Thoughts on Restoring & Matching the Finish on Mid-2000s Schott Horsehide (2008 689H & 641HH) – Open Discussion
Why This Matters
Schott horsehide jackets from the mid-2000s, particularly the 2008-era 689H & 641HH, have a distinct finish that sets them apart from later versions.
Many enthusiasts have noted that Schott’s HH finish has changed over the years, with modern versions (closer to 2020) being noticeably softer, more broken-in from the factory, and less structured.
For those who own or restore mid-2000s Schott HH, the challenge is:
How do we restore worn areas while keeping the original factory finish intact?
What are the best products to match Schott’s topcoat from this era?
Which methods work best for scratches, scuffs, and faded areas without overcoating?
The goal of this thread is to gather insights from the community and discuss the best approaches to fixing and matching the factory finish on these jackets.
Understanding the Mid-2000s Schott HH Finish
Unlike modern Schott HH, jackets from 2008-era production tend to have:
A stiffer, more structured feel when new (not as soft as later generations).
A semi-gloss, durable topcoat that enhances depth without excessive shine.
A finish that resists scratches well but can fade or scuff over time.
A common issue with jackets from this era is that worn areas lose their finish unevenly, making restoration difficult. Simply conditioning the leather does not restore the factory sheen, which requires a carefully matched topcoat.
Current Restoration Options – Open for Discussion
Several products could work for restoring the finish, but none are a perfect match. Here’s an overview of the most discussed options, their pros and cons, and where they might fall short.
If anyone has experience with these or alternatives, feel free to share your thoughts.
1. Fiebing’s Resolene (Acrylic/Polyurethane-Based – Most Durable)
Best for: Heavy-duty protection and sealing high-wear areas like cuffs, shoulders, and elbows.
Pros: Extremely durable, water-resistant, and long-lasting.
Cons: Can feel slightly plastic-like if over-applied; may stiffen flexible areas.
Application Considerations: Needs very thin coats with a damp sponge to avoid buildup or cracking.
Does anyone have experience using diluted Resolene to soften the finish and avoid plasticity?
2. Fiebing’s Tan-Kote / Bag-Kote (Semi-Aniline Factory-Like Look – Least Durable)
Best for: Maintaining a natural feel while adding light finish restoration.
Pros: Closest match to a hand-rubbed factory sheen; very natural in appearance.
Cons: Least durable, rubs off with friction or moisture, and offers little water resistance.
Application Considerations: Best used sparingly in layers, good for subtle touch-ups but not heavy wear zones.
Would blending Tan-Kote with another finish help make it more durable without losing authenticity?
3. Angelus Satin Acrylic Finisher (Balanced – Likely Closest to 2008 Factory Seal)
Best for: Achieving a factory-like satin sheen with moderate durability.
Pros: More natural than Resolene, longer-lasting than Tan-Kote, good for blending scuffs.
Cons: Wears off in high-friction areas faster than Resolene, needs occasional reapplication.
Application Considerations: Works best when applied in thin coats with a sponge or airbrush, followed by buffing.
Has anyone used Angelus Satin on high-contact areas like the cuffs or collar? Does it hold up over time?
4. Leather Hero Top Coat Satin (Polyurethane-Based – Flexible & Durable)
Best for: A balanced restoration—more protective than Tan-Kote but more natural than Resolene.
Pros: More flexible than Resolene, more durable than Angelus Satin.
Cons: Slightly thicker than the original factory finish, not fully water-resistant.
Application Considerations: Thin layers with gentle buffing help maintain a natural look.
Would this be a good compromise for restoring jackets that see regular wear?
Best Application Practices – Community Input Needed
Regardless of which product is used, applying and blending correctly is key. Some general best practices include:
Always test in an inconspicuous area first before committing to a full application.
Use THIN layers to avoid stiffness, cracking, or an overly glossy result.
Buff between coats for a natural sheen and better blending.
For scratches and small scuffs, apply selectively using a cotton swab rather than covering large areas unnecessarily.
Does anyone have techniques for better blending worn areas without over-sealing?
What We Still Don’t Know – Open Questions for Discussion
1. What was Schott’s exact factory topcoat formula for 2008 horsehide?
2. Are there better alternatives that more accurately match the original finish?
3. What are the best techniques for restoring high-wear areas like sleeves and cuffs?
4. How do different topcoats hold up over time on a heavily worn Schott HH jacket?
5. Has anyone successfully matched the original Schott sheen using a specific blend of products?
This thread is meant to be a living discussion to document what works and what doesn’t.
If anyone has tried combinations of these finishes or found other solutions, please share your insights!
Final Thoughts – A Call for Community Input
This isn’t a solved issue, and there’s little official documentation on how to properly restore the original Schott horsehide finish from the mid-2000s.
Since many owners of 2008-era 689H and 641HH jackets are now seeing wear develop, this is the time to gather and test methods for achieving a proper restoration while staying true to factory spec.
Hope to figure out a strategy on my very minor example (included pictures), but some may not be so minor.
Anyone with experience, experimental results, or insights—please contribute!
