Trench Coat - the 'Ultimate' Thread!

[Blackthorn]

Excellent!

 

[Doctor Damage]

Photo of Bogie in "Sirocco" which shows how grubby his trenchcoat becomes later in the movie.

 

[Doctor Damage]

Robert Mitchum in Out Of The Past, an amazing film from the film-noir/hard-boiled genre. He wears this ratty trenchcoat through most of the film and it's an interesting coat because is has neither a rain shield over the shoulder blades nor a rear vent.

 

[Hal]

...it's an interesting coat because it has neither a rain shield over the shoulder blades nor a rear vent.

I have seen a coat made by Aquascutum which had these features. But a closed inverted pleat at the back would seem to be a more practical option for protection in wind and rain than a true vent which can be blown open.

 

[Doctor Damage]

...it's an interesting coat because it has neither a rain shield over the shoulder blades nor a rear vent.

I have seen a coat made by Aquascutum which had these features. But a closed inverted pleat at the back would seem to be a more practical option for protection in wind and rain than a true vent which can be blown open.

Here's a partial rear view of the coat:

 

[Hal]

Dr Damage, the coat in the picture you show seems to have neither vent nor inverted pleat, but a continuous back. Was this unusual at the time?

 

[Doctor Damage]

Dr Damage, the coat in the picture you show seems to have neither vent nor inverted pleat, but a continuous back. Was this unusual at the time?

I don't know anything about vintage clothing (other than what I see in photos and films) so I can't say. Bogie's coat in Sirocco didn't have the rear rain shield but it did have a vent. And of course Bogie's coat in Casablanca has some uncommon features, too. As long as it's long, drapes well, keeps you dry, and makes you look dashing then I don't think the details really matter!

 

[Hal]

I don't know anything about vintage clothing (other than what I see in photos and films) so I can't say. Bogie's coat in Sirocco didn't have the rear rain shield but it did have a vent...As long as it's long, drapes well, keeps you dry, and makes you look dashing then I don't think the details really matter!

Thanks for this - I'm sure I don't know any more about vintage clothing than you, but these details are present in present-day styles as well. What you have called "rear rain shield" was what I called "inverted pleat", and a coat with this does a better job of keeping the wearer dry than does one with a vent - that was all I was trying to say.

 

[Doctor Damage]

I don't know anything about vintage clothing (other than what I see in photos and films) so I can't say. Bogie's coat in Sirocco didn't have the rear rain shield but it did have a vent...As long as it's long, drapes well, keeps you dry, and makes you look dashing then I don't think the details really matter!

Thanks for this - I'm sure I don't know any more about vintage clothing than you, but these details are present in present-day styles as well. What you have called "rear rain shield" was what I called "inverted pleat", and a coat with this does a better job of keeping the wearer dry than does one with a vent - that was all I was trying to say.

What I meant by the "rear rain shield" was the yoke on the back over the shoulder blades. For some reason I couldn't think of the name, even though there are some diagrams earlier in this thread which clearly show it. Getting old, I guess. I agree about proper inverted pleats or bellows vents keeping you dry; I've never understood the point of open slash vents on raincoats, but they seem to be common. It's always fun to look on eBay because all sorts of interesting variations pop up now and then.

 

[Hal]

What I meant by the "rear rain shield" was the yoke on the back over the shoulder blades.

Thanks again for this, and apologies for my terminological mistake.

 

[Doctor Damage]

Here's the link to an amazing Japanese online seller who has tons of photos of old and new trench coats including Aquascutum, Burberry, and others. Worth a look for those who are interested in such things (and who isn't?).

http://store.trade-inc.jp/?mode=cate&cbid=1074476&csid=0&sort=n

 

[one2rock]

On a windy, grey, rainy springday in London town, nothing beats a Aquascutum!

I've been looking for a Aquascutum in that colour!

Could you perhaps tell me the colour code? The little white label is inside one of the side pockets.

Thanks,
Michael

 

[Doctor Damage]

I've been looking for a Aquascutum in that colour!

Could you perhaps tell me the colour code? The little white label is inside one of the side pockets.

I have two new Aquascutum coats and neither has any such label. Only one of the original sales tags has any information. Since the company is no defunct, what possible use could knowing a colour code be? You certainly couldn't order one.

Anyway, here's some photos of an older Aquascutum "Kingsgate" coat, their mainstay model for a couple decades. I don't know the exact age of this coat (from eBay) but for the past several years these coats had darker buttons, so this coat is at least 5+ years old. Despite what is often asserted on the internet, the 55% cotton mix was very common among Aquascutum coats of all ages (with or without the "Aqua5" treatment).



