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Vintage Outerwear: Threads of the Past

tmitchell59

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Albert Richard goes back to the 20s/30s. I assume they were a label and not a maker.

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tmitchell59

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I guess Thedi got inspired by this label. View attachment 286959

He certainly knows his jackets. He chose a great label to work from. I would think all the makers have a good vision of the past. The California Sportswear label has seen much use in reprint jackets. I've seen a rendition of the Golden Bear label in Japan. RMC has used some interesting label variations.
 

tmitchell59

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I copied this from another thread. A very interesting discussion of the inspiration and creation of this Johnson Bros. jacket. Excellent reading if you are interested in how this Iconic jackets come back to life.

http://blog-jkstyle.jugem.jp/?eid=2932#gsc.tab=0

Bellow is the page of the thread I copied in it's entirety. The first Video is just too cool, he opens the video playing a 1952 Gibson acoustic guitar. The Japanese love their guitars too. I sold several to Japan and probably bought a couple during my guitar trading days.



Great fit and interesting leather!
Dappers make the same jacket in smooth leather

https://www.instagram.com/p/CIX9Lfjjr1X/?igshid=zdkgneukjsgx

https://dappers.jp/category/leather-jacket/

http://blog-jkstyle.jugem.jp/?eid=2932#gsc.tab=0
 

lina

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Washington DC
This is probably the oldest jacket I own. It has no label. This back button style is most often associated with the Stanhouse company of Rockford, Illinois. Stanhouse was in business many years and made a variety of outerwear. I have a later Stanhouse jacket in my collection.

View attachment 286946 View attachment 286947 View attachment 286948 View attachment 286949 It looks like a common "work wear" jacket. It is horsehide. It has lost the original lining, although many early jackets were unlined.
A beauty! A modern jacket that would get one close to this is the Aero Mulligan:

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lina

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Also, Langlitz has recently revived the button down leather jacket with knitted collar and cuffs, similar to the patterns in the Sears ad.

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tmitchell59

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This is the ebay auction ID for the Peters. I was bidding so my page showed up on a normal link. Just run this on ebay and you will see the page.

I doubt I will be at the finish. Great Bay Area piece/great MC piece. That adds up to expensive.

333814147384

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tmitchell59

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Thank you for stepping up to start a vintage thread, Terry. I have more interest in vintage leather jackets than contemporary jackets. I have a few jackets I will share when I get the time

Thanks to You and All for joining in.I look forward to your jackets and familiar with your interest. I know there is much ahead. I have many ideas, many jackets, many questions. I know I am not alone, even as our interest narrow.

You are near the Bedrock of my lust, Right? Mission St. San Francisco. Styled and Made in California. This is so much of my focus on vintage jackets, drawn to this whole West Coast. Oregon with Thurlow Leather, Langlitz Leather, Seattle Woolen. Yes the whole West Coast

I look forward to your and familiar with your interest.


DSC09516.JPG


I failed to date this entry, I recall c.1935

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Cornelius

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Great Lakes
This is probably the oldest jacket I own. It has no label. This back button style is most often associated with the Stanhouse company of Rockford, Illinois. Stanhouse was in business many years and made a variety of outerwear. I have a later Stanhouse jacket in my collection.

View attachment 286946 It looks like a common "work wear" jacket. It is horsehide. It has lost the original lining, although many early jackets were unlined.

This jacket, for me, is near perfection. Add flaps over the lower cargo pockets, a slant & zip to the left chest pocket, shoulder gussets, and a half-belt across where the adjuster tabs lay, and BOOM! That's the coat I’ve been hunting.

The collar deserves special attention - no current maker is replicating one quite like that - exceptionally high, and buttoned close.

Were I a betting man, I'd wager this jacket was made for foundry workers - hard wearing horsehide, and that high, tight collar to keep sparks from shooting down your coat. Or railroad firemen, for similar reasons. Located on the first rail line built west from Chicago, Rockford used to be big for steel & heavy manufacturing, back in the day, until Wall Street moved all that offshore (only area in Illinois you'll ever see flags for the Pittsburgh Steelers football team - many families had moved over from Pennsylvania, following the foundry work). Apart from the Jeep/Chrysler plant in Belvidere, I believe the only related regional industry still alive from that era is Wahl hair clippers, located about 50 miles down along the Rock River in Sterling, Illinois.

Anyway, sweet jacket. How did you come across it, @tmitchell59?
 

tmitchell59

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This jacket, for me, is near perfection. Add flaps over the lower cargo pockets, a slant & zip to the left chest pocket, shoulder gussets, and a half-belt across where the adjuster tabs lay, and BOOM! That's the coat I’ve been hunting.

The collar deserves special attention - no current maker is replicating one quite like that - exceptionally high, and buttoned close.

Were I a betting man, I'd wager this jacket was made for foundry workers - hard wearing horsehide, and that high, tight collar to keep sparks from shooting down your coat. Or railroad firemen, for similar reasons. Located on the first rail line built west from Chicago, Rockford used to be big for steel & heavy manufacturing, back in the day, until Wall Street moved all that offshore (only area in Illinois you'll ever see flags for the Pittsburgh Steelers football team - many families had moved over from Pennsylvania, following the foundry work). Apart from the Jeep/Chrysler plant in Belvidere, I believe the only related regional industry still alive from that era is Wahl hair clippers, located about 50 miles down along the Rock River in Sterling, Illinois.

Anyway, sweet jacket. How did you come across it, @tmitchell59?

I believe I found that jacket on ebay several years ago. I don't recall where it came from.

This one is on ebay now

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vtg-1930s-...all/233766148797?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144

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tmitchell59

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I do not have a large budget to buy jackets so I need to be selective. Even though I envision keeping the Ralphs Pugh to my grave I do not like to pay more than I would receive on a quick turnaround.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vtg-1940s-...rge/233663916734?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144

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You will smile if you own this jacket and will never consider a "quick turnaround". This would be the Keeper for your Bay Area collection. You would not need to search further, but you probably will. You will want another, but you kinda save $ because they don't come around often. I own one.

This seller has the finest collection of American made Vintage leather, most of it in outstanding condition and it sells. The way the garments are creased I think they have been bundled. They recently sold a near mint Ralphs-Pugh 50s Steerhide half-belt around size 42. I had owned a similar jacket but returned for issues.
 

tmitchell59

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^
Pricing in Vintage Leather is difficult because there are often few or no comparable and scant information on some Brands

In this case I think Langlitz is comparable. I see Langlitz in Ralphs-Pugh jackets.

What would a near mint 1948 Horsehide Langlitz sell for?
 

tmitchell59

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Yes, I'm pretty sure those come from clothing bales.

They regularly get American leather jackets and very rare european ones.

Do you know this seller/company? I just noticed I posted two back two back vintage jackets from the same seller.

They still get these Bales? How very interesting.

Thanks!
 

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