Trench Coat - the 'Ultimate' Thread!

[guygardner]

US Army officers during the second world war wearing the "officer's field overcoat".

A disturbing photo. Do you know the context of the photo?

 

[mdove]

My guess, shot a spy or a traitor. Something that cost, or had the potential to cost, American or Allied lives. Folks do not face firing squads for little things.

 

[Doctor Damage]

A disturbing photo. Do you know the context of the photo?

My guess, shot a spy or a traitor. Something that cost, or had the potential to cost, American or Allied lives. Folks do not face firing squads for little things.

Apparently it shows the execution of a spy (according to the reference on Corbis) which I didn't mention because I didn't want to get into a discussion about the rightness or wrongness of such actions, although I will observe that people often face firing squads for little things. Anyway, the image provides good views of the officer's field overcoat; note the extra buttons on the sides of the skirts (below the pockets) which are used to fasten back the front skirts for running, etc.

 

[Italian-wiseguy]

Here is a photo of a WWI soldier wearing a long Single-breasted overcoat for use in the trenches. Looks like a trench coat to me...

[/IMG]

I don't define myself as a purist. It's hard to find rules that aren't contradicted at one time, if you just look enough. The definition of rules about clothing, in particular, seems to be a very slippery trail, as the same garment can be definited differently in different ages, places or languages... e.g. "topcoat", "overcoat" and "greatcoat" are all the same "cappotto" in italian, while an italian "soprabito" (lit. "overcoat") more than often corresponds to an english raincoat...
I think that a bit of elasticity is needed

Anyway, trench-coat or rain-coat, I like the look of the above soldier, but also your own coat in the previous photo!!
ciao!!

 

[guygardner]

It's interesting how differently it can be defined depending on place and language. Even in English there are regional and national differences, slang, etc.

I don't define myself as a purist. It's hard to find rules that aren't contradicted at one time, if you just look enough. The definition of rules about clothing, in particular, seems to be a very slippery trail, as the same garment can be definited differently in different ages, places or languages... e.g. "topcoat", "overcoat" and "greatcoat" are all the same "cappotto" in italian, while an italian "soprabito" (lit. "overcoat") more than often corresponds to an english raincoat...
I think that a bit of elasticity is needed

Anyway, trench-coat or rain-coat, I like the look of the above soldier, but also your own coat in the previous photo!!
ciao!!

Thanks Wiseguy

 

[guygardner]

Here's another "WWII" era Officer's Trench Coat, but this one is from the Navy:

http://www.etsy.com/listing/79947930/sale-vintage-ww2-overcoat-1940s-naval

Looks a lot like the post-war coat, except look how low the buttons are. It also looks like it has a leather buckle.

I'm not sure about the date on this one. I've seen some of these listed as 1950s.

 

[KC Capellor]

No doubt, I like all these historic styles, too. guygardner's WWI soldier looks like Canadian uniform. Our northern cousins have always had a handle on cold weather gear. Obviously, field soldiers wore whataver was available and would pass muster with their sergeant. I believe that WWI era officers were required to furnish their own overcoat that met specs (the classic "trench coat") whereas enlisted grade and nco's were issued overcoats. By WWII officers were issued field overcoats as in the Doctor D photo. Higher ranking officers and especially generals still favored full-on trench coats in appropriate climates. Very interesting historical references!

 

[mdove]

In the US Army all officers purchase all of their own uniforms. Enlisted and NCO's are furnished uniforms. I would assume it is the same across the military. Certain field gear is issued but uniforms are purchased.

 

[Doctor Damage]

Below left is an interesting Japan-only Aquascutum coat called the Princegate (which was also available in camo cloth). The details resemble those often seen in old photos: set-in sleeves, short rain flap, short length, high belt, etc. By contrast, the Kingsgate, which is their "luxury" coat, is on the right.

 

[guygardner]

Below left is an interesting Japan-only Aquascutum coat called the Princegate (which was also available in camo cloth). The details resemble those often seen in old photos: set-in sleeves, short rain flap, short length, high belt, etc. By contrast, the Kingsgate, which is their "luxury" coat, is on the right.

They're both nice coats, but I really like the styling of the Japan-only release trench. Uniqlo makes an inexpensive cotton-gabardine trench that looks very similar.

 

[Doctor Damage]

They're both nice coats, but I really like the styling of the Japan-only release trench. Uniqlo makes an inexpensive cotton-gabardine trench that looks very similar.

You're right, it's a great looking coat. Here it is: http://www.uniqlo.com/us/CPaGoods/itemcode=070877.

Too bad they don't seem to have a Canadian store... do you know of a Canadian retailer which has them?

 

[guygardner]

You're right, it's a great looking coat. Here it is: http://www.uniqlo.com/us/CPaGoods/itemcode=070877.

