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Vintage Outerwear: Threads of the Past

Messages
17,475
Location
Chicago
All those fancy details are nice but in the end it's all about the fit.

This jacket fits like a glove, like it was custom made for me. What a gem. Definitely a grail jacket.

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Outstanding Marc!! As disappointed as I was this didn’t fit me, reading your review and seeing how it fits you more than makes up for it. It is such a stunning piece. The nicest I’ve laid hands on in my entire collecting life. I am so happy to read your words and share in your appreciation of this remarkable jacket. To me, this is the quintessential leather jacket. The best of the best in all measurable ways. New or vintage, this jacket reigns supreme.
 
Messages
17,475
Location
Chicago
I look forward to posting some in hand shots of these two. First up, this monarch, with Dena at the moment to undergo a bit of surgery to correct the length. Might be a bit controversial, as altering a vintage jacket like this is admittedly a bit taboo. I have confidence in the result. At nearly 33”, the front length is simply far too long.
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The jacket below, Daniel Boone, just left Australia this AM. Another spongebob square pocket, with gathered sides/Halfbelt vs the low adjustment straps my Herc had. I’ve never had anything with a Daniel Boone label, I’m curious.
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tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,700
Location
Illinois
Thanks for relating those details. We will all be looking at our Collars! I have. Most I see have a center seam, and they often fail.

I currently own a horsehide Albert Richard Sears B-15 style. I have ideas on other jackets they may have made for the Catalogs. Their history is long, no doubt they had a hand in many leathers produced through they years.

I could not fit this jacket. I love the lining. It now reminds me of a Hercules MC jacket lining. This is another example of fine Horsehide. This is a mid 40 zipper.


Here is the Made in California Hercules

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Yamahana

One Too Many
Messages
1,044
Location
Buckeye, Arizona
Not sure where to put this post— I was doing a bit of research into Nelco and found this amazing history of the man who founded the company (sewing machines). Worth the read.

https://www.stillstitching.com/2018/12/necchi-nelco-elna-leon-jolson.html?m=1
Thanks for posting this, I love these histories of the good ole days. These stories are as much a part of what connects me to vintage wear as the items themselves. It’s also good to remember how tough most of the generations before us had it. I’m a sissy with an easy life compared to these tough men and women.
Makes me want to go out and buy a Nelco sewing machine.
 
Messages
10,598
Absolutely. Being “a part” of these stories does draw me to vintage jackets. I wonder if there is some sort of connection between the outfits. I’ve seen Nelco Bilt labels and the Nelco citation labels.
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,700
Location
Illinois
First up, this monarch, with Dena at the moment to undergo a bit of surgery to correct the length. Might be a bit controversial, as altering a vintage jacket like this is admittedly a bit taboo. I have confidence in the result. At nearly 33”, the front length is simply far too long

I look forward to your modifications. This was a popular style for Monarch. The gathered sides replaced the belted sides, some had light linings, some quilt. All with French seams. This is one in need of help.

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Messages
17,475
Location
Chicago
I look forward to your modifications. This was a popular style for Monarch. The gathered sides replaced the belted sides, some had light linings, some quilt. All with French seams. This is one in need of help.

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Fingers crossed I have it by Saturday or early next week! The hide on mine is just beautiful. Thick horse and thick nylon quilt liner. And yes all French seams! Has the potential to be my go to piece. The anticipation is killing me. Mine also has shoulders pads, which Dena will remove.
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,700
Location
Illinois
I have that mechanics special that my be a good candidate for modification. It is a size 44 at least.

I owned that Monarch you are modifying. It is indeed a beauty.
 

jonbuilder

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,563
Location
Grass Valley CA Foothills
Two 1950s Horsehide Langlitz
I do not find much posting on Langlitz made by Ross so going first a green label Columbia size 42 that looks like it was made last year not seventy years ago. This is Ross Lnaglitz fourth label used 1950 -1956 and the first "Langlitz Leathers" label
But what I like about the early Speed Togs and Langlitz jackets is they were entirely made by one single person Ross Langlitz.
Note the Columbia does not have an extended lower back panel.

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Early horsehide Cascade with Coat Clark (Crown) zip. The jacket is in remarkable condition The horsehide is IMO nicer than Columbia hide with a soft hand. It fits a comfortable size 44. I stole this jacket at just under 40% of what the green label Columbia cost. If my house was burning and I was to grab one jacket on the way out it would be this one.

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Messages
10,598
Two 1950s Horsehide Langlitz
I do not find much posting on Langlitz made by Ross so going first a green label Columbia size 42 that looks like it was made last year not seventy years ago. This is Ross Lnaglitz fourth label used 1950 -1956 and the first "Langlitz Leathers" label
But what I like about the early Speed Togs and Langlitz jackets is they were entirely made by one single person Ross Langlitz.
Note the Columbia does not have an extended lower back panel.

View attachment 360751 View attachment 360752 View attachment 360753 View attachment 360754 View attachment 360755 View attachment 360756

Early horsehide Cascade with Coat Clark (Crown) zip. The jacket is in remarkable condition The horsehide is IMO nicer than Columbia hide with a soft hand. It fits a comfortable size 44. I stole this jacket at just under 40% of what the green label Columbia cost. If my house was burning and I was to grab one jacket on the way out it would be this one.

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I’ve been eyeing a possible HH cascade, but that Columbia is the best I’ve seen. The early ones had a distinct and amazing look to them.
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,700
Location
Illinois
Sierra Sportswear-I just love the fit of this jacket. Notice it has the blackened Zippers!

What I know about the Label:

Another of my favorite jackets is a Sierra Sportswear half-belt. High quality Horsehide. I have thought that Sierra was a label and not a maker, but I'm not so sure now. (I love their label) I have seen Sierra jackets in advertising along with other West Coast makers, making me think they were a maker located in northern California.

Very few of their jackets show up. Also makes me think they were a small regional maker. I'm not sure how closely I have researched the label.

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