Trench Coat - the 'Ultimate' Thread!

[WildBill203]

I have found in a search on the laptop and found one I really like. Magnoli Casablanca Trench Coat. I am 6.4" 269I=Lbs and can't seem to find one used without trying it on and no return or refund.

I would like some personal feedback about the Magnoli Trench Coat, Casablana Trench Coat as close as you can get from the movie. I have see Humprey Bogart in BW photos wearing a trench coat with double and single gun flaps.

 

[WildBill203]

I love the looks of it. I wish a local mens shop had it so I can see it and try iy on in person.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I would like some personal feedback about the Magnoli Trench Coat, Casablana Trench Coat as close as you can get from the movie. I have see Humprey Bogart in BW photos wearing a trench coat with double and single gun flaps.

It's easier to buy a jacket without trying on than you might think. I never try on jackets and have bought more than 40 on line with only 2 needing to be returned.

At your size, it may be harder to find vintage or pre-loved clothes, but if you know how long you want the jacket to fit, how wide your pit to pit needs to be (measure a jacket that fits like you want it to fit) and how long your sleeves need to be and you will be very close to, if not, right.

I am six two and 185 pounds - I wear a 44 in most overcoats, sometimes a 42, if the pit to pit is around 2 inches - measured across the chest.

I imagine (and this is very rough) you might need a size 52 or a pit-to-pit of 27 inches across and 27 inch sleeves from shoulder to cuff. Length for a Bogart trench at your height would be around 45 inches.

It may not look a lot like Bogart - remember he was smallish - around five foot eight and 145 pounds.

You can always contact Magnoli and ask him about his sizing for your build. The quality, from most of the reviews I have read is good.

 

[l0fielectronic]

'Bruce Wayne' earlier in this tread mentioned he'd ordered one but then didn't follow up on what happened.

Had a look at the website and wow, its not cheap is it. I guess it depends whether you want the lapels in the 'correct' shape but don't mind about the the wrong colour buttons and the generic/cheap roller buckles on the sleeves and belt. I think for a $600 'replica' it should all be about getting the details spot on and using decent looking hardware.

If it were me I'd be looking for something vintage/2nd hand as these kind of coats don't seem to sell for much at all, and it would likely be better made. But I can see size may be an issue, fit wise in the 90's the cut of these was very oversize so you might be lucky with something of that era.

 

[WildBill203]

I noticed the rolled buckles looked funny looking.

 

[Doctor Damage]

If it were me I'd be looking for something vintage/2nd hand as these kind of coats don't seem to sell for much at all, and it would likely be better made. But I can see size may be an issue, fit wise in the 90's the cut of these was very oversize so you might be lucky with something of that era.

This is what I would do, too. As for fit, Bogart was a diminutive man with a huge head, so it's going to be impossible for a man living in the modern age to get the same fit, unless you happen to be tiny like him. I've got several trench coats, none of which resemble the Casablanca coat in details, but they capture a little of the "spirit" of the thing.

 

[Setok]

It's that time of the year when I once again return, in my mind, to this topic. My now 15 year old Burberry is getting increasingly ragged (I'm not sure I dare bring it to a dry cleaners anymore, as the previous visit resulted in holes in many areas). My one is a little unique as the liner is wool rather than cotton, and that part of it is still in perfect shape. I believe thin wool is a superior liner to cotton, but nobody seems to do that these days. When I got it, Burberry prices were already pretty steep, and now they seem to have become even more ridiculous — so I'd rather not go down that path as I feel I'm mostly just paying for the brand.

It's a pity 'Traditional Rainwear' went bust. They had, at one point, been making the Burberry trenches and had their own line which I believe to be all but identical, but at a sensible price. I very much regret not getting one at the time, but my Burberry was still in OK condition then.

I've been eyeing Grenfell which would probably fit the bill, though there are some who mention the fabric is not the same quality as the original Grenfell fabric? Besides, they're not exactly cheap either and I keep wondering about the current company's actual connection with the historical one.

There's a trench coat, referred to in this thread, by What Price Glory that is said to follow the pattern of an original WW1 coat. This might be nice because I feel many post-war interpretations are narrower and slimmer in shape. I'd prefer to get one from the British isles, but the price on this is appealing. There are, however, hardly any pictures of it being worn by anyone, or any reviews (apart from one or two mentions here). How is the fabric, is it properly tightly woven or more 'theatre quality'? How has it held up? Does it keep off rain?

Finally, it might be interesting to find one from Ventile. I have spotted a couple, but they are all very modern in shape. Ie. too short, narrow or lacking in details. Any tips appreciated!

 

[Doctor Damage]

^
If your coat has holes in it from trips to the cleaners, then you've taken it to the cleaners far too often. Trenchcoats are outerwear, get them cleaned once every few years, max. Who cares if they get a bit dirty, that's their purpose.

You want to buy a new coat? Why not buy a used one? All except one of my nine trenchcoats are used and look great. The most I paid was CAD $220 for a used Burberry one in near-mint condition, and much less for my less-famous coats, including a used Aquascutum.

