Vintage Car Thread - Discussion and Parts Requests

[jamespowers]

Around here a high-end car carries some clout, still, to a point.

Ironically enough, people look at you as more likely to be well-off, if you drive a well-maintained older car versus a fancy new one.

They know over there that an older car is, in fact, more expensive to maintain than a new car still under warranty.

 

[Stanley Doble]

Cadillac was always a Cadillac here. It carried cache. If you didn't buy a Cadillac and had made it then you were considered cheap and a skinflint.

They carried the same cachet here. The difference was, in some parts of the country being an arrogant jackass was a bad thing.

 

[LizzieMaine]

I think the difference here was between people who had made it and people who had always had it. People whose ancestors came over on the Mayflower drove the Chryslers and the Buicks. People whose ancestors came over in steerage drove the Caddies.

 

[jamespowers]

They carried the same cachet here. The difference was, in some parts of the country being an arrogant jackass was a bad thing.

I m glad I don't live in those areas of the country. lol lol

 

[GHT]

People whose ancestors came over on the Mayflower drove the Chryslers and the Buicks. People whose ancestors came over in steerage drove the Caddies.

And people whose ancestors made it, but couldn't swim, drove Rolls Royce.

 

[jamespowers]

I think the difference here was between people who had made it and people who had always had it. People whose ancestors came over on the Mayflower drove the Chryslers and the Buicks. People whose ancestors came over in steerage drove the Caddies.

Old money is cheap. What can I say? That is how they keep it. lo lol lol
Then again not all old money was or is cheap. JP Morgan spent money by the ton on the latest and greatest of everything. He knew how to live. In fact, he nearly funded the First World War by himself---giving and backing loans to Europe in opposition to Germany to the tune of billions of dollars in today’s money. There was a reason why he left behind much less money than Rockefeller, Carnegie or Ford who were all new money. He was not a cheap, tightwad, skinflint and knew how to live. lol lol

 

[jamespowers]

And people whose ancestors made it, but couldn't swim, drove Rolls Royce.

Geez, I feel sorry for them.

 

[LizzieMaine]

Old money is cheap. What can I say? That is how they keep it. lo lol lol
Then again not all old money was or is cheap. JP Morgan spent money by the ton on the latest and greatest of everything. He knew how to live. In fact, he nearly funded the First World War by himself---giving and backing loans to Europe in opposition to Germany to the tune of billions of dollars in today’s money. There was a reason why he left behind much less money than Rockefeller, Carnegie or Ford who were all new money. He was not a cheap, tightwad, skinflint and knew how to live. lol lol

We got people around here who still think of those guys as arrivistes. And the Kennedy type of people are like the Clampetts.

 

[jamespowers]

We got people around here who still think of those guys as arrivistes. And the Kennedy type of people are like the Clampetts.

The Kennedys are WORSE than the Clampetts. Aside from Morgan, the rest were also arrivistes.

 

[LizzieMaine]

Getting back to matters automotive, how long should a rotor last these days? I took a 60-mile drive in the Plodge today and started getting hesitation on acceleration and going up hills. I took off the distributor cap and had a look at the rotor, and it was all pitted up on one end of the contact. It was installed when I had the engine rebuilt and has about 2500 miles on it, which seems a bit cheesy -- it's one of those no-name generic parts, but I would have hoped it would have lasted a bit longer than that. I replaced it with an NOS Auto-lite rotor I happened to have lying around in the garage, and it seems to be running fine now.

Is this just the result of a cheap Chinese part, or have I likely got something else going on I need to check?

 

[jamespowers]

Getting back to matters automotive, how long should a rotor last these days? I took a 60-mile drive in the Plodge today and started getting hesitation on acceleration and going up hills. I took off the distributor cap and had a look at the rotor, and it was all pitted up on one end of the contact. It was installed when I had the engine rebuilt and has about 2500 miles on it, which seems a bit cheesy -- it's one of those no-name generic parts, but I would have hoped it would have lasted a bit longer than that. I replaced it with an NOS Auto-lite rotor I happened to have lying around in the garage, and it seems to be running fine now.

