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Tropical Kit

stevechasmar

New in Town
Messages
31
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N/A
Getting a Linen Suit Made in Bangkok

I apologize for being so slow with my posts. A combination of work and illness have made these past weeks less than productive. Rather stupidly, I recently accepted work in the form of updating yet another guidebook, and this has meant much more running around than I am used to doing. Really, guidebook writing is for younger men. I told myself that once I hit 40 I would turn these offers down, but all it takes is the promise of a bit of paid-for travel and I tend to forget all the work that goes along with it. Thank God for the internet or I would never get this done. As for the illness, I wish it could have been something exotic like dengue fever but, embarrassingly, it's been nothing more than a good old fashioned, butt-kicking cold.

Ah, so about that linen suit...

My first fitting was a disappointment. The jacket looked like nothing more than a tattered, chalk-marked vest, and the trousers had been misplaced. On the second fitting a week later the jacket was alarmingly tight. I pointed this out to the tailor but he seemed unperturbed, and asked me again if I wanted authentic vintage style. Of course I said I did. A few days later -- last Monday -- I went in to pick up the finished product and was dumbstruck by my image in the mirror. Nothing seemed the fit. The jacket was way too tight, the sleeves sliding half-way up my arms when I held them out in front of me. The trousers, on the other hand, were way too big. I had seen this coming of course but I just took it on faith that the tailor knew what I wanted. How many times in the past have I opened my mouth only to find that I should have just been patient? Not this time apparently.

It took a few minutes to get to the bottom of things but I finally figured out where my tailor was taking his inspiration as to what pre-WWII styles should look like. He led me back to the innermost area of his shop and pointed out a poster of Stan Laurel and Oliver Hardy. The jackets on both men were a couple of sizes too small. The tailor then reminded me that Charlie Chaplin also had his suits cut in the same manner: small jacket, baggy trousers. "But they were comedians!" I heard myself protesting in my head. Of course no such protestations had left my lips. To "break" the tailor's face would have been counterproductive, so I instead told him that I had made a mistake, and that I didn't really want authentic vintage style. We did the measurements all over again and I am now supposed to go in for a fitting next Monday. Except that I have to go back to Cambodia for another ten days at least, so it won't be until the end of the month before this will start again in earnest.

Am I giving up? Hell no! I've already invested too much time and money into this. I'm sure it will turn out all right in the end. Things in Asia always do.

For those of you still following me, thank you for your patience!

All best,
Steven
 

Ecuador Jim

A-List Customer
Messages
346
Location
Seattle
Tomasso said:
I'll have to remember to refrain from posting any links to clothing resources in the future. :eusa_doh:

Don't take it personally. I think Alan has access to resources that we would have a difficult time finding. I'd love to have his sources though!
 

Ecuador Jim

A-List Customer
Messages
346
Location
Seattle
stevechasmar said:
It took a few minutes to get to the bottom of things but I finally figured out where my tailor was taking his inspiration as to what pre-WWII styles should look like. He led me back to the innermost area of his shop and pointed out a poster of Stan Laurel and Oliver Hardy. The jackets on both men were a couple of sizes too small. The tailor then reminded me that Charlie Chaplin also had his suits cut in the same manner: small jacket, baggy trousers.

Interesting where asians get their point of reference from about the US in particular. I was in a bar in Japan, where a poster from "A Fistful of Dollars" was hung. There was our anti-hero in his sarape, cigar and six-shooter ambling down the street. The caption read "Crint Eastwood".

No, that wasn't a spelling error on my part.
 

renor27

One of the Regulars
Messages
212
Location
Reno Nevada
sorry to hear that you have been sick

Glad to hear that you are not giving up on your suit.
But come on what is the tailor thinking.

He has to know the difference between what he was trying to sell you and what the well dressed diplomat or banker was wearing in 1928 or 1938 ( not sure just what style you were going for )
I sure hope it works out for you
David
 

Mojave Jack

One Too Many
Messages
1,785
Location
Yucca Valley, California
stevechasmar said:
He led me back to the innermost area of his shop and pointed out a poster of Stan Laurel and Oliver Hardy. The jackets on both men were a couple of sizes too small. The tailor then reminded me that Charlie Chaplin also had his suits cut in the same manner: small jacket, baggy trousers. "But they were comedians!" I heard myself protesting in my head. Of course no such protestations had left my lips. To "break" the tailor's face would have been counterproductive, so I instead told him that I had made a mistake, and that I didn't really want authentic vintage style. We did the measurements all over again and I am now supposed to go in for a fitting next Monday. Except that I have to go back to Cambodia for another ten days at least, so it won't be until the end of the month before this will start again in earnest.

