The Stetson One-Hundred "100"

[alanfgag]

The highest price I paid for a Stetson 100 was $675 almost a decade ago. It was the first one I purchased, a very nice example, clean, from an antique dealer in San Francisco. I sold it for considerably less. My suggestion would be to look for the cleanest hat you can find in your size. Don't worry about it being an investment - you won't get rich selling it - and if you find one you like, the cost of ownership will be insignificant over the years you have it. Are there differences between a 1955 and a 1965 Stetson 100? Sure, but the differences are modest in comparison to a 1940 high end Stetson clear beaver hat. If you are hoping for the earlier side of the timeline, avoid the perforated sweatband, look for a traditional 1950s keyhole size tag (this version is the last iteration before the black size tag). These $100 hats are the top of the line in American hat manufacturing at the close of their 100 year history. If you are a hat collector or enthusiast, you have to own one at some point.

 

[alanfgag]

 

[Florida_Marlin]

Newest Stetson 100. Cattleman that I rebashed. Love those 100’s.

 

[jonbuilder]

Particularly the raw edge thin ribbon one hundreds

 

[jonbuilder]

I would like to start a discussion or at least present my thoughts about seeking out a Stetson one hundred in pristine condition made in an era when Stetson still used prime beaver felt verses commissioning a new hat from a custom hater using the “center silver spot of the Beaver Belly , Approx. 1 pelt per thousand pelts processed have this silver spot on their belly meaning that it takes from 7 to 10 thousand pelts processed to make 1 dress hat body . Add to that the hand pouncing and luring” quoted from VS Custom web site that describes Sterling Beaver felt

Most of you one hundred collectors and watchers know more about the varying quality of the Stetson one hundred than myself

I will start with my personal experience with hats. I own 20 plus felt hats, turned over about that many felt hats, and worn 3 felt hats into the ground over the past twenty years. I now have one Stetson one hundred, a 60s dress fedora purchased from the granddaughter of the original owner. I owned and sold another Stetson one hundred OR style. It was in good, not pristine condition, late 50s or early 60s. When I sold the Stetson one hundred, I owned and still owned a Stetson 7X clear beaver OR style, in my size and a Dobbs 50 OR style. The Dobbs and Stetson one hundred were size 7-3/8. I am 22 ¾ LO. I chose to sell the Stetson one hundred because of the size. I decided to keep the Dobbs because I liked my Dobbs more than the Stetson, I wear my Dobbs with padding behind the sweat. Every felt hat I have owned, I purchase pre owned, all but two hats date from the 60s to the 40s

Ever since I sold my Stetson One hundred, I had my eye out for a replacement. I came to the conclusion the odds of me finding a Stetson one hundred in NOS condition from the 40s in my size; and a style I favor are small, and if I did find such a hat the price might approach $1,000. I can’t deny I got the collector bug, but I wear my hats, the prized one carefully.

Yesterday, going through Art’s Web site, I found he can make a hat in the style and proportions I want from sterling beaver for $1000, custom sized and shaped to my head.

I feel commissioning a from Art trumps trying to purchase a dream Stetson one hundred. Even if I found such a hat with a close fit, I would need to have the hat resized to fit, the hat would no longer be original.

 

[Rmccamey]

The hunt can be exciting but knowing and getting exactly what you want has it's merits. If you want one of Art's creations, order soon as Art is retiring and will stop taking custom orders in a matter of months.

 

[carouselvic]

What proof do you have that Stetson ever made a “100” in the 40’s?

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I would like to start a discussion or at least present my thoughts about seeking out a Stetson one hundred in pristine condition made in an era when Stetson still used prime beaver felt verses commissioning a new hat from a custom hater using the “center silver spot of the Beaver Belly , Approx. 1 pelt per thousand pelts processed have this silver spot on their belly meaning that it takes from 7 to 10 thousand pelts processed to make 1 dress hat body . Add to that the hand pouncing and luring” quoted from VS Custom web site that describes Sterling Beaver felt

Most of you one hundred collectors and watchers know more about the varying quality of the Stetson one hundred than myself

I will start with my personal experience with hats. I own 20 plus felt hats, turned over about that many felt hats, and worn 3 felt hats into the ground over the past twenty years. I now have one Stetson one hundred, a 60s dress fedora purchased from the granddaughter of the original owner. I owned and sold another Stetson one hundred OR style. It was in good, not pristine condition, late 50s or early 60s. When I sold the Stetson one hundred, I owned and still owned a Stetson 7X clear beaver OR style, in my size and a Dobbs 50 OR style. The Dobbs and Stetson one hundred were size 7-3/8. I am 22 ¾ LO. I chose to sell the Stetson one hundred because of the size. I decided to keep the Dobbs because I liked my Dobbs more than the Stetson, I wear my Dobbs with padding behind the sweat. Every felt hat I have owned, I purchase pre owned, all but two hats date from the 60s to the 40s

Ever since I sold my Stetson One hundred, I had my eye out for a replacement. I came to the conclusion the odds of me finding a Stetson one hundred in NOS condition from the 40s in my size; and a style I favor are small, and if I did find such a hat the price might approach $1,000. I can’t deny I got the collector bug, but I wear my hats, the prized one carefully.

