Vintage Kimonos

[LaMedicine]

I believe many of you are interested in kimonos.
I just finished uploading some pics of my mother’s kimonos. Since many of them date back to the ‘40s, they can be considered vintage, though here in Japan, kimonos considered truly vintage go back to the ‘20s-‘30s for the connoisseurs. There is a distinct difference in construction between pre ‘50s kimono and post ‘50s kimono, and my mother’s kimono span this period, so the pics will show some of the characteristics.
One thing to note, though. Kimonos can be and are, unraveled, roughly sewn into the original bolt without any missing pieces, washed, then sewn back together. This means that even if the kimono fabric dates back to a certain period, if it has been washed, refreshed and re-sewn at a later date, then re-sewn kimono may very well not retain the original characteristic of its original period. There are some kimonos in my mother’s wardrobe that have gone through this.
Here’s the link to the vintage kimono album.
Vintage Kimono

Along with it is another album of me in kimonos, from toddlerhood to now, which may help further your knowledge of kimonos.
Kimonos!!

I hope you’ll enjoy.

 

[Laura Chase]

Oh wow, I hope it's okay that I'm posting my favorite one here, I'm particularly fond of crane motifs on kimonos, and this one is stunning, I love that it's black and that the motif is restricted to the bottom part.

I also have a kimono with red silk lining. It's purple silk with peony, paulownia, crane and fan motifs on it. The motifs are both dyed and embroidered, and the textile is just wonderful. The sleeves are quite long. Is it possible to narrow down the dating a bit? I can understand from you that this can be difficult. I just know it's pre WWII.

 

[LaMedicine]

It's fine to post your favorite one.
I thought of posting the pics here, but just couldn't see myself doing so without a bulk uploader lol

Yours probably can be narrowed down to mid '20s to early '30s, the size of the individual motifs and the way they are scattered are similar to what I've seen in kimono pics and illustrations from that period. Look up Taisho Chic/Showa Modern and you may come up with something. This is the period where Asian influence appears in Art Deco and Art Deco influences Japanese arts and textiles.

 

[Vintage Betty]

LaMedicine -

Thank you for taking the time and trouble to photograph all these wonderful items! I *know* how long it took you.

Which one is your favorite? When do you wear them?

I was gifted with a custom cotton Yukata when I was younger, and when I went to college, I hung it on my wall. My roommate, walking into the room and not seeing me for the first time, assumed I was Japanese! lol

Vintage Betty

 

[LaMedicine]

I have added a few obi/sash to the album. I have a few more obi to add, but haven't photographed them yet.

Vintage Betty, my favorite is this one.

My mother often wore it with this obi.

I can't wear any of them without at least altering the length since I top my mother by about 3 1/2 inches. Though kimono length is far more adaptable for height than western clothes because of the allowance for tucking up at the hips, 3 inches difference is about the limit, and the added 1/2 inch is no help
Altering kimono length is not that difficult, as the extra length of fabric is sewn tucked in at the waistline and not cut off. However, I am loath of touching any of the kimonos for alterations as that means that the original linings will have to be removed, and new linings used due to the added length.

 

[Lareesie Ladavi]

I love those!!!

I don't have any vintage Kimonos, but I have a ton of Kimono stlye tops and asian-inspired dresses. I love anything with mandarin collars and kimono sleeves...oh and I can't forget the brocades!

 

[Grant Fan]

OMG I love them all. I think your favorite might also be mine but I'm not sure they are all so beautiful. I looked into buying on when I was in Japan the last two weeks, but they were so expensive, and I coudln't figure out where I would ever wear one. But then are all so lovely.

 

[LaMedicine]

Yes, kimonos are expensive *sigh* Lucky that I have enough income to aquire *reasonably* priced ones.

Kimonos are bascially handcrafted, and each one is an individual and unique product in most cases, especially vintage ones.
Each one is a work of art, of basically one craftsman in some cases, or a number of craftsmen who specialise in the various stages of kimono designing, hand painting, dyeing, embroidery, gold gilting, etc in other cases. Some of the "ori", weave design kimonos are often hand dyed, and hand-loomed to this day. It's like wearing a work of art on your person instead of displaying it on canvas, or as tapestry on a wall. In fact, many Japanese artists are known to have painted kimonos for their wives and daughters.
When I think of all the labor that goes into producing a kimono, and of how time consuming it can be, and when I think how the sales of kimono must support the lives of these many people involved, I can't really complain about the overall price. I mean, if it takes an experienced weaver a week to finish one bolt , and add to that the preparations before the thread is brought to the loom-- spinning, as there are still hand spun threads, dyeing so the finished fabric will be patterned instead of a solid color, etc--well...one bolt of kimono fabric may have to support a week or two, sometimes a month, of at least one person's life.

When we aquire a kimono, they are, as a rule sold either as a kimono bolt, or in roughly sewn to show off the "eba" design (I've put up an explanation of what "eba" design is in the album). The customer chooses the kimono, also chooses the material for the "hakkake (susomawashi)", the lining of the bottom half, and then has it sewn into a kimono. Kimono design can be order from scratch, in other words, the customer will talk over with the kimono merchant what color and motif one wants, and the merchant will arrange for a white bolt of material to be designed and dyed as the customer requests. That was how my mother's '60s kimono were ordered. The kimono merchant showed my mother samples of fabric and colors and motifs, and she chose the combination of the base color and the motif, which were then dyed on order. This would also have been the case with her older Yuzen dye kimonos.
Also, since silk is delicate, kimono are sewn by hand, as well, and when I say hand-sewn, I don't mean with sewing machines, I mean every stich is sewn by hand. That takes a few days to a week, too, even wtih experienced seamstresses.

