The Legendary DURABLE (Wild One) Jacket

[Marc mndt]

Here's another Canadian 'pony styled by durable'. This jacket was probably the inspiration for the back design of Himel's Avro.

Note the Lightning zipper.

I think @jeo is right that there were two independent makers. If the Durable motorcycle jackets were Canadian made they most likely would have had lighting zippers.

 

[Bonasera]

Here's another Canadian 'pony styled by durable'. This jacket was probably the inspiration for the back design of Himel's Avro.

Note the Lightning zipper.

I think @jeo is right that there were two independent makers. If the Durable motorcycle jackets were Canadian made they most likely would have had lighting zippers.

View attachment 516195 View attachment 516196 View attachment 516197

My durable jacket.
Similar model with adjustment belts but no shirring on sleeves.
Front zipper is lightning, chest zipper is flash.

 

[jeo]

Yup I found the one posted on TFL, this was the jacket I was referring to. Same one as yours @Bonasera but different liner.

 

[jeo]

*Copied recent discussion about Durable from the "finds and deals" thread*

Discussion started when referencing this Durable that is currently for sale on Ebay.

By the way, this isn’t the very first of the early Durables. The earliest one doesn’t have snaps on the top collar. I’ve only seen one or two of those.

Interesting; there is an edition with no top snaps. I will have to look for that.

Inte

and stars, makes me think this is the second edition as percussor to the Red lined 3rd edition which all have stars.

is there a picture of the interior/label?

A collector told me that the one I pictured with no snaps on the top collar is the first edition of the early Durables. Unfortunately no pics of the interior or label of that one.

It does have stars. Zoom in.

Note how the belt gets slimmer towards the front kind of like a Beck 333. None of the other ones are like that.

There are early editions without stars like this one below. Has the snaps on top collar and a green quilt lining. First label.

The early ones all have a green quilt lining and the same first edition label. The one below with a (most likely replaced) black quilt lining has stars.

Then there's this one. Doesn't have zipper welts. Has the snaps on the top collar and has the green quilt lining with the first label. Does not have stars. The snaps are all pitted except for one which is super neat.

 

[Albe64]

Since it's been established on an other film jacket addicts forum, that the jacket worn by Marlon Brando in the Wild One was made by Durable (and not Schott), those jackets have become very valuable and quiet rare to find...

I'm a lucky guy, then, because I own 2 of these jackets, and n°2 arrived today!!!
:-D

I thought I'd share this with you, guys.
Look at the incredibly good condition of the material: golden zippers like new (Talon), the leather is a bit finer than my other Durable, but very well preserved, lining is like new, and the satin sleeves lining is fine and makes it very comfortable to wear.
It's a size 44.
Enjoy!

View attachment 45406 View attachment 45407 View attachment 45408 View attachment 45409 View attachment 45410 View attachment 45411 View attachment 45412 View attachment 45413
I'll try to provide fit picts ASAP.

WHAT A JACKET! Well done!!

 

[jeo]

*Continued*

I would say this is the first edition. Green lining first no stars, geen lining with stars, then black with stars, then red with stars. Along the line the belt line was discontinued.

Makes more sense to me that the model would start as basic (plain) no stars and add the adornments (stars) as the model progressed.

Not sure how to account for the missing upper snaps

These 2 look like Durables, feel like Durables View attachment 522988

View attachment 522989

I would say the black lining above is not original. No wear, too puffy, on a well worn jacket. Now that makes sense.

Until an original black lining appears I'm crossing the Black off. Went from the green to the Red in my thinking.

The non welted pockets on the green lined jacket are odd.

Are there pictures of another black lined Durable?

I doubt the green lining lasted long. Mine has a 40s zipper stop and a 50s pull. This is often seen. I just call it 1950. The Red Nylon came around by 1951 and it was the thing among many makers. Just says 50s no matter the maker.

I have a pet theory that I'm wrestling with, based on the two jackets I pictured above.

I would say this is the first edition. Green lining first no stars, geen lining with stars, then black with stars, then red with stars. Along the line the belt line was discontinued.

Makes more sense to me that the model would start as basic (plain) no stars and add the adornments (stars) as the model progressed.

Definitely makes sense.

Not sure how to account for the missing upper snaps

I bet the jacket without the upper collar snaps had a green lining and who knows, maybe the stars were added. If so, that would make it even more basic.