Yesterday, going through Art’s Web site, I found he can make a hat in the style and proportions I want from sterling beaver for $1000, custom sized and shaped to my head.

I feel commissioning a from Art trumps trying to purchase a dream Stetson one hundred. Even if I found such a hat with a close fit, I would need to have the hat resized to fit, the hat would no longer be original.

I don’t think Stetson made a Hundred in the 1940s. The Fifty was the top, and the Hundred represents inflation and not an increase in quality. I personally would be tickled with a 7X Clear Beaver Open Road; while not as sexy as a “Hundred” it might be the better hat.

I have a 1960s Hundred in 7 1/4, but it’s NOT in your required NOS condition.

Have you thought of widening your net? A Churchill 50 or 100 perhaps? To me, there isn’t anything special about the label in the hat. I can’t attest to what a new $1000 hat from VS would compare to, but I wonder if it’s as dense and clay-like as vintage felt can be. I do know that I prefer vintage rabbit fur felt over current 100% beaver fur felt.


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[jonbuilder]

What proof do you have that Stetson ever made a “100” in the 40’s?

None: I thought I remember reading a thread on this forum where it was suggested the stetson one hundred dated from 1948. May be I am mixed up with the Stetson Fifty or 7X clear beaver I have not complete a comprehensive research with notes.

 

[carouselvic]

I have seen ads for a $90 dollar Stetson from this time frame. I have never seen one though.

 

[jonbuilder]

Have you thought of widening your net? A Churchill 50 or 100

I know hats become available equivalent in quality to a Stetson one hundred for far less than $1,000 even under $300. I was relating to stetson One hundreds and more precisely stetson one hundreds with a western favor, with wider brims,and open road crown proportions. If the felt bodies are available I see no reason a modern day hater could duplicate the Stetson one hundred. Now duplicating an early Cawanagh 100 is a different challenge. Pre war quality hats the sweat and lining would have to be considered when creating a duplication.

 

[alanfgag]

I know hats become available equivalent in quality to a Stetson one hundred for far less than $1,000 even under $300. I was relating to stetson One hundreds and more precisely stetson one hundreds with a western favor, with wider brims,and open road crown proportions. If the felt bodies are available I see no reason a modern day hater could duplicate the Stetson one hundred. Now duplicating an early Cawanagh 100 is a different challenge. Pre war quality hats the sweat and lining would have to be considered when creating a duplication.

Do you have a reason to believe there was a pre-war Cavanagh 100? What does it mean to have a hat of equivalent quality?

100 was the pinnacle of price. As noted above, era has a lot to do with price. Quality is more complicated. One if my highest quality hats was priced at 3 dollars. I just sold an open road type hat with a Stratoliner mark that was priced at 6 dollars (I think).

I'm don't want to muddy the waters in the Stetson 100 thread. A number of custom hatters (perhaps Art was one) made a special order homage to the Knox 100 that I posted and sold here some years ago. Review from those that commissioned these hats might be helpful to your quest.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I know hats become available equivalent in quality to a Stetson one hundred for far less than $1,000 even under $300. I was relating to stetson One hundreds and more precisely stetson one hundreds with a western favor, with wider brims,and open road crown proportions. If the felt bodies are available I see no reason a modern day hater could duplicate the Stetson one hundred. Now duplicating an early Cawanagh 100 is a different challenge. Pre war quality hats the sweat and lining would have to be considered when creating a duplication.

All I know is that all the custom beaver fur felt hats I own made by a half dozen different hatters don’t compare favorably to even my 1960s vintage One-Hundred. I don’t know that hat bodies exist that will allow hatters to get where you want to be. Maybe FEPSA offers something? The $1000 VS might be perfect too, but all I can do is speculate on that hat. If you get the VS there will be a lot of us who will want to hear your review.


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[alanfgag]

The top end hats by Graham at Optimo have had their fans here in the past. You'll spend more than a grand there.

 

[jlee562]

I too would like to see/read a comparison of the modern sterling beaver to the vintage felts.

Just for the record, Optimo has their equivalent of a 100 in their new collection. It's called the Americana on the page, but tellingly, the URL reads "Shady Oaks ."

https://optimo.com/collection/the-shady-oaks-in-silverbelly

 

[jonbuilder]

I too would like to see/read a comparison of the modern sterling beaver to the vintage felts.

