The Real McCoys '30s Cooper Jacket in "Black" Horsehide

[Bennarion]

The jacket fits you very well. Here is my bag, I think also a print, five days a week the skin rubs against my clothes. More than once there was a complete blotting of the leather.No changes

 

[cellini]

Great fit and interesting leather!
Dappers make the same jacket in smooth leather

https://www.instagram.com/p/CIX9Lfjjr1X/?igshid=zdkgneukjsgx

https://dappers.jp/category/leather-jacket/

http://blog-jkstyle.jugem.jp/?eid=2932#gsc.tab=0

 

[tmitchell59]

Great fit and interesting leather!
Dappers make the same jacket in smooth leather

https://www.instagram.com/p/CIX9Lfjjr1X/?igshid=zdkgneukjsgx

https://dappers.jp/category/leather-jacket/

http://blog-jkstyle.jugem.jp/?eid=2932#gsc.tab=0

Thank you for posting these links. A rather interesting breakdown on the Johnson jacket. Actually incredible detail of the original. Wow!

They don't mention the patterning. The original in their possession is Goatskin with a pronounced grain, but is natural.

 

[Rosecitymike]

Not to derail, but Lee Miller of Texas Traditions has some of the original Russian reindeer hides. Was in the shop a couple years ago And got a tour. Really interesting leather. (And Lee is seriously one of the nicest dudes you’ll ever meet) I think I have another year plus on his waiting list but hope to get a pair of boots from him sometime, though I doubt it will be in the reindeer—would be sweet but can’t imagine the cost! I do have a pair of Zonkey Boot lace-ups in embossed leather that replicates this leather rather well and is a stunning pair of boots.

I love it and I think the fit is the best on all your jackets. These jackets must be worn short and snug or they don't look as cool as they should in my opinion.

Contrary to most people here I do like the leather patterm and yes it does remind of crosshatch grain leather that imitates the Russian Reindeer mentioned above. A few shoe brands sell that kind of leather too although it's obviously not the original which I believe only Cleverley has access to.

Once it has adapted to your body and broken in I think it will look amazing. Please wear it straight for a few weeks/a month to see how it wears!

 

[Marc mndt]

Great fit and interesting leather!
Dappers make the same jacket in smooth leather

https://www.instagram.com/p/CIX9Lfjjr1X/?igshid=zdkgneukjsgx

https://dappers.jp/category/leather-jacket/

http://blog-jkstyle.jugem.jp/?eid=2932#gsc.tab=0

Funny how I always thought the open centers vents on vintage jackets were the result of years and years of stretching.

Seeing this dapper jacket makes me realize they were actually made like this.

Edit: typo

 

[marker2037]

As has already been said, this is your best fitting jacket so far.

I wonder what will happen when you wear it and the natural grain tries to come through.
Will it take over and will the printed grain fade a bit as the natural grain takes over or will the printed grain stay that prominant. Also, i wonder how rain will affect the printing, humidity in the leather might change things a bit.

As weird as it is, i think that once broken in and serously worn this leather has the potential to look very interresting.
Please post some evo pics.

Yes that is scotch grain a corrected leather but did you see the criss-cross on the RM besides the grain creating the diamond shapes? That is like the printing on a basket ball and not on a garment.

I think you may be reffering to this "effect" that is observed when viewing the leather up close. Again, not perhaps a deal breaker for me, but gives some unique character to the jacket:

View attachment 285847

This type of embossed leather is not scotch grain, but rather "Utah" as brands such as Edward Green call it or "Alpine" (Alden) or "Russian Calf".

Here are some examples:

https://gentlemensfootwear.com/products/edward-green-dover-in-dark-brown-utah

https://www.fransboonestore.com/products/alden-alpine-grain-leather-dover

What this all means really is that it's just a crosshatch grain, which ends up being very water resistant and is usually a grain chosen for "rainy day" footwear. All these iterations are highly prized in the goodyear welt shoe/boot world so I think you're in good company. Just look at the price of what Edward Green charges and they make some of the best shoes in the world, outside of true bespoke. I own a pair of Lof & Tung chukkas in Utah grain from Skoaktiebolaget.

Sublime jacket either way and I would be happy if I was you.

 

[tmitchell59]

This is a Block Bilt from San Francisco c.1940, so 80 years old. It does not have a leather tag. It is has a soft hand and in like new condition, but unlike anything I have experienced. It changes color too, looks grey in the light, but is Black.

This must be the West Coast patterning? If this isn't it I don't know what is.
The other jacket is late 30s Bay area in steerhide that is also most unusual.

 

[marker2037]

This is a Block Bilt from San Francisco c.1940, so 80 years old. It does not have a leather tag. It is has a soft hand and in like new condition, but unlike anything I have experienced. It changes color too, looks grey in the light, but is Black.

This must be the West Coast patterning? If this isn't it I don't know what is.
The other jacket is late 30s Bay area in steerhide that is also most unusual.

View attachment 286197 View attachment 286198 View attachment 286199 View attachment 286200 View attachment 286204 View attachment 286206

That looks like natural grain to me, not embossed grain.

 

[AeroFan_07]

This is a Block Bilt from San Francisco c.1940, so 80 years old. It does not have a leather tag. It is has a soft hand and in like new condition, but unlike anything I have experienced. It changes color too, looks grey in the light, but is Black.