These 2 look like Durables, feel like Durables View attachment 522988

View attachment 522989

The one instantly recognizable thing about a Durable is the bottom collar that has more of a downward angle than most other ‘W’ collars creating a bigger gap between the upper and lower collar. If Durable has a trademark, that's it and to me these Spiegels look nothing like a Durable.

I would say the black lining above is not original. No wear, too puffy, on a well worn jacket. Now that makes sense.

You're right, it probably was a replacement.

Until an original black lining appears I'm crossing the Black off. Went from the green to the Red in my thinking. Are there pictures of another black lined Durable?

Not with a label and what are likely replacement liners just like the first one I posted like this one below.

The non welted pockets on the green lined jacket are odd.

I found two others. This first one has what looks to be a replacement liner and also has pitted snaps.

I have a pet theory that I'm wrestling with, based on the two jackets I pictured above.

Would love to hear it.

Perhaps Durable was private label?

I found a Japanese collector that has all types of Durable style MC jackets but with other labels in them, some stores, some manufacturers. Most of the pictures in my recent posts are from his collection.

Knopf

Donald S. Lavigne

Johnny Farrel Sportswear by Davega

South Fashion C (something) Stores

Genuine American Leather Sportswear by American Sportswear Co.

There was also a sheepskin version and with a Durable label

 

[Albe64]

Supposedly, that's the one, yeah. Supposedly, Schott acquired Durable at some point & incorporated some of the design features into their jackets, hence their claim Brando is wearing a Schott. We'll never know, though, but Durable is the closest match, yeah.

In any case, that's a perfect Perfecto if I've ever seen one. Congratulations.

Schott also put on the market a "James Dean" repro...when everybody knew that the original one was a CAL....Bad choice imho....

 

[tmitchell59]

This looks to have a 40s Talon zipper pull. Mine has a 40s stop box and 50s Talon pull. This would be an earlier model?

I noticed too that 2 of the jackets posted from the collector are Steerhide! One is sheepskin!

This one baffles me too. Perhaps they didn't want to make a MC jacket so contracted to Durable? this company made many styles of jackets under this label and none the quality of a Durable. Never seen a MC jacket with this label till now.

This is quite the story to unravel

 

[tmitchell59]

Here's another Canadian 'pony styled by durable'. This jacket was probably the inspiration for the back design of Himel's Avro.

Note the Lightning zipper.

I think @jeo is right that there were two independent makers. If the Durable motorcycle jackets were Canadian made they most likely would have had lighting zippers.

View attachment 516195 View attachment 516196 View attachment 516197 View attachment 516198

My durable jacket.
Similar model with adjustment belts but no shirring on sleeves.
Front zipper is lightning, chest zipper is flash.
View attachment 516258 View attachment 516264 View attachment 516265 View attachment 516266

Yup I found the one posted on TFL, this was the jacket I was referring to. Same one as yours @Bonasera but different liner.

View attachment 516270 View attachment 516271

These jackets are amazing and a testimony to the high quality of Durable labeled jackets. The Cafe racer I owned was also a stunning jacket.

I have questioned the use of "American" zippers on the Durable labeled jackets. Perhaps they simple made jackets for two markets. One using US zippers. These jackets are mostly from the 1950s.

What a mystery!

 

[Aloysius]

Schott also put on the market a "James Dean" repro...when everybody knew that the original one was a CAL....Bad choice imho....

This is misleading. (And you're responding to a 7 year old post.)

Yeah, James Dean wore a Cal and an Indian of some kind. Not disputing that at all.

However, Schott was approached by the James Dean Foundation to make a repro of one of his jackets. They didn't claim to have made the original–it was explicitly a collaboration with the foundation, which had made very particular requests such as the need to use horsehide (which was not really available in the 80s, before the Aero wave).

Additionally, Schott had already been making CHPs for a long time at that point, both a pure CHP and a version that added the Perfecto-type ticket pocket, presumably aimed at the police contract market. In fact, they continued to until fairly recently.

 

[Albe64]

This is misleading. (And you're responding to a 7 year old post.)

Yeah, James Dean wore a Cal and an Indian of some kind. Not disputing that at all.

However, Schott was approached by the James Dean Foundation to make a repro of one of his jackets. They didn't claim to have made the original–it was explicitly a collaboration with the foundation, which had made very particular requests such as the need to use horsehide (which was not really available in the 80s, before the Aero wave).