Am I giving up? Hell no! I've already invested too much time and money into this. I'm sure it will turn out all right in the end. Things in Asia always do.

For those of you still following me, thank you for your patience!

All best,
Steven
Steven, that must have been frustrating, but what a great story! You must have been thinking in the back of your mind -- even as you cringed when he showed you that photo of L&H -- what a great laugh you would have over it someday! I happened to see your post just shortly before leaving for the Queen Mary, and shared it a few times over the weekend for those Loungers that had not logged in recently.

And bravo for not giving up! It is a sartorial adventure of the first order!
 

stevechasmar

New in Town
Messages
31
Location
N/A
Tropical Success!

Dear Loungers,

For those of you still following me, thanks once again for your patience. I got back from Phnom Penh on Saturday, and spent all day Sunday rehearsing how I would hide my disappointment once I went in to the tailor's to pick up my suit on Monday.

The rehearsal was not necessary. Not only did the tailor completely rectify the problem of the ill-fitting suit jacket, he refused to take payment for the extra cloth that he had to buy to re-cut it. The suit fits perfectly and I am very happy with it. I just now (as in half an hour ago) had some photos taken to show you all how it looks.

All I have to do now is figure out how to attach photos to these replies! Any advice would be appreciated. I tried the "insert image" button on the tool bar above but that gets me a window asking for the "URL of the image" -- as if I am supposed to enter an web address. I have seen photos attached to others' replies. How did you do it?

Thanks much!

Best,
Steven
 

stevechasmar

New in Town
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31
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N/A
Photos...

OK, let's see if I can make this work. If so I will add more photos. As I said this was taken just a couple hours ago. We are having very cool weather in Bangkok (current temperature at 6:30pm is 30 degrees Celsius or about 85 degrees Fahrenheit) and so wearing the full linen suit with vest and jacket is reasonably comfortable. I really wonder how people did it before electricity though. Forget air-conditioning, they didn't even have electric fans out here until the 1950s or so. Of course there was the punkah -- a curtain-like ceiling fan powered by a "punkah wallah", a guy who pulled it back and forth. But I can't imagine one of those things did any more than stir the air a bit.

Anyway, before I get started on a ramble let's see if the photo posts...

DSC04860.jpg
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stevechasmar

New in Town
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31
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More Photos...

It works! Thanks, BellyTank.

OK, so as you can see, the tiny lines of the pattern (anyone have any idea what this pattern is called?) don't match up perfectly on the side seams, but they do in front where it really counts. I don't know if you can see it but this pattern consists of rust-colored horizontal lines and gray-blue vertical lines. They are very subtle on the background -- the color of which I am unsure of but it reminds me of the creamy yellow that one sees on colonial-era buildings in the former French Indochina countries (Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos).

I welcome any advice on what kind of shirt and tie I should wear with this suit, and if a pocket handkerchief is necessary. Please feel free to make suggestions about accoutrements!

The label, by the way, was a gift from an Austrian artist friend -- a little joke of his. He had these labels made and then made up a story to go along with them. The tailors, two Russian Jews, were originally from Odessa but fled to Shanghai after the Russian Revolution in 1917. In Shanghai they prospered in the White Russian community, and were tailors to the British and American tai-pans in the International Settlement...that is, until the Japanese invaded in 1937. The tailors were able to get out of Shanghai just before the Japanese took complete control in 1941 (they attacked Shanghai's International Settlement at the same moment that they attacked Pearl Harbor) and the tailors settled in Manaus, the capital of Brazil's Amazonas State. There the tailors' grandsons continue their work to this day...

It was pure luck that the color of the silk label matched the color of the linen suit so well!

