have that made in SF jacket with the Mission Street label? I can’t recall if the back design was like a HB

Interesting this jacket is easily a size 46

Taubers are incredible jackets. Every time I see one, no matter the style, I have to stop and look.

Taubers are gems in plain sight. The company spanned 40 years and produced a variety of outerwear. I'm quite sure another unique jacket will appear.

 

[JMax]

Interesting this jacket is easily a size 46


Taubers are gems in plain sight. The company spanned 40 years and produced a variety of outerwear. I'm quite sure another unique jacket will appear.

That’s the one. Okay, I forgot about the side straps to cinch it up a bit. I will save these pictures for my database. Thanks.

 

[tmitchell59]

Forgot I had this Taubers.

 

[JMax]

I showed my wife your comment about the variety of jackets in my closet. Typically, she responded that you are crazy and that all my black jackets look the same. And here I thought she may turn a corner after hearing from a true connoisseur.

 

[tmitchell59]

"

I showed my wife your comment about the variety of jackets in my closet. Typically, she responded that you are crazy and that all my black jackets look the same. And here I thought she may turn a corner after hearing from a true connoisseur.

I agree, they can "all look the same". This leads me into a new project; examining the various differences/similarities between the brands, breaking down like this: East Coast-West Coast-Mid west.

We have documented both Coast and they have a very different look and approach. The mid-west is a bit more vague outside of Buco, but we have made inroads there too. HD jackets, Appalachian, Monarch, Fried-Ostermann.

When you lay out jackets from all three areas you can see very distinct differences.

How many D pockets on east coast jackets?
Sewn on belt or separate?

We can further develop this. Start your thinking Caps.

 

[tmitchell59]

Love for the SPORTCLAD

 

[Monitor]

Love for the SPORTCLAD

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Best!

 

[Bonasera]

Interesting this jacket is easily a size 46
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Taubers are gems in plain sight. The company spanned 40 years and produced a variety of outerwear. I'm quite sure another unique jacket will appear.

This is my black jacket of mission leather sportswear size 40.
similar design but this has waist belt and small buckel in the front.

 

[Marc mndt]

From left to right :

80s CHP unknown maker, steerhide
Late 40s Kit Karson, horsehide
50s Appalachian, horsehide
50s Windward, steerhide
50s Hercules, steerhide

 

[tmitchell59]

From left to right :

80s CHP unknown maker, steerhide
Late 40s Kit Karson, horsehide
50s Appalachian, horsehide
50s Windward, steerhide
50s Hercules, steerhide

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Very nice collection! Thanks for the efforts, I know well the efforts. Post you beautiful half-belt collection here too.

Classic labels.

This thread has become quite an achieve of vintage jackets. Each page contains a gem. Much can be learned here, knowledge that isn't available anywhere else that I know of. Documenting with pictures is so important.

 

[Marc mndt]

Very nice collection! Thanks for the efforts, I know well the efforts. Post you beautiful half-belt collection here too.

It does indeed take some effort but I really enjoy doing it.

Looking at them from the right angle these jackets become a form of art.

Here's the halfbelts.

From left to right:

40s Albert Richard (horsehide)
40s The Bon Marché (horsehide)
40s Hercules (horsehide)
50s Californian (steerhide)
40s Windward (horsehide)

 

[tmitchell59]

This is my black jacket of mission leather sportswear size 40.
similar design but this has waist belt and small buckel in the front. View attachment 428191 View attachment 428192 View attachment 428193 View attachment 428194 View attachment 428196 View attachment 428198

Wow! Thanks for posting this Beauty! I found Mission Leather in the San Francisco City directory. I don't recall the exact date, but certainly late 1930s. They were located on Mission Street, the location of the leather industry during those times in SF. This is only the second jacket I have seen. Another member had one. They were a small shop and I don't recall how long they were listed. (I've got all this somewhere, too much to recall) Surprising that more of their labels don't show up. They could well have used other labels or non-labeled jackets.

I downloaded your pictures examining the attached belt. It is most unusual and turns the jacket into a 50s look and the jacket was not made in the 50s. Like mine, made in the 1939-41. My first reaction is the removal of the side straps and addition of a sewn on belt.

The lining has been replaced in the area that belt loops are attached. This could be wear of course, but has a different look to me.

You can see how the side belts are attached on my jacket, the location. Is there any indication of these being removed from your jacket? The attached belt and loops looked to be well done Pro work, do you note anything in that construction?

I need to look at some pics of the era and see if I can find such an attached belt.

 

[JMax]

This is my black jacket of mission leather sportswear size 40.
similar design but this has waist belt and small buckel in the front. View attachment 428191 View attachment 428192 View attachment 428193 View attachment 428194 View attachment 428196 View attachment 428198

Spectacular. Special jacket. I lost out on one of their jackets years ago. I puttered, I piddled, I lost out on it. Still looking. Still angry. Please reach out to me if you ever lose your mind and decide to sell. Lol.

 

[JMax]

Wow! Thanks for posting this Beauty! I found Mission Leather in the San Francisco City directory. I don't recall the exact date, but certainly late 1930s. They were located on Mission Street, the location of the leather industry during those times in SF. This is only the second jacket I have seen. Another member had one. They were a small shop and I don't recall how long they were listed. (I've got all this somewhere, too much to recall) Surprising that more of their labels don't show up. They could well have used other labels or non-labeled jackets.

I downloaded your pictures examining the attached belt. It is most unusual and turns the jacket into a 50s look and the jacket was not made in the 50s. Like mine, made in the 1939-41. My first reaction is the removal of the side straps and addition of a sewn on belt.

The lining has been replaced in the area that belt loops are attached. This could be wear of course, but has a different look to me.

You can see how the side belts are attached on my jacket, the location. Is there any indication of these being removed from your jacket? The attached belt and loops looked to be well done Pro work, do you note anything in that construction?

I need to look at some pics of the era and see if I can find such an attached belt.

I think you can see where the side straps were removed. I much prefer this look to the jacket. My first reaction was a later Mission jacket, a transitional jacket between eras. But now I think you are right. Exceptional nonetheless.

 

[JMax]

Damn @Marc mndt you are like a jacket sommelier. Great taste. Great jackets.

 

[tmitchell59]

I think you can see where the side straps were removed. I much prefer this look to the jacket. My first reaction was a later Mission jacket, a transitional jacket between eras. But now I think you are right. Exceptional nonetheless.

It has the look of this early 50s CSW jacket, basically an Aviator Style converted to MC with the sewn on front belt

 

[JMax]

It has the look of this early 50s CSW jacket, basically an Aviator Style converted to MC with the sewn on front belt

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Yes. That’s it. Aside from Hercs, Gamma’s Lawrence has the HB, attached belt duo too. Another jacket I have yet to see again. With that huge patch pocket in front.

 

[dannyk]

Yes. That’s it. Aside from Hercs, Gamma’s Lawrence has the HB, attached belt duo too. Another jacket I have yet to see again. With that huge patch pocket in front.

Gammas is drool worthy. You never see those come up thing of beauty.

 

[tmitchell59]

Gammas is drool worthy. You never see those come up thing of beauty.

This is the first generation Hercules with sewn on half-belt and sewn on front belt. The second generation wool lined dropped the sewn on half-belt.

2nd generation Hercules minus half-belt in back-wool lined