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Thanks, Alan! I was very pleasantly surprised when I found your post for yours last night. The Chesnut Street address was the first clue I noticed that caused me to take a closer look at this particular piece. I have to admit, I am ever so slightly disappointed the sweat is completely sewn closed. I think I remember that it's somewhat common for there to be a date stamp found on the back side for hats sold at the retail store. As you pointed out in your post, however, even the sweat is a different leather than typically used. I was hoping to pinpoint the age a little more, but I'll have to settle for knowing that the gold foil tag is associated with the 30s.
The sizing/fit is...weird. It's tagged for 7-1/4. It measures 8" x 6.5", if not a little on the high side. Yet, it's almost like there is a taper that causes it to fit tight as it's put on the head. It doesn't feel tight like trying to put on a 7-1/8, it's a different feeling. Hopefully that makes sense. It doesn't fit poorly, it just fits different than any other hat I've worn. As such it does sit a little higher on my head, but looking back through here it sounds like that was more in line with how top hats were worn. If that's the case then I'm more than fine with it being closer to period correct.
I haven't met a gibus frame that didn't collapse successfully, but of course caution would be prudent if you try it. There is not much need unless your local opera house demands that hats be collapsed when checked. 8^) If and when you do collapse the mechanism you will understand why the kid sweatband is constructed in the way that it is. The silk and leather is a one piece sleeve to allow it to fold into the mechanism predictably and return to shape when opened. It is really quite an interesting invention - from the 1840s I believe and in use for a century.
My opera hats have the same tapered form and fit small for the size. They are also quite heavy with the steel framework which adds to the odd sense of balance on the head. I have yet to wear one outside the house. Waiting for the right invitation!