All best,
Steven

DSC04858.jpg
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DSC04863.jpg
[/IMG]
 

renor27

One of the Regulars
Messages
212
Location
Reno Nevada
great looking suit

What a wonderful suit.
Very vintage in the look as for a shirt would say white with detached collar also try open turned back cuffs, like a French cuff but with buttons and not studs. I found this style cuff in a 1921 Philipsborn's catalog.
You could always dress the suit up by going with a very light blue shirt and white collar.
Glad the whole thing came out and that you found a tailor that you can work with
David
 

stevechasmar

New in Town
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31
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Accessories for Tropical Linin Suit

David, thanks for the feedback. I've always wanted one of those shirts with a detachable collar, and the light blue would go with the gray-blue lines on the suit. Here's a question: I will probably just have the tailor try to make such a shirt for me. Do you remember if the collar is supposed to be pointed or rounded? I think a rounded collar would look good with this.

Oh hey, I totally forgot to mention the price of this suit. I spent 4000 baht on the material (about $135) and 6000 baht on labor ($200) for a total of $335. Actually, if it weren't for the US dollar dropping so drastically over the past few months, this would have been even cheaper. A year ago the cost would have been a mere $250.

Silly misunderstanding aside, this old Chinese tailor is very professional. Unlike many of the Indian tailors here in Bangkok, he won't stoop to standing outside his shop door and touting his wares ("A fine suit for you, sir?") nor does he give commissions to touts who bring in customers.

I live in Bangkok year round so if anyone is passing through and wants to try to have something made, I would be happy to point out the place in Chinatown where I got the linen as well as the tailor's shop.

All best,
Steven
 

cookie

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,927
Location
Sydney Australia
Steve's BKK suit

Congrats so far... as I suspect you will be visiting that guy again when you get paid in HARD currency ha ha oops sorry...:eusa_doh:

It's funny you know. In my mind I had a totally different idea of what that suit would like like. I though it would be more along these lines of something flashier and more Euro instead it is very distinguished/diplomatic-Foreign Office (the window pane pattern is very UK) look and dare I say a little modern in ways with the 3 buttons. A couple of photos of you without the jacket and only vest would be nice. I see you got the right pointy bits on the vest bottom.

Tell us more about your debriefing with the tailor about future tailoring opportunities and the chance of FL business.
 

carter

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,921
Location
Corsicana, TX
How did I miss this?

Steve, I just read this entire thread and must say your journey of the suit has been very entertaining and enlightening. Reading of your travels and the ups and downs of this entire process has been fascinating. I'm glad to find that you have a very nice suit that you like at the end of the process. Congratulations on staying with it and prevailing in the end. :eusa_clap
We have friends who are missionaries living in Chang My (SP?) for well over a decade at this point. All three of their children were born in Thailand. They have a deep affection for the people of Thailand. It's interesting to read a little of your life living in Bangkok.
Thanks for a great read and best wishes for the future. I look forward to more of your posts.
Carter
 

renor27

One of the Regulars
Messages
212
Location
Reno Nevada
collar

Hi Steve,
I would think a round collar.
I know that your tailor will not need a pattern for what you want. So I will not send that but will up load some photos once I get this last paper for school finished.
If you want 1920's I have catologs from the early 1920's and some other photos.

Not a bad price on the suit to bad the tailor is 1/2 way around the world . A great label and a wonderful story behind it
David
 

stevechasmar

New in Town
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31
Location
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Thanks for the Feedback!

Thank you all for your input. Cookie, thanks for letting me know the name of this pattern -- windowpane. I'd never heard of it. Thanks too for the feedback on the round collar -- I'm sure now that's the way to go. David, I would very much like to see your catalog from the 1920s.

Carter, thank you for the kind words. I lived in Chiang Mai for about six years (1989-1995) before moving down to Bangkok, and yes, there are American missionary families who have been there for generations. The first one apparently arrived in the 1860s and became the first long-term non-Asian resident of Chiang Mai (I believe he was up there for 30 years). Not all the Christian missionaries stayed in the fold. A famous case was one Dr Cheek who abandoned his missionary post and went into business with Louis Leonowens (son of Anna Leonowens, whose controversial memoirs were made into the play and movies The King and I). Dr Cheek and Louis Leonownens are said to have built a sizable harem consisting of fair-skinned ladies from northern Thailand -- and kept them happy with gifts of gold, silver and elephants. I was able to interview a few of the missionary families for an article I did years back. I don't always agree with their methods, but I still find them fascinating.

OK, looks like I got sidetracked. I have a question for anyone out there. What color tie would best go with this suit? I'm afraid that getting colors to match isn't my strong point. Although given the color of my hat band, I reckon black is a safe bet. Any other suggestions?

All best,
Steven
 

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