Is this just the result of a cheap Chinese part, or have I likely got something else going on I need to check?

It is the result of a cheap part made with cheap metal. That is the way they cut costs. It was laid up for the winter though and stuff tend to accumulate on ignition parts when they aren't run often. Then again every system benefits from running often.

 

[HudsonHawk]

Getting back to matters automotive, how long should a rotor last these days? I took a 60-mile drive in the Plodge today and started getting hesitation on acceleration and going up hills. I took off the distributor cap and had a look at the rotor, and it was all pitted up on one end of the contact. It was installed when I had the engine rebuilt and has about 2500 miles on it, which seems a bit cheesy -- it's one of those no-name generic parts, but I would have hoped it would have lasted a bit longer than that. I replaced it with an NOS Auto-lite rotor I happened to have lying around in the garage, and it seems to be running fine now.

Is this just the result of a cheap Chinese part, or have I likely got something else going on I need to check?

I'm assuming you replaced the distributor at the same time? A rotor should last way more than 2,500 miles. If it's wearing prematurely, it could be a number of things. Possibly a bad distributor bearing making the rotor wobble. Or possibly the coil or spark plugs. Or it could be just a cheap rotor. Probably wouldn't hurt to verify everything.

 

[rjb1]

Your mechanic may or may not have replaced the distributor with a new one or replaced the internal bushings of the original one. To check the possible wobble that HH mentions, look at the contacts inside the distributor cap. If there are gouges or scrubbed-off regions in the internal contacts the the distributor bearings were likely not changed and have gone bad (or were bad). If the internal cap contacts are just moderately discolored (no material displaced) then it is more likely poor alloy in the rotor contact. Who knows what they put in those things in China or Mexico.
Putting that new Autolite rotor on should prove the materials issue one way or the other.

 

[Stearmen]

I just remembered, this is the 50th anniversary of the greatest marketing hype in the automobile world! [video=youtube;r9XTjkO1IZA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9XTjkO1IZA[/video]

 

[LizzieMaine]

Your mechanic may or may not have replaced the distributor with a new one or replaced the internal bushings of the original one. To check the possible wobble that HH mentions, look at the contacts inside the distributor cap. If there are gouges or scrubbed-off regions in the internal contacts the the distributor bearings were likely not changed and have gone bad (or were bad). If the internal cap contacts are just moderately discolored (no material displaced) then it is more likely poor alloy in the rotor contact. Who knows what they put in those things in China or Mexico.
Putting that new Autolite rotor on should prove the materials issue one way or the other.

Inside the cap didn't look particularly worn -- there was some bluing of the contacts, but no evidence of arcing. I'm going to try and take another long drive in the next week or so and see if I have the same problems. It wasn't a constant issue -- I could take some hills fine, and then suddenly I'd start lugging and chuffing and missing trying to get up a rise. At one point it got so bad I had to shift into second, which I usually never have to do.

 

[LizzieMaine]

Went for a thirteen-mile drive this morning and the engine has a *lot* more pep than it did -- so replacing the rotor at least helped the problem. There had been a lot of what I thought was clutch judder when starting up at stoplights and such, and while that hasn't completely disappeared it's greatly reduced, which suggests there still might be some distributor/timing issues worth investigating.

Thanx for the advice!

 

[GHT]

Inside the cap didn't look particularly worn -- there was some bluing of the contacts, but no evidence of arcing. I'm going to try and take another long drive in the next week or so and see if I have the same problems. It wasn't a constant issue -- I could take some hills fine, and then suddenly I'd start lugging and chuffing and missing trying to get up a rise. At one point it got so bad I had to shift into second, which I usually never have to do.

Keep in your toolbox a piece of course sandpaper. When you suspect that the rotor arm might not be functioning to it's expected level, lightly rub the sandpaper over the contact point of the rotor as well as the contact points in the cap. It's not a permanent fix, but it will get you out of trouble.

