" The Great British Hat Makers "

[Wangenheim]

A Lincoln Bennett& Co bowler. Size is 56
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Unfortunately no label pics since I don't dare flipping the sweatband. It's not dry or anything, but it's very thick and not flexible. Never seen one like that before, still very high quality leather.

The crowned oval part of the Lincoln Bennett Logo (which also was at one time the whole logo - but I just didn't find an example for this) just reminded me of the mysterious logo in my "London" Boater. Scrolling down I also spotted the three feathered imprint on the sweatband (or are these palm leafs?), that is repeated with the "Very smart" in my boater. So could this boater be a Lincoln Bennett or a manufacturer, who copied the brand logo of LB?

 

[Steve1857]

The crowned oval part of the Lincoln Bennett Logo (which also was at one time the whole logo - but I just didn't find an example for this) just reminded me of the mysterious logo in my "London" Boater. Scrolling down I also spotted the three feathered imprint on the sweatband (or are these palm leafs?), that is repeated with the "Very smart" in my boater. So could this boater be a Lincoln Bennett or a manufacturer, who copied the brand logo of LB?

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Nice Boater with a Bon Ton Ivy stitching.

However, the three feathers on the sweatband have nothing to do with Lincoln Bennett.

The three feathers on Panos' Bowler refer to the heraldic badge of the Prince of Wales, who Lincoln and Bennett were royal suppliers to. At that time it would have been Edward Prince of Wales, later, for a very short period of less than a year, King Edward VIII.

The three feathers on the sweat of your Boater are probably just a copy of something the maker thought looked nice.

 

[Wangenheim]

I found an example of the Lincoln Bennett crowned oval as the only logo. The whole thing came to my mind, as we had this d'Arval which turned out to be a Mossant, because of the very similar logo. But this crowned oval seems was quite popular. I added a logo of a company I don't know, perhaps the same as my boater: "Best Quality London" and also with a star in the centre (six pointed this time) - But maybe this all was Lincoln Bennett under cover.

What is a bon ton ivy stitching? The loose sweat band stitching?

 

[Steve1857]

I found an example of the Lincoln Bennett crowned oval as the only logo. The whole thing came to my mind, as we had this d'Arval which turned out to be a Mossant, because of the very similar logo. But this crowned oval seems was quite popular. I added a logo of a company I don't know, perhaps the same as my boater: "Best Quality London" and also with a star in the centre (six pointed this time) - But maybe this all was Lincoln Bennett under cover.

What is a bon ton ivy stitching? The loose sweat band stitching?

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Yes, Bon Ton Ivy is the name of the loose sweatband stitching.

Many hat makers used crowns in their logos. All three in your last post are very different crowns. Again, I very much doubt Lincoln Bennet had anything to do with them.

 

[Wangenheim]

Yes, Bon Ton Ivy is the name of the loose sweatband stitching.

Many hat makers used crowns in their logos. All three in your last post are very different crowns. Again, I very much doubt Lincoln Bennet had anything to do with them.

Could you please name these manufacturers with crowned ovals or circles? I would like to compare the logos. Maybe there are larger similarities there, which lead us further.

 

[Steve1857]

Could you please name these manufacturers with crowned ovals or circles? I would like to compare the logos. Maybe there are larger similarities there, which lead us further.

Good luck. But I think you're barking up the wrong tree while going down a rabbit hole.

Here are just three. All different, no similarities apart from a circle and crown.

 

[Wangenheim]

Good luck. But I think you're barking up the wrong tree while going down a rabbit hole.

Here are just three. All different, no similarities apart from a circle and crown.

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Thank you, but I find this much interesting. Because I don't think, that these are all producers. John Barker & Company for example is a retailer. It's clear that another company produced for them. The logo in my Boater refers to the hatter, not the retailer.

In the case of the upper two of your examples we don't even have a company name, much like in the case of my boater. So the question ramains: Who is the maker of these hats? Maybe it's always the same (maybe not in your last example, as this for sure is the retailers logo).

 

[Steve1857]

Thank you, but I find this much interesting. Because I don't think, that these are all producers. John Barker & Company for example is a retailer. It's clear that another company produced for them. The logo in my Boater refers to the hatter, not the retailer.

In the case of the upper two of your examples we don't even have a company name, much like in the case of my boater. So the question ramains: Who is the maker of these hats? Maybe it's always the same (maybe not in your last example, as this for sure is the retailers logo).

Retailers didn't necessarily have a logo, but could get their retail name on a logo produced by the maker.

 

[Wangenheim]

Retailers didn't necessarily have a logo, but could get their retail name on a logo produced by the maker.

Which would in turn also add your last example to the bunch. It would be really interesting, which hatmaker it was. London based clearly. But I guess there were many : D

As long as we don't have a hatter with a similiar logo, the likelyhood of being Bennett the unknown is definitely elevated. Especially as the quality of all the examples I have seen so far is quite good. But I don't bet my shirt of course ; )

 

[Steve1857]

Thank you, but I find this much interesting. Because I don't think, that these are all producers. John Barker & Company for example is a retailer. It's clear that another company produced for them. The logo in my Boater refers to the hatter, not the retailer.

In the case of the upper two of your examples we don't even have a company name, much like in the case of my boater. So the question ramains: Who is the maker of these hats? Maybe it's always the same (maybe not in your last example, as this for sure is the retailers logo).

Re my reply about retailers and hat makers, here's a link to an Oldham and Fogg trade catalogue I own.

Post in thread '" The Great British Hat Makers "' https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/the-great-british-hat-makers.66592/post-2697674

 

[Steve1857]

Which would in turn also add your last example to the bunch. It would be really interesting, which hatmaker it was. London based clearly. But I guess there were many : D

As long as we don't have a hatter with a similiar logo, the likelyhood of being Bennett the unknown is definitely elevated. Especially as the quality of all the examples I have seen so far is quite good. But I don't bet my shirt of course ;

What similarity?