Done: When I receive my VS sterling beaver, I will do a side by side comparison with my 60s possibly late 50s Stetson one hundred. The sweat crest has stars and the lining crest a leaf. I've have not post the one hundred here I will wait until I have the Sterling to post pictures of my Stetson 4 months

 

[jonbuilder]

Do you have a reason to believe there was a pre-war Cavanagh 100?

Sorry if I was not clear getting to my point and carelessly used the term one hundred to refer to a model or quality not a price point.
1: IMO it would be easier for a present day hater to duplicate a Stetson one hundred than a Cavanagh.
2: The current market price of a NOS Stetson one hundred from the an earlier time frame when it seems the hats were of higher quality is not far off the price of a VS sterling beaver hat.
3: With a VS Sterling a buyer has a wide choice in crown and brim dimensions and crown shape.
4: Taken the above three points in consideration, Persons looking for a NOS high quality Stetson one hundred with pre set brim and crown arrangements might consider VS Sterling beaver hat. Persons looking for a pre war Cavanagh would be hard pressed to find a hater who could duplicate.
Moving forward I see I am communicating with persons who have more knowledge of the history of vintage hats than myself and appreciate posters being careful with their hat vocabulary. I sail and the vocabulary is rigid, and necessary so, to communicate a coordinate effort to move the boat efficiently and safely.

 

[jonbuilder]

What does it mean to have a hat of equivalent quality?

Equivalent quality of the parts making up the hat; hatbody, sweatband - leather and markings, lininer, and ribbon. I am assuming the art of blocking and flanging a hat body has not been lost and the lining will be sewed to the body.

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

Done: When I receive my VS sterling beaver, I will do a side by side comparison with my 60s possibly late 50s Stetson one hundred. The sweat crest has stars and the lining crest a leaf. I've have not post the one hundred here I will wait until I have the Sterling to post pictures of my Stetson 4 months

I’d like to see your One Hundred now. One can never see them often enough.
B

 

[Just Daniel]

I went through all the Stetson ads I could find posted here on. The Lounge, and the earliest reference I could find to a $100 price point was from 1951, there is also one from ‘52. An earlier ‘48 ad for Stetsons lists them up to $90, and a ‘50 ad that makes no mention of 100s.

Some of the ads I cut and pasted here to the thread, back at note #294.

Based on that research, I am pretty confident the Stetson 100 dates to 1951 at the earliest. We can’t prove there weren’t any (“the lack of evidence is not evidence of lacking”) but the lack of advertising evidence counts as something.

Maybe we’ll find more information or someone has an ad image stored away? It would be cool to find out more!

Daniel

I would like to start a discussion or at least present my thoughts about seeking out a Stetson one hundred in pristine condition made in an era when Stetson still used prime beaver felt verses commissioning a new hat from a custom hater using the “center silver spot of the Beaver Belly , Approx. 1 pelt per thousand pelts processed have this silver spot on their belly meaning that it takes from 7 to 10 thousand pelts processed to make 1 dress hat body . Add to that the hand pouncing and luring” quoted from VS Custom web site that describes Sterling Beaver felt

Most of you one hundred collectors and watchers know more about the varying quality of the Stetson one hundred than myself

I will start with my personal experience with hats. I own 20 plus felt hats, turned over about that many felt hats, and worn 3 felt hats into the ground over the past twenty years. I now have one Stetson one hundred, a 60s dress fedora purchased from the granddaughter of the original owner. I owned and sold another Stetson one hundred OR style. It was in good, not pristine condition, late 50s or early 60s. When I sold the Stetson one hundred, I owned and still owned a Stetson 7X clear beaver OR style, in my size and a Dobbs 50 OR style. The Dobbs and Stetson one hundred were size 7-3/8. I am 22 ¾ LO. I chose to sell the Stetson one hundred because of the size. I decided to keep the Dobbs because I liked my Dobbs more than the Stetson, I wear my Dobbs with padding behind the sweat. Every felt hat I have owned, I purchase pre owned, all but two hats date from the 60s to the 40s

Ever since I sold my Stetson One hundred, I had my eye out for a replacement. I came to the conclusion the odds of me finding a Stetson one hundred in NOS condition from the 40s in my size; and a style I favor are small, and if I did find such a hat the price might approach $1,000. I can’t deny I got the collector bug, but I wear my hats, the prized one carefully.

Yesterday, going through Art’s Web site, I found he can make a hat in the style and proportions I want from sterling beaver for $1000, custom sized and shaped to my head.

I feel commissioning a from Art trumps trying to purchase a dream Stetson one hundred. Even if I found such a hat with a close fit, I would need to have the hat resized to fit, the hat would no longer be original.