Let’s document our findings so that future enthusiasts can restore their jackets correctly without trial and error.
Why This Matters
Schott horsehide jackets from the mid-2000s, particularly the 2008-era 689H & 641HH, have a distinct finish that sets them apart from later versions.
Many enthusiasts have noted that Schott’s HH finish has changed over the years, with modern versions (closer to 2020) being noticeably softer, more broken-in from the factory, and less structured.
For those who own or restore mid-2000s Schott HH, the challenge is:
How do we restore worn areas while keeping the original factory finish intact?
What are the best products to match Schott’s topcoat from this era?
Which methods work best for scratches, scuffs, and faded areas without overcoating?
The goal of this thread is to gather insights from the community and discuss the best approaches to fixing and matching the factory finish on these jackets.
Understanding the Mid-2000s Schott HH Finish
Unlike modern Schott HH, jackets from 2008-era production tend to have:
A stiffer, more structured feel when new (not as soft as later generations).
A semi-gloss, durable topcoat that enhances depth without excessive shine.
A finish that resists scratches well but can fade or scuff over time.
A common issue with jackets from this era is that worn areas lose their finish unevenly, making restoration difficult. Simply conditioning the leather does not restore the factory sheen, which requires a carefully matched topcoat.
Current Restoration Options – Open for Discussion
Several products could work for restoring the finish, but none are a perfect match. Here’s an overview of the most discussed options, their pros and cons, and where they might fall short.
If anyone has experience with these or alternatives, feel free to share your thoughts.
1. Fiebing’s Resolene (Acrylic/Polyurethane-Based – Most Durable)
Best for: Heavy-duty protection and sealing high-wear areas like cuffs, shoulders, and elbows.
Pros: Extremely durable, water-resistant, and long-lasting.
Cons: Can feel slightly plastic-like if over-applied; may stiffen flexible areas.
Application Considerations: Needs very thin coats with a damp sponge to avoid buildup or cracking.
Does anyone have experience using diluted Resolene to soften the finish and avoid plasticity?
2. Fiebing’s Tan-Kote / Bag-Kote (Semi-Aniline Factory-Like Look – Least Durable)
Best for: Maintaining a natural feel while adding light finish restoration.
Pros: Closest match to a hand-rubbed factory sheen; very natural in appearance.
Cons: Least durable, rubs off with friction or moisture, and offers little water resistance.
Application Considerations: Best used sparingly in layers, good for subtle touch-ups but not heavy wear zones.
Would blending Tan-Kote with another finish help make it more durable without losing authenticity?
3. Angelus Satin Acrylic Finisher (Balanced – Likely Closest to 2008 Factory Seal)
Best for: Achieving a factory-like satin sheen with moderate durability.
Pros: More natural than Resolene, longer-lasting than Tan-Kote, good for blending scuffs.
Cons: Wears off in high-friction areas faster than Resolene, needs occasional reapplication.
Application Considerations: Works best when applied in thin coats with a sponge or airbrush, followed by buffing.
Has anyone used Angelus Satin on high-contact areas like the cuffs or collar? Does it hold up over time?
4. Leather Hero Top Coat Satin (Polyurethane-Based – Flexible & Durable)
Best for: A balanced restoration—more protective than Tan-Kote but more natural than Resolene.
Pros: More flexible than Resolene, more durable than Angelus Satin.
Cons: Slightly thicker than the original factory finish, not fully water-resistant.
Application Considerations: Thin layers with gentle buffing help maintain a natural look.
Would this be a good compromise for restoring jackets that see regular wear?
Best Application Practices – Community Input Needed
Regardless of which product is used, applying and blending correctly is key. Some general best practices include:
Always test in an inconspicuous area first before committing to a full application.
Use THIN layers to avoid stiffness, cracking, or an overly glossy result.
Buff between coats for a natural sheen and better blending.
For scratches and small scuffs, apply selectively using a cotton swab rather than covering large areas unnecessarily.
Does anyone have techniques for better blending worn areas without over-sealing?
What We Still Don’t Know – Open Questions for Discussion
1. What was Schott’s exact factory topcoat formula for 2008 horsehide?
2. Are there better alternatives that more accurately match the original finish?
3. What are the best techniques for restoring high-wear areas like sleeves and cuffs?
4. How do different topcoats hold up over time on a heavily worn Schott HH jacket?
5. Has anyone successfully matched the original Schott sheen using a specific blend of products?
This thread is meant to be a living discussion to document what works and what doesn’t.
If anyone has tried combinations of these finishes or found other solutions, please share your insights!
Final Thoughts – A Call for Community Input
This isn’t a solved issue, and there’s little official documentation on how to properly restore the original Schott horsehide finish from the mid-2000s.
Since many owners of 2008-era 689H and 641HH jackets are now seeing wear develop, this is the time to gather and test methods for achieving a proper restoration while staying true to factory spec.
Hope to figure out a strategy on my very minor example (included pictures), but some may not be so minor.
Anyone with experience, experimental results, or insights—please contribute!
Let’s document our findings so that future enthusiasts can restore their jackets correctly without trial and error.
