Vintage custom hatters and lesser known vintage production hatmakers

[Rabbit]

Good Morning Rabbit!

I have a mystery jet black fedora recently purchased. Has a narrow 1/2" ribbon with a very long bow.

Can't research the name "Monfur" or "Monfar". It seems quite old. The other side of the sweatband says FRAWLEY & CO. LTD. 34-33 THOMAS ST. DUBLIN

Sorry not able to send pics. I have them, but not quite up to speed on how to post photos.

Welcome to the Lounge.

How to post pics:

1. Compress original pics to a size of 300-600 KB (about 900 or 1100 pixel at the longer side of the image) for a decent image resolution. If you don't know which image viewing/ converting program to use, I recommend the freeware program Fast Stone Image Viewer. It's very easy to handle if you're a Windows user.

2. Upload the image files to an image hosting site like Photobucket and copy & paste the IMG code into the message text of your Fedora Lounge posts.
The Photobucket IMG code looks like this:
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j373/KM25man/VS-ribbonbows.jpg[/IMG
...but with an extra "]" bracket at the end which I left out so that you can see the code and not the image.

I switched from Photobucket to Imgur recently and can thoroughly recommend the latter. The menu is self-explanatory and in my opinion easier to use than photobucket; again choose the IMG code for posting on boards and forums.


Alternatively, you can attach image files via the insert image button. Again, a reduction of the original image file size is preferable for posting pics.

 

[fedoracentric]

Here is a Biskup I sold a few years ago. Just never wore it, so, off it went. But I had never heard of this hat maker before I had this hat.

 

[Rabbit]

Here is a Biskup I sold a few years ago. Just never wore it, so, off it went. But I had never heard of this hat maker before I had this hat.

View attachment 14317

Nice one. I've come across only one hat made by Edward Biskup of Philadelphia, this one (auction photos reposted from earlier in this thread):

Edward Biskup

 

[fedoracentric]

The one I had was quite a nice hat. Very fine felt. It was also marked "beaver blend" on the leather sweatband. So, maybe "beaver blend" was a higher marker for them than the one you have there, "beaver quality"? Or... the other way 'round?

Also interesting that both yours and mine had a box bow and not a regular bow, bow.

 

[TAutry]

Monfa hat or Monfay hat. Is anyone familiar?

 

[dh66]

 

[moehawk]

There was already a Pimbell in this thread, so I figured it was a good spot to put another.
I saw it on Etsy, and something about it just appealed to me. The full crown, if a bit short at 5", the 2 1/4" brim, the pleated liner...or maybe just all of it. It was cheap enough at 30 bucks and a few cents shipped, so I bought it. It arrived earlier today.
I have made a few hat purchases online that I was well, underwhelmed by. This one, I am happy to say is not one of those. Well nade, great condition other than needing a bit of cleaning. The felt is amazing, not overly heavy at 4.7 oz total weight, but it is as dense as anything in my small vintage collection. Not overly stiffened, but the brim has a serious pop to it. It has an edge that looks felted to me. I couldn't feel any stitches, but that doesn't mean that there aren't any. If it is sewn, it is a darn good job.
Here is is:

The innards:

Tags:

Quick bash and noggin shots:

I'm guessing 50's due to dimensios and shape, but I have been known to be off. Any thought would be appreciated.

 

[moehawk]

Here's the edge:

 

[hatsRme]

Here's the edge:

SMASHING, just SMASHING, Moe!! Maybe the Prof. can chime in, here, but it seems to me that Norwalk was home to the "upper crust" of hat manufacturers. I guess this brand was a beneficiary of being there, because this is one FINELY finnished felt, fella! Congrats!!

Second look guess: it's a Cavanagh.

 

[moehawk]

Thanks, hatsRme!
Comparing it to all my vintage lids, this one does have the same feel and solidness of the Jazz Man Cav...a little shorter crown and a little wider brim but otherwise very similar.

 

[Wesslyn]

Independent Hat Dept., Racine

Alexander (Not really sure if this is that obscure but it's my first encounter with the brand)

Hopkins of Baltimore

College Club

 

[Wesslyn]

A little bit more info...
The Independent Hat fedora was bought in a Wormser box. The seller claimed it was the original box, and so initially I thought I was buying a Wormser. While in no way am I disappointed with the purchase, it's an amazing quality hat, I'm also wondering why the seller believed it to be the original box. Obviously pure speculation but could Wormser have owned other smaller brands which used their boxes? Probably not, but eh.
It's a very thick warm felt. Feels like beaver, or at least a blend. Aside from my velours, it's probably the thickest felt I've got.