Additionally, Schott had already been making CHPs for a long time at that point, both a pure CHP and a version that added the Perfecto-type ticket pocket, presumably aimed at the police contract market. In fact, they continued to until fairly recently.

Thank you for claryfing.....btw horsehide in the 80s was surely available but expensive

 

[Aloysius]

Thank you for claryfing.....btw horsehide in the 80s was surely available but expensive

It was, just quite hard to procure. When Aero contacted Horween in the 80s about garment horsehide it was the first order they'd had in ages.

 

[tmitchell59]

Steerhide Durable found in Japan by @Marc mndt

 

[Canuck Panda]

Do we know if Brando wore just ONE jacket during filming, or were there several?

Unless I am seeing imaginary things, there are at least two jackets from the screen shots. One has the underarm footballs / camel toe, one does not.

Underarm football:

No underarm footballs:

If the film jacket had underarm footballs then it couldn't have been a Schott right? Since the 613 underarm football is a more recent thing? But if one of the film jacket didn't have underarm footballs, could it have been a 613? Except the belt loops are still too thick to be a 613 right? Or maybe Schott did send free jackets to be used on the film set and maybe even paid for advertising except the jackets used weren't actually 613 but Durable. The plot thickens. All above are my own speculation not fact based.

 

[Aloysius]

Unless I am seeing imaginary things, there are at least two jackets from the screen shots. One has the underarm footballs / camel toe, one does not.

Canuck just JFKed this whole thing. Film Jackets Rick would be proud.

THERE ARE TWO JACKETS.

 

[jeo]

Unless I am seeing imaginary things, there are at least two jackets from the screen shots. One has the underarm footballs / camel toe, one does not.

Underarm football:
View attachment 526343
View attachment 526344

No underarm footballs:
View attachment 526345
View attachment 526346
View attachment 526347

If the film jacket had underarm footballs then it couldn't have been a Schott right? Since the 613 underarm football is a more recent thing? But if one of the film jacket didn't have underarm footballs, could it have been a 613? Except the belt loops are still too thick to be a 613 right? Or maybe Schott did send free jackets to be used on the film set and maybe even paid for advertising except the jackets used weren't actually 613 but Durable. The plot thickens. All above are my own speculation not fact based.

You're not imagining anything...however...

The underarm gussets on a Durable are not visible from the back or the sides when you lift your arm when wearing.

There was only one jacket, not two.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Just looking through all the labels from Jeo's legendary post two pages back, and I grouped them all on one jpeg:

A few more details I've noticed:
1) Labels in column 1 are all "embroidered" labels. The linings are also consistent of the lined rayon/nylon type.
2) Labels in column 2, Henry Morgan one is printed, Grant Holden one is embroidered.

More info on Henry Morgan, is a Canadian department store from the mid 1800s, rooted in old Canada (French speaking Montreal). Bought out by the Bay in the 60s and then went under...

Grant Holden, is a Canadian wholesale/Manufacturer from the early 1900s, located in Ottawa (Mostly English speaking), specialized in textile manufacturing. Grant Holden supplied military textile goods in the first war.

I will be looking at the house brands of Macy's from the early 1900s, see if I can find anything there. I've got a hunch, feels like that's where I should look next...

 

[jeo]

Just looking through all the labels from Jeo's legendary post two pages back, and I grouped them all on one jpeg:

View attachment 530535

A few more details I've noticed:
1) Labels in column 1 are all "embroidered" labels. The linings are also consistent of the lined rayon/nylon type.
2) Labels in column 2, Henry Morgan one is printed, Grant Holden one is embroidered.

More info on Henry Morgan, is a Canadian department store from the mid 1800s, rooted in old Canada (French speaking Montreal). Bought out by the Bay in the 60s and then went under...
View attachment 530544

Grant Holden, is a Canadian wholesale/Manufacturer from the early 1900s, located in Ottawa (Mostly English speaking), specialized in textile manufacturing. Grant Holden supplied military textile goods in the first war.
View attachment 530545

I will be looking at the house brands of Macy's from the early 1900s, see if I can find anything there. I've got a hunch, feels like that's where I should look next...

I found another really cool Durable of Canada label with a bulldog.

 

[jonbuilder]

@Peacoat I suggest this thread be added to the links to important reads. Lots of historical information is located in one thread.

 

[Leather Walker]

Looking for jackets on Japanese sites, I've bumped into this BerBerJin's post. What a beauty.