This must be the West Coast patterning? If this isn't it I don't know what is.
The other jacket is late 30s Bay area in steerhide that is also most unusual.

View attachment 286197 View attachment 286198 View attachment 286199 View attachment 286200 View attachment 286204 View attachment 286206

These two represent the words: Art in Leather -- to me. Thanks for sharing these Terry.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

It is a beautiful jacket. I've owned several of their jackets and lusted for others. I am intrigued by the patterning of the leather as seen on West Coast jackets. Maybe it is difficult to see/recognize when 80 + years old. Jackets from the bay area certainly had a look.

This jacket is from the late 30s San Francisco.

Is this the "patterning" ?

View attachment 286043

View attachment 286044 View attachment 286045 View attachment 286046
View attachment 286047

Thanks for posting this and the other jackets. I love this style of jacket. I'm going to have to start hunting for originals now myself.

It was all written
Best fit. thumbs up

Thanks! I think so too.

Looks to me like they’re replicating “Russian reindeer” leather, perhaps the most expensive leather in the world. It was leather tanned in 1786 or thereabouts, and then sunken on a merchant vessel. The leather was covered over with silt and remarkably preserved when divers unearthed in from the shipwreck in the 80s. It’s used only extremely pricey shoes, wallets, watch straps and other small leather goods because of its price, as it’s severely limited. It has a very distinct crosshatch grain, from whatever tanning process they used in Russia in the 1700s, long since lost to history.
View attachment 286051
View attachment 286052

It’s often replicated, but usually the cross hatch grain pattern is a bit too pronounced. Still I think it’s pretty cool.

More info
https://shoegazing.com/2016/05/05/the-picture-the-russian-reindeer-leather-from-1786/

Yeah that's what I was saying earlier. It looks more like Russian calf rather than scotch grain. I'd love to get some of that actual Russian Reindeer leather.

Just echoeing the obvious: Great jacket and perfect fit!

You clearly have an extravagant collection going, Jake. I believe the printed leather is a worthy addition. It will be an eye-opener to see it age.

As a "postscript" to the advertized color: When Belstaff was still british owned, they would sell their flagship jackets ("Panther" and "Gangster") in what they called "Vintage Black" and "Blackbrown". The former being a dark brown, the later a mid-brown. Only lately they included a color that I would call "black". Needless to say, quality, look and appeal has massively deteriorated since the early days.

Yeah with everything else I have, I don't mind having this weird leather in my collection. If it was my first jacket, then maybe not. That's not the case though.

I love it and I think the fit is the best on all your jackets. These jackets must be worn short and snug or they don't look as cool as they should in my opinion.

Contrary to most people here I do like the leather patterm and yes it does remind of crosshatch grain leather that imitates the Russian Reindeer mentioned above. A few shoe brands sell that kind of leather too although it's obviously not the original which I believe only Cleverley has access to.

Once it has adapted to your body and broken in I think it will look amazing. Please wear it straight for a few weeks/a month to see how it wears!

Yes I think it does fit me best. Hopefully the aging goes well with this jacket.

Great fit and interesting leather!
Dappers make the same jacket in smooth leather

https://www.instagram.com/p/CIX9Lfjjr1X/?igshid=zdkgneukjsgx

https://dappers.jp/category/leather-jacket/

http://blog-jkstyle.jugem.jp/?eid=2932#gsc.tab=0

Thanks for sharing this! A friend sent this jacket to me on instagram too. Measurements on this one don't work as well for me, but the jacket looks great.

 

[Blackadder]

As has already been said, this is your best fitting jacket so far.







This type of embossed leather is not scotch grain, but rather "Utah" as brands such as Edward Green call it or "Alpine" (Alden) or "Russian Calf".

Here are some examples:

https://gentlemensfootwear.com/products/edward-green-dover-in-dark-brown-utah

https://www.fransboonestore.com/products/alden-alpine-grain-leather-dover

What this all means really is that it's just a crosshatch grain, which ends up being very water resistant and is usually a grain chosen for "rainy day" footwear. All these iterations are highly prized in the goodyear welt shoe/boot world so I think you're in good company. Just look at the price of what Edward Green charges and they make some of the best shoes in the world, outside of true bespoke. I own a pair of Lof & Tung chukkas in Utah grain from Skoaktiebolaget.

Sublime jacket either way and I would be happy if I was you.

I was referring to Mark's photo which shows scotch grain boots but as I said I doubt Dude's jacket is scotch grain.
"Some leathers had embossed printing of other hide patterns which was frequently seen on leather jackets made in the west coast of America at the time. "
https://therealmccoys.com/products/30s-sports-jacket-cooper
To me it looks like they are going for some lizard skin pattern.

 

[Monitor]

This is a Block Bilt from San Francisco c.1940, so 80 years old. It does not have a leather tag. It is has a soft hand and in like new condition, but unlike anything I have experienced. It changes color too, looks grey in the light, but is Black.

This must be the West Coast patterning? If this isn't it I don't know what is.
The other jacket is late 30s Bay area in steerhide that is also most unusual.

View attachment 286197 View attachment 286198 View attachment 286199 View attachment 286200 View attachment 286204 View attachment 286206

That's goatskin.

 

[JMax]

Beautiful fit dude.

Could this be the look RMC is looking for? It’s a closeup of an early 40s Eagleson’s CHP (also had a Scully’s label). Out of SF, Cali.