The Hopkins is an interesting hat. From the 40s most likely, and has lived in Galesburg since it was sold. The department store "Stromgood and Thoureen" was closed down in Galesburg in the 50s or early 60s, I believe. I'm always impressed with a piece of history, especially an article of clothing or accessory manages to stay in the same town for so long. I can't remember where I read it, but Hopkins apparently made some oddball hats. Haven't seen many Hopkins so I can't judge for myself. It's, of course, a Whippet clone, but it has an "Aquaflex" treatment, a'la the waterway process. I've worn it in the rain only once, and after doing that, I had to rub out the marks the rain drops left on the hat. Very nice, finely pounced felt, though.

The College Club hat is a strange one. Aside from being an OR/Strat clone, it's a Canadian made hat, and seems to appear as though it was sold at universities or something, but again, just speculation. There's a spot on the sweatband that might have a bit more evidence of where it originated but it's obscured by some sort of worn out tape or label that doesn't want to come off.

So that's what I know about my hats. If anyone has any of the same brands and knowledge, I'd love to learn more about the non-Stetson/Dobbs/Knox/Resistol/Etc part of my collection.

 

[Redfokker]

I thought of starting an "oddball" thread, but this fits here. I have a problem with taking in strays, like this one...
Picked up a strange one off Ebay, this is a San Francisco Hatter grey felt. Not much to go on, can't find anything through my web sleuthing. Hat has no tags, only the logo to go from. The vintage is also a question, the liner tip is what appears to be oil skin, it is not plastic (like 1950s), and the sweat is brown, but not very robust. The sweat is taped not sewn, missing a bow. No other stamps or maker marks on it either. Nice felt, not "high end" but not as cheap feeling as my Hat City Hat Co hat.

Any one have any ideas?

 

[belfastboy]

Resko

Pimbell

Love the ribbon work on the Pimbell.

 

[M Hatman]

Here is a bump to this thread with a really soft and nice open crown short brim.....rigt at 2". Nice dark, dark, brown with black ribbon.....made by Bruce Kevin Hatter. LOT of beaver in the mix........wonderful felt!! Sewn lining.....
This will get a LOT of head this fall and winter with my suits (I like to wear my short brims with suits).
Best,
M

 

[KarlCrow]

Here is a bump to this thread with a really soft and nice open crown short brim.....rigt at 2". Nice dark, dark, brown with black ribbon.....made by Bruce Kevin Hatter. LOT of beaver in the mix........wonderful felt!! Sewn lining.....
This will get a LOT of head this fall and winter with my suits (I like to wear my short brims with suits).
Best,
M
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really nice, nice shape, what's the crown height?

 

[Redfokker]

Here is a bump to this thread with a really soft and nice open crown short brim.....rigt at 2". Nice dark, dark, brown with black ribbon.....made by Bruce Kevin Hatter. LOT of beaver in the mix........wonderful felt!! Sewn lining.....
This will get a LOT of head this fall and winter with my suits (I like to wear my short brims with suits).
Best,
M
View attachment 83158 View attachment 83159 View attachment 83160 View attachment 83162 View attachment 83163 View attachment 83164 View attachment 83165 View attachment 83166

Nice looking innards on that one. Embrace the stingy. Love the crown height.

 

[Yamahana]

SUNNINGTON

I believe this to be appropriate thread to post this lesser known hat.
Beautiful bone color with 1 1/2” black ribbon/bow in size 7. Unreeded sweat that I didn’t feel safe in trying to peek behind for tags and info. 2 5/8” bound brim, 4 1/2” crown as bashed. Beautiful art deco liner. A very stunning hat.

 

[Rmccamey]

SUNNINGTON

I believe this to be appropriate thread to post this lesser known hat.
Beautiful bone color with 1 1/2” black ribbon/bow in size 7. Unreeded sweat that I didn’t feel safe in trying to peek behind for tags and info. 2 5/8” bound brim, 4 1/2” crown as bashed. Beautiful art deco liner. A very stunning hat.
View attachment 498750 View attachment 498751 View attachment 498752 View attachment 498753 View attachment 498754 View attachment 498755

Very nice hat!

 

[Yamahana]

HARVARD CLUB
Another for this thread a Harvard Club in size 7 1/2. Also an unreeded sweat that I haven’t peeked behind yet for tags and labels. Came from hatters estate in PA and was obviously in the midst of being worked on. I would guess this a 40’s era.
2 3/4” bound brim, 6” open crown.
Very nice soft, thin, easily dry shaped felt. Very nice quality fedora.

Took a look under the sweat for a tag