Here's a couple photos from inside an Aquascutum store. Corbis used to have these photos on their site, but they're gone now and I didn't record the date of the photo. I suppose one could make a judgement based on the attire of the salesman, but that's a bit shaky. I suspect the photos date from the late 1980s or early 1990s. In any case, the point is that the "Kingsgate" model is clearly on display.

 

[one2rock]

The Kingsgate coat model in the above photo is the one I am looking for in my size.

The little white label shown in the third photo has the colour code.

Have you seen it for sale resently?

Thanks for the photos,
Michael

 

[Doctor Damage]

The Kingsgate coat model in the above photo is the one I am looking for in my size.

The little white label shown in the third photo has the colour code.

Have you seen it for sale resently?

Forget about the tags, they will not help you in any way. None of the new/recent Kingsgate coats have those tags, unless they're hidden well. I bought a new one a few months back, and I can't find the tag. Now that the company is in bankruptcy, the only way you will obtain one of these coats is via eBay (probably the U.K. site if you are in Europe). However, for several months I have not seen any new Kingsgate coats in "tan" (or as they more recently called it "camel") listed on eBay, but there are a few used vintage coats listed right now in tan. Open an ebay account on the U.K. site and check in at least once a week. Again, forget the tags and codes. Instead, you will need to use your eyes and watch for certain details to know what you are getting.

I will try to find the time to post more photos for reference and some info on details and cloth blends, which will help you date Aquascutum coats, but below are a few observations I have made based on years of watching eBay offerings. If you post your standard suit size or coat size then I will send you links to coats if I happen to find them.

- Recent coats are all Regular length but they fit Long lengths fine (I'm a Tall and I wear a Regular perfectly), while vintage coats came in Regular and Long lengths, suggesting they fitted differently.

- Recent coats have black buttons on the tan or camel models, not the lighter coloured buttons on the coat in the photo. Older coats had light coloured buttons, although usually a bit darker than the cloth.

- The last Kingsgate coats before bankruptcy were in "camel" and were only 35% cotton, while previous Kingsgate coats (and most high-end Aquascutum coats) were usually 55% cotton, which is the best blend and what you should aim for. Older and vintage coats were sometimes 100% cotton, but is not commonly seen.

- Older Kingsgate coats had five rows of stitching on the belt, whereas the most recent one had only four rows.

- Older coats came in different colours: tan, brown, dark green, navy blue, grey, some others (but haven't seen black in vintage coats).

- Recent coats came only in tan, black, navy blue.

- Truly vintage coats, like 1940s era to the 1960s, had pocket flaps held closed by the twin buttons, while more recent coats in the past couple decades the twin buttons were for show only (this needs photos, which I will post eventually).

 

[Spitfire]

I've been looking for a Aquascutum in that colour!

Could you perhaps tell me the colour code? The little white label is inside one of the side pockets.

Thanks,
Michael

Sorry being late - didn't see your post until now.
My coat is 55% cotton
4 stitches on the belt - actually 6 if you count the outer ones too.

the label in the right side pocket reads:
A-KC 10718
CN6997 AA6M
69971052-3
1052/830
42REG

No idear of color code or what this means - but there it is.
Hope it helps.

 

[Spitfire]

My Aquascutum has the pale buttons too. Regarding color, it's actually so, that my wife, my son and I have different models of Aquascutums - and in three different colors. My sons tends to look slightly green-ish. With a single line of buttons - very straight. Nothing fancy. Believe it to be the Aqua 5.
My wife's coat is almost the same model - but designed for women - is very pale - almost white/pale eggshell.
And mine is the Kingsgate and is - well - tan?

They were all bought used.
My son bought his in Hornets in London - I bought mine and my wife's on Ebay from UK. Dead cheap!

PS I posted a picture - scroll back to page 117 - bottom post. There it is.

 

[Doctor Damage]

They were all bought used.

Thank goodness you bought those coats used - prices of brand new Aqua coats were ridiculously inflated when they were still available.

Better deals can always be had used on eBay, or in local thrift stores. I just picked up a third trenchcoat made from a cloth called Erba Travel: 35% cotton, lasts bloody forever, and was made in West Germany (date?). My first coat in that cloth was bought new from Harry Rosen in Toronto in the late 1980s, but the second and third coats were bought used for $10 each. The overall quality of all three coats is as good as (and arguably better) than Burberry or Aquascutum.

 

[rocketeer]

Don't know if this has been covered but why is it called a trench coat? Anything to do with a military garment worn in trenches? The only time I remember is old pictures of the French army in WWI wearing them(blue, red?)
J

 

[Spitfire]

Yes - it has been asked before.
And yes - it has something to do with trenches/military/army/WWI.

But in all due respect J - what do you think this whole thread is about?
Why don't you start reading, before asking?
I am pretty sure you'll find the answer to you question - not only once but several times. With pictures!