There were many good quality hat makers in and especially out of London. The Manchester hat makers are, of course, among the best.

They often had a London designation on their hat logos. It just sounded "better" because London was more well known and it sold more hats.

 

[Wangenheim]

That's great! Such catalogues from a couple of London hatters and somewhere the logos above would clearly appear. But I'm sure this example from just one manufacturer is precious enough and one could not hope for much more.

 

[steur]

Slater spiral stitch fedora in grey heather felt. Size 59 with the overwelt brim at 5cm and the crown at 10,5cm at the center dent. Nice lightweight hat at 81 grams. English brand name and sold by an Italian retailer. Couldn't find anything useful on Slater as a manufacturer.

 

[steur]

Failsworth once held the Stetson license for the UK. Occasionally I find one of their own brand hats. These days they still produce felt hats, but these are nowhere near the quality they once produced.
This one I picked up recently and it sits somewhere in the middle. The felt quality is fantastic, but it is pre-formed and its proportions are more modern. It's more what I think of as a trilby instead of a fedora.

Failsworth trilby (or a stingy brimmed fedora) in black longhair finish with some heathering going on. Raw edge brim at 4,5cm and the crown at 10cm at the center dent. This felt deserved a better proportioned and shaped hat. Pity.

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Among the end-of-season of Italian hats production, this purebred English hat has also arrived.

I don't have much experience with Lock & Co. hatter manufacturing, this is a nice product with a great color, maybe I'm biased because I love blue hats.

I have not found any label that could give me indications regarding its characteristics.

It is an unlined hat with leather sweatband, with good formability and very attractive look.

New like his other Italian companions is size 59 cm, or 7 1/4 in UK and 7 3/8 in US.
These are the measures: the raw brims are at 5.5cm, the ribbon is 1cm high and the fully open crown is 13cm.

Thank you very much for your appreciation of the brown Barbisio.

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Among the end-of-season of Italian hats production, this purebred English hat has also arrived.

I don't have much experience with Lock & Co. hatter manufacturing, this is a nice product with a great color, maybe I'm biased because I love blue hats.

I have not found any label that could give me indications regarding its characteristics.

It is an unlined hat with leather sweatband, with good formability and very attractive look.

New like his other Italian companions is size 59 cm, or 7 1/4 in UK and 7 3/8 in US.
These are the measures: the raw brims are at 5.5cm, the ribbon is 1cm high and the fully open crown is 13cm.

Thank you very much for your appreciation of the brown Barbisio.

Truely a wonderful blue, Daniele!

 

[steur]

Among the end-of-season of Italian hats production, this purebred English hat has also arrived.

I don't have much experience with Lock & Co. hatter manufacturing, this is a nice product with a great color, maybe I'm biased because I love blue hats.

I have not found any label that could give me indications regarding its characteristics.

It is an unlined hat with leather sweatband, with good formability and very attractive look.

New like his other Italian companions is size 59 cm, or 7 1/4 in UK and 7 3/8 in US.
These are the measures: the raw brims are at 5.5cm, the ribbon is 1cm high and the fully open crown is 13cm.

Thank you very much for your appreciation of the brown Barbisio.

That is a nice example, Daniele. These Lock hats vary quite a bit in quality I've found, but they can be very fine hats. Great colour.

 

[M Hatman]

Not sure I have ever posted this Black Homburg. I have had it some time and cannot remember where I got it (maybe from someone here???).
Perhaps late 50's -1960 or so....but really have no idea with these British hats......could be much newer. Hat is like it was purchased yesterday.
Marked James Robinson & Sons....could not find much of anything about them.
5 3/4" crown, 2 1/4" to curl. Felt is really nice. It is VERY well made.
Anyway please let me know about the maker and what ever you know....

Sewn Liner as seen......

 

[Steve1857]

Not sure I have ever posted this Black Homburg. I have had it some time and cannot remember where I got it (maybe from someone here???).
Perhaps late 50's -1960 or so....but really have no idea with these British hats......could be much newer. Hat is like it was purchased yesterday.
Marked James Robinson & Sons....could not find much of anything about them.
5 3/4" crown, 2 1/4" to curl. Felt is really nice. It is VERY well made.
Anyway please let me know about the maker and what ever you know....
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Sewn Liner as seen......
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Looks a nice Homburg, Mark. The Romiley, Stockport designations point obviously to one of the Manchester hatmakers, and even more obviously to one of the Stockport hatters.

I think yours is from the mid to late 60s after 5 of the top Manchester factories banded together to form the Associated British Hat Manufacturers Ltd. in the mid 60s.

Battersby & Co, T&W Lees, Christy & Co were three of the 5 from Stockport. The other two, Moores and Joseph Wilson, were from Denton.

Production was concentrated at the Christy's factory in Stockport and the Wilson factory in Denton.

The fabric label looks like one I have on a Joseph Wilson hat I have.

 

[steur]

Not sure I have ever posted this Black Homburg. I have had it some time and cannot remember where I got it (maybe from someone here???).
Perhaps late 50's -1960 or so....but really have no idea with these British hats......could be much newer. Hat is like it was purchased yesterday.
Marked James Robinson & Sons....could not find much of anything about them.
5 3/4" crown, 2 1/4" to curl. Felt is really nice. It is VERY well made.
Anyway please let me know about the maker and what ever you know....
View attachment 503954
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Sewn Liner as seen......
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Had to look it up, but I was the enabler in this case
Good looking hat it is too. I think Moores used these size labels as well. Apparently the company was founded in 1880 and closed down during the first world war. The brand name was kept though.