Vintage Outerwear: Threads of the Past

[JMax]

Shot of Cycle Champ page from Tanaka’s HD book:

 

[tmitchell59]

A Best Fitting jacket tucked in closet. I thought about selling this, but where am I going to find a better jacket in this Style? This I say is mine and declare category closed! I have one jacket left in this category and will have to leave. It just doesn't have the fit like this Uniform. Also an excellent example of heaviest leather I have found on any Vintage jacket. I had a runner up, but was sold. Lost Like my Lost Worlds Test, feels like it on.

 

[ton312]

A tale of two vintage halfbelts. Both are a size 42”. One is essentially new, the other is well worn indeed.
I’ll start with the Cal-craft. I have not encountered this label before. It’s a beautiful jacket. Something of a time capsule, condition wise. It came to me as essentially new. Ridiculously clean, beautiful black pony, pale gold liner, locking serval zip. Quintessential 40’s (?) Halfbelt. I’m considering offering this one for trade. My Star Sportswear is nearly identical and just fits a bit better. Not sure. I don’t think I’ll find another this clean. And that collar…

Fit pics of course!
I can get this one zipped but it’s trim!

 

[ton312]

Chrome tanned Californian. Syrup like cowhide, insane in the grain, wear to the liner and the hide as you’d expect. This one is more a time traveler than time capsule.
Shows it’s age beautifully. Nice broad cut shoulders, lower arm holes, crazy short back and massive front drop. Plenty of character on this guy.

 

[ton312]

Better light, I do look forward to wearing this one.

 

[Monitor]

A tale of two vintage halfbelts. Both are a size 42”. One is essentially new, the other is well worn indeed.
I’ll start with the Cal-craft. I have not encountered this label before. It’s a beautiful jacket. Something of a time capsule, condition wise. It came to me as essentially new. Ridiculously clean, beautiful black pony, pale gold liner, locking serval zip. Quintessential 40’s (?) Halfbelt. I’m considering offering this one for trade. My Star Sportswear is nearly identical and just fits a bit better. Not sure. I don’t think I’ll find another this clean. And that collar…
View attachment 357489 View attachment 357490 View attachment 357491 View attachment 357492
Fit pics of course!
I can get this one zipped but it’s trim!
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This black shirt x leather jacket look is really cool!

 

[Jimmy Shinki]

Better light, I do look forward to wearing this one.
View attachment 357508

Damn Ton, where are you finding these beauties?! Slim pickings here in Australia on the vintage front. Congrats mate, awesome jackets.

 

[JMax]

Fidelity HH

 

[JMax]

Sears:

 

[JMax]

Cal:

 

[JMax]

Windward

 

[JMax]

Magic carpet ride Cal

 

[Marc mndt]

After three weeks of anticipation the Albert Richard finally arrived today. Courtesy of @ton312 . My first observation when I took it out of the box: this jacket feels extremely solid. Solid like it was made yesterday. Also, lots of fancy construction details. I sent a couple of pictures to Greg Field and he pointed out some fancy construction techniques that I didn't even notice myself. What a quality piece. This must have been the the Thedi of its time.

I'm able to zip it up without having to hold my breath, but it's definitely a tshirt only fit. Sleeves are short. Some people would say too short but I think I can make it work. I asked my gf and she told me they are fine.

Full review with fit pics will follow later this week.

 

[tmitchell59]

Call me when you need to pass it on.

 

[tmitchell59]

I sent a couple of pictures to Greg Field and he pointed out some fancy construction techniques that I didn't even notice myself.

What did Greg point out? They made jackets for Sears and I believe one other catalog.

 

[JMax]

Call me when you need to pass it on.

This may sound crazy, but I’m considering putting some patches on this jacket. Stuff that means something to me.

 

[tmitchell59]

This is one Jacket that will be restored. Lampelt-Boston MA

Stitching issues on both sleeves and back yoke, original Crown zipper in need of some work. The Horsehide is in excellent condtion, no issues. The sheep lining is bad at the neck. It probably measures to a todays 46. It is big. I love this jacket, when repaired it will give years of service. c.1940, I relate the company name to vintage Grizzly jackets.

 

[tmitchell59]

This may sound crazy, but I’m considering putting some patches on this jacket. Stuff that means something to me.

putting your Brand on the Hide makes it yours, I've had thoughts about Spots.

 

[Marc mndt]

40s / 50s Albert Richard

Thanks to my Chicago connection I have once more been able to get the best product across the pond. Prime quality. They best of the best.

Here's a link to an article about the company's history.

It's difficult if not impossible to get a true feeling of the quality of this jacket without having handled it in the flesh. The second you have it in your hands, you know it's absolute luxury. A luxurious feeling that can't be captured in words. Anyway, I'll do my best to point out some of the the quality aspects by comparing the jacket to a Windward halfbelt from the same era. Which is a nice jacket, but the Albert Richard is major league.

The jacket is made out of 'Satintan select front quarter horsehide, tanned by Superior'. I don't know what that means but the leather is thick yet supple and has a nice and deep chestnut brown color. It holds nice sleeve creases / rolls unlike the Windward, which is made out of much thinner horsehide.

The most striking feature is the one piece collar, which is something I've never seen before. As you can see the leather is folded over with the ends sewn together on the back side. The collar lacks a center back seam. The result is a collar that drapes much better and feels more comfortable because there are only two layers of leather instead of the four as seen on a collar that's constructed the traditional way.

It's a three piece sleeve construction with eyelets for ventilating the pits.

Gathered sides on the Windward vs buckled straps on the Albert Richard.

Both the body and the sleeves are lined with thick and luxurious quilted satin. There's not a single loose thread to be found, which is amazing considering it's a 75 year old jacket. The pits are reinforced with thick cotton drill.

If you look closely you can see that the main zipper isn't backed with a leather strip on the inside, which allows the slider to go up and down more easily.

 

[Marc mndt]

All those fancy details are nice but in the end it's all about the fit.

This jacket fits like a glove, like it was custom made for me. What a gem. Definitely a grail jacket.