Too bad they don't seem to have a Canadian store... do you know of a Canadian retailer which has them?

Unfortunately, no. I used to shop there while living in Beijing. Great basic clothing, and not expensive. I picked up a single-breasted trench from Uniqlo, and it is my warm-weather raincoat. No winter lining, but very comfortable cotton shell, and rain-proof.

You might want to check Ebay. You can also buy one through proxy (find a trusted seller in NY, London or wherever there is a Uniqlo, and buy it through him. You sometimes see people on Styleforum advertising this service).

 

[Doctor Damage]

You're right, it's a great looking coat. Here it is: http://www.uniqlo.com/us/CPaGoods/itemcode=070877.

Too bad they don't seem to have a Canadian store... do you know of a Canadian retailer which has them?

Unfortunately, no. I used to shop there while living in Beijing. Great basic clothing, and not expensive. I picked up a single-breasted trench from Uniqlo, and it is my warm-weather raincoat. No winter lining, but very comfortable cotton shell, and rain-proof.

You might want to check Ebay. You can also buy one through proxy (find a trusted seller in NY, London or wherever there is a Uniqlo, and buy it through him. You sometimes see people on Styleforum advertising this service).

Too bad about that - their products look like they'd do well in Toronto.

 

[guygardner]

Too bad about that - their products look like they'd do well in Toronto.

I'm sure they would do well here. I don't see why they don't at least open a Canadian HQ and allow online purchases.

 

[Doctor Damage]

Too bad about that - their products look like they'd do well in Toronto.

I'm sure they would do well here. I don't see why they don't at least open a Canadian HQ and allow online purchases.

Online purchases would be great, but I also think a bricks-and-mortar store in the Eaton's Centre in Toronto would do well. I suspect most retailers think Canada is too small of a market to enter, but Brooks Brothers did and their store in Toronto is apparently doing well and has most of the same stuff that the HQ store in NYC offers (they are going to expand with a second store in Toronto). However, the Calgary BB store is apparently struggling. Similarly, Ralph Lauren should have a stand-alone store in Toronto as well, rather than the small concession in Holt's which contains only a limited selection of stuff.

Oh well.

 

[Doctor Damage]

Previously I had posted the following photo, dated 1944, of Major General Collins wearing an interesting tench coat with only eight buttons, widely spaced.



Last night I found the image below on my hard drive, supposedly dating from 1950, which I had pulled from the Burberry website. It shows a trench coat with eight buttons, widely spaced, so it's clear that some point Burberry used to make this style. I would love to see this style come back as I think it's more interesting visually than the ten button, narrowly spaced coats which are almost ubiquitous today.

 

[guygardner]

Previously I had posted the following photo, dated 1944, of Major General Collins wearing an interesting tench coat with only eight buttons, widely spaced.



Last night I found the image below on my hard drive, supposedly dating from 1950, which I had pulled from the Burberry website. It shows a trench coat with eight buttons, widely spaced, so it's clear that some point Burberry used to make this style. I would love to see this style come back as I think it's more interesting visually than the ten button, narrowly spaced coats which are almost ubiquitous today.

The 8-button model above is a nice change from the more common button arrangement.

I think the spacing of buttons on modern civilian trench coats may have to do with the habit of leaving the coat open. This doesn't work very well with more widely spaced buttons on double-breasted coats (which look like enormous tents if left open). This is just a hunch, but I'd be curious to hear what other people think.

The civilian peacoats you see nowadays tend to also have closer-spaced buttons than the old USN coats. I think it's also for this reason.

 

[Doctor Damage]

I think the spacing of buttons on modern civilian trench coats may have to do with the habit of leaving the coat open. This doesn't work very well with more widely spaced buttons on double-breasted coats (which look like enormous tents if left open). This is just a hunch, but I'd be curious to hear what other people think.

The civilian peacoats you see nowadays tend to also have closer-spaced buttons than the old USN coats. I think it's also for this reason.

You may be onto something; coats have certainly changed a lot from the WW1 period when they were introduced and become much more "civilian-ized". Belts, for example, are now much longer, which I suspect is so they can be tied if one chooses rather than buckled; rain flaps are also much longer - they still do the job, but change overall proportions.

The Burberry thing I posted above mentions the Air Warm coat and here it is (also from 1950):

 

[Doctor Damage]

Maj General J Lawton Collins in that 8-button civilian trench coat:

 

[TM]

Is the the "Get Carter" trench coat?

http://www.aquascutum.co.uk/images/products/C52000100100/C52000100100-cutout-zoom.jpg

Found here: http://www.aquascutum.co.uk/index.cfm?page=1013&productid=C520001&productvarid=C520001-00100-42R&refpage=mens-rainwear&pagesize=12&productpage=1&viewall=false

Very nice, but a tad pricey!

Tony