This tip, and many like it, I am going to have to re-learn as I take to the roads in Jessica. (so called, because she's a redhead.)
Here's another tip Lizzie. Your warning light tells you that your battery is not being charged. It's almost certainly worn brushes in the dynamo. Keep a sliver of aluminium foil in your toolbox, use it to pack your brushes so that they make a good contact with the armature. The foil is a good electrical conductor, again, it's only a get you out of trouble temporary fix.

 

[Stanley Doble]

Getting back to matters automotive, how long should a rotor last these days? I took a 60-mile drive in the Plodge today and started getting hesitation on acceleration and going up hills. I took off the distributor cap and had a look at the rotor, and it was all pitted up on one end of the contact. It was installed when I had the engine rebuilt and has about 2500 miles on it, which seems a bit cheesy -- it's one of those no-name generic parts, but I would have hoped it would have lasted a bit longer than that. I replaced it with an NOS Auto-lite rotor I happened to have lying around in the garage, and it seems to be running fine now.

Is this just the result of a cheap Chinese part, or have I likely got something else going on I need to check?

Probably just a cheap part. Rotors usually last for years. When I worked in garages years ago spark plugs, points, and condenser were replaced at tuneup time, the rotor if it looked real bad, the distributor cap almost never unless is was cracked or burned out.

Check the cap, if the contacts are really burned away you need a new one. if they still have their original shape they can be burned looking but still good. Do not scrape or file the cap or rotor.

One thing to keep in mind at tuneup time. Inspect the points carefully. Usually you will see a pit burned in one side and a pimple of metal built up on the other. But, if both sides are equally worn you have a perfect condenser. You don't often get a perfect one, they vary a little. When I saw one of the good ones I would save it and use it in my own car.

Andy Bernbaum in West Newton Mass is a good place to get parts, at least they always were, although I have not dealt with them since the place changed hands a few years ago.

http://www.oldmoparts.com/

To be more specific. A tuneup is due about every 10,000 miles. A rotor should last 30,000 to 50,000 miles.

Your mileage may vary. If you did a lot of stop and go, short trip and hilly country driving a tuneup might be due more often. In northern climes a tuneup at the onset of winter was a good idea for sure starting in the cold. On today's roads, and the rather easy driving conditions most old cars get, you can stretch it out quite a bit. But, there is no accounting for the quirks of every old car.

 

[LizzieMaine]

Just how reliable would old-stock condensers be compared to current manufacture? I know I wouldn't for a second consider using an NOS condenser in repairing a radio -- the old wax-covered paper units deteriorate in storage, and become leaky. The voltages in a radio are much higher than those in a car, but would the same principle apply? I've never cut apart an automotive condenser to see what's inside, so does anyone know if it's a foil-and-paper roll such as is used in radio, or some other kind of construction that would hold up better in storage? Are they potted in tar or something inside the casing to keep them fresh?

 

[Stanley Doble]

Old stock condensers for cars are the same as for radios - probably not worth using if over 5 years old. I have not tried a modern mylar condenser but it should work. All 6V Chrysler products used the same condenser, .25 to .28 Microfarad. Not sure about the voltage but it has to be higher than 6V. If there is not room in the distributor it will work just as well attached to the coil. Put it on the distributor lug of the coil and ground the other side.

I would definitely prefer old stock points, rotor,and distributor cap.

On second thoughts the auto condensers use a metal case and plastic end cap and seem to be made for higher temps. An NOS one might be ok. I have revived a number of old cars that had been sitting for years and had condensers 30 years old or older, and I don't recall any failing from sitting around.

It has been a long time since I took one apart but all I recall is an aluminum case, plastic cap, and a piece of tinfoil and a piece of wax paper rolled up inside. I should think it will last indefinitely although, if the paper deteriorates with time, its life might be short when put in service.

PS DO NOT take sandpaper to your cap or rotor, it will damage them not improve them. You may clean points with contact cleaner and a strip of typing paper if they get furry over the winter or in severe cases, use 600 wet or dry sandpaper or finer.