 

[Tiki Tom]

Agreed. After trawling several second hand shops in our fine metropolis, I found a Hugo Boss trench coat with all the classic bells and whistles that was in great condition and exactly my size. Price: about $100. Beautiful. Truth be told, I’d been hunting for such a treasure for a couple of years before I finally found it. I get it dry cleaned about once every two or three years.

BTW, I love October. Am so happy that we have trench coat weather again.

 

[Setok]

^
If your coat has holes in it from trips to the cleaners, then you've taken it to the cleaners far too often. Trenchcoats are outerwear, get them cleaned once every few years, max. Who cares if they get a bit dirty, that's their purpose.

You are making big assumptions here. The Burberry has been dry cleaned less than 5 times in its 15 year lifespan. The last one, some years ago, resulted in holes and damage around the cuffs and other edges of the coat, as well as on the lower parts of the sleeve where there are some creases. Many parts showed up kind of orange, which then quickly became holes. I am confident those holes were not there before taking it in. The dry cleaner paid to get some of the areas fixed up, but needless to say I was distraught.

Now I do think the tan colour is not the best as it does show up dirt, and would prefer brown. But that's another story

As to vintage, well yes, it's always a possibility, but I'm tall and of some size, and it can take some time to find a vintage one in the right style, from the right materials, in good shape, at the right price, and in my size. I do keep my eye on them now and then.

So, any thoughts on the questions posted?

 

[Doctor Damage]

 

[Gray_Saint]

So I have been searching high and low and scoured the interwebs deep enough to make "Artie the Answer" blush, but I cannot find ANY info on this Trenchcoat. I loved the style and panache of Mike hammer played by Stacy Keach and wouldn't mind finding out and owning this trench. The things that keep throwing me are the button placement on the epaulets and the epaulets themselves looking like a split in two style, the collar, and the fact it doesn't have a back vent (at least in the show). I haven't even been able to identify the color(80's Photography...). So I humbly come begging, with akubra stylemaster in hand(which I found thanks to all of you!), for a drop of wisdom from you wise sages of Fedora for your help.

 

[Doctor Damage]

to management: Maybe this can be rolled into the big trench coat thread?
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/trench-coat-the-ultimate-thread.94/

to Gray Saint, it's 99% likely to be a coat whipped up by the costume department, or rented out by a costume supply company to the production team. In other words, it's unlikely we'll never know if it was custom made or mass market, unless you are able to (1) contact the costumier for the show/film and (2) they remember.

 

[Gray_Saint]

to management: Maybe this can be rolled into the big trench coat thread?
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/trench-coat-the-ultimate-thread.94/

to Gray Saint, it's 99% likely to be a coat whipped up by the costume department, or rented out by a costume supply company to the production team. In other words, it's unlikely we'll never know if it was custom made or mass market, unless you are able to (1) contact the costumier for the show/film and (2) they remember.

Thanks doc, your probably right... But I was at least hoping to get close. The Costume designer was Grady Hunt and he passed away a few years ago at the ripe old age of 97. The thread on his hat was VERY helpful and I now own a Akubra Stylemaster because of it.

Anybody else have an opinion?

 

[Seb Lucas]

I suspect they just went to Macy's or some slightly higher end place and bought 10 coats for the series - an approach they used for most shows in the 1980's. The lapels are interesting. The Stylemaster looks like a close stand in.

 

[Gray_Saint]

I suspect they just went to Macy's or some slightly higher end place and bought 10 coats for the series - an approach they used for most shows in the 1980's. The lapels are interesting. The Stylemaster looks like a close stand in.

Yea... Its mostly the lapels and epaulets throwing me off. I like the lapels but I cant find a picture like them anywhere!

 

[Harp]

I dislike playing devil's advocate but while the trench hasn't been neutered it has been modified.
Recall the show, and the epaulets are non regulation, missing shoulder rifle pad, back vent.
Ditto trench pistol pocket inside is also a likely goner.
Keach had that rumpled look down pat, just a bummer monkey wrench trench.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Yea... Its mostly the lapels and epaulets throwing me off. I like the lapels but I cant find a picture like them anywhere!

The 1980's are a long time ago. Don't know what it was like in the US but here there were many styles of trench available in most menswear stores I knew back then. They were a basic fashion item. I bought a couple in the mid 1980's. They were still worn around and no one took notice. These days it's hard to find a single trench coat. I think people may consider them a bit of a costume thing.

 

[Gray_Saint]

I dislike playing devil's advocate but while the trench hasn't been neutered it has been modified.
Recall the show, and the epaulets are non regulation, missing shoulder rifle pad, back vent.
Ditto trench pistol pocket inside is also a likely goner.
Keach had that rumpled look down pat, just a bummer monkey wrench trench.

Harp, I appreciate your comment, but in Picture #2 with the lamp post behind him and in picture #4 with him standing on the subway steps- the collar has button holes. I doubt it was a neutered regular one..

 

[Harp]

Harp, I appreciate your comment, but in Picture #2 with the lamp post behind him and in picture #4 with him standing on the subway steps- the collar has button holes. I doubt it was a neutered regular one..

Neutered, a sartorial generic applicable to standard trench redesign. Keach's knockoff fits that bill.
A nice look trench, but I honestly do not understand why the original trench had to be altered.