So, there is a lot of sweat behind one beautiful, good kimono. I don't really mind the cost, I feel that I am supporting a craft that otherwise would be lost.

Well, there are plenty of nice inexpensive kimonos on eBay good for a collection, maybe. However, from my personal experience in looking at the merchandise displayed in recycled kimono shops, I get the feeling that the really good ones are still kept by the original owners, and passed down to their daughters and daughters-in-law.

P.S. I have explanations of the terms I have used here in the album that I have linked.

 

[Mrs. Merl]

Thank you so very much for starting this thread. I cannot tell you how fascinated I have become with kimono. I was interested before, but with the information you have provided me and to the forum, I have found there is so much to learn. Thank you LaMedicine!

 

[LaMedicine]

I have added a few more obi/sash photos.

 

[julia]

I bought a Kimono in a small store in Harajuku last year and during transit back to the states, some of the stitching unraveled at the shoulder. What sort of thread should I use to sew it back together? I was afraid of ruining it so I haven't fixed it yet. Would cotton work? I got it for only ￥3500 because it was used, but I think it is absolutely beautiful. I love all of your kimono's. The pictures of you and your family look wonderful. Your mom looked so pretty!

 

[LaMedicine]

julia, thank you for your compliments.

If the kimono is silk (which it probably is, unless it's a yukata), then you should repair it with silk thread because silk threads slide smoothly along the material, while cotton threads get caught and pull the material. Do not use a sewing machine, you must sew it by hand. Silk threads for sewing machines are finer than those for sewing by hand. You need to get threads that are for hemming, which are slightly heavier than machine threads, but finer than button threads. You also need to use needles that are specifically for silk--needles for cotton and wool have eyes that are slightly larger than the body of the needle, but silk needles have eyes that are slightly narrower than the body of the needle.

 

[julia]

thank you! I have only sewed cotton so I had no idea how to deal with this. I am glad I didn't try to repair it.[huh]

 

[LaMedicine]

You're welcome.

My mother, taken 1956.

wearing this combo.

 

[carter]

Ladies, This is a beautiful thread! :eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap

 

[LaMedicine]

carter, thank you

 

[LaMedicine]

Kimono maintenance, repair and storage

In Japan, there are craftsmen who specialize in kimono maintenance and repair. This does not mean just cleaning and sewing, it also includes taking out stains, re-touching the hand painted motifs, and changing the base colors of the fabric if needed or desired. If there are stains that are hard to take out, then they even add motifs that match the original motif over the stains. Things that are never done with western clothes.

I took some of my mother’s kimonos to such a craftsman, to have them checked for damages and suggestions on the repairs. He told me that all of them were in very good condition, but there were some stains that had to be taken care of before they got any worse. He also told me some characteristics of the paints and the difference from present day methods which I should be aware of when cleaning is needed.

The original Yuzen technique of fixing the paints onto the fabric was to mix the colors with rice-base paste. These days, the paints are covered with a thin film to protect the paints further. The newer kimonos can be easily dry cleaned. The older kimonos can be dry cleaned also, but it has to be done by someone who has special knowledge of how to treat these paints. The rice-base paste also allowed for the paints to be removed relatively easily, and a new design painted over. One of my childhood kimonos were actually prepared this way. My mother had one of her kimono with motifs that had become too childish for her, but still too mature for me, treated and the original paints removed. Then, a motif fit for my age bracket was chosen, and the kimono dyed anew.

So, if you have any vintage kimonos that need cleaning, it’s actually best not to touch it as no one outside of Japan would have the necessary techniques to treat the kimonos as they should be treated. You could have the paints crack and peel off, ruining the motif.

Kimonos should be stored folded flat along the seams and placed in a relatively dry place, though not too dry—just dry enough that molds don’t form. To prevent the paints from staining the surface that is in contact with each other, thin tissues of paper should be placed between the folded surfaces where the motifs are painted. They should not be stored with wool. Silk by itself is relatively worm-proof, so no moth balls are needed unless they are stored together with wool. Here, we either use chests made of paulownia wood or wrap in sheets dyed with turmeric for best protection. If you leave the kimonos hanging, the fabric will become distorted from its own weight, and if left out in the light for a long time, the dyes will fade.

 

[Tomasso]

In my Chicago neighborhood ,in the mid 80's, popped up a shop which sold vintage kimonos. Beautiful stuff. Nothing under 1K (we're talkin' 80's!!)

They had a short run.

 

[LaMedicine]

Um, well...new ones like the ones I've posted would have cost at least 3-4 times as much even in those times. If I tried to get something brand new the calibur of what my mother has, they probably will all go for 5-10K or more now

 

[MegamiOrchard]

I have a beautiful red kimono I bought pre-loved in Kyoto in 1997. It is currently in a shipping container making its way to the UK with all my other possessions. Do you have any advice on websites or experts who would be able to look at a photo of it and tell me if it is 'any good' - as in what kind of people would have worn it, approximate age etc.?