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The Dobbs Diner...

Messages
19,465
Location
Funkytown, USA
On second thought, it looks like the plastic part is stitched into the lining. Was this common?

Yes, beginning in probably the late 40s or so, many manufacturers began adding liner tip protectors to their hats. Many of these are an oilskin-type cover. These were later replaced with a more plastic liner tip protector. The theory is that, as men began to use more pomades, etc. in their hair, the hats needed protection from bleed-through of the hair gunk. If it's in good shape, I'd leave it in place.
 

jviss

Familiar Face
Messages
79
Location
Massachusetts
Yes, beginning in probably the late 40s or so, many manufacturers began adding liner tip protectors to their hats. Many of these are an oilskin-type cover. These were later replaced with a more plastic liner tip protector. The theory is that, as men began to use more pomades, etc. in their hair, the hats needed protection from bleed-through of the hair gunk. If it's in good shape, I'd leave it in place.
Thank you!

It looks just awful, so I've decided to remove it. I've removed the liner, which was hot-glued in, ripped the stitches holding the top in, the "bucket," so to speak; The lining looks nice, the 'clear' plastic looks crummy. I pressed the top and sides of the lining and am preparing to sew them back together (on the machine).

2022-01-05%2009.42.16.jpg


2022-01-05%2009.50.16.jpg


2022-01-05%2009.51.26.jpg
 

jviss

Familiar Face
Messages
79
Location
Massachusetts
If I could find a very, very thin, flexible, crystal-clear material I would put it in, as I think it would look nice, and also protect the liner from skin and hair oils, and hair products.

Decided to make a pattern from the pieces before I stitch them together. I can practice making some liners from some Bemberg [1] I have on hand.

jv

[1] Bemberg is a high quality, cuprammonium Rayon, next best thing to silk for suit linings. I think it would also make superb hat linings.
 
Messages
19,465
Location
Funkytown, USA
If I could find a very, very thin, flexible, crystal-clear material I would put it in, as I think it would look nice, and also protect the liner from skin and hair oils, and hair products.

Decided to make a pattern from the pieces before I stitch them together. I can practice making some liners from some Bemberg [1] I have on hand.

jv

[1] Bemberg is a high quality, cuprammonium Rayon, next best thing to silk for suit linings. I think it would also make superb hat linings.

I kinda like the old protectors, even after they've yellowed from the age. I've had a few that were ripped or partially gone that I've completed the removal on, but I think they give the hat character (shrug).
 

jviss

Familiar Face
Messages
79
Location
Massachusetts
Stop me if this is too far off-track.

I started sewing the liner back together and discovered (duh!) that the side part is gathered at the seam attached to the top part. Time to finally try out the ruffler attachment for my sewing machine! It gathers, and will do so as the gathered material is sewn to another piece.

I have so far tried twice to sew these together. I'm getting concerned about all the needle holes! I might just cut out some fabric and practice on that.

FWIW, I recently purchased what I think is the best home machine ever made, a Singer 503a. I have all of the available presser feet (I think!) and all of the available "fashion discs," the programming discs for different stitches. It's a solid machine, and I'll be sewing the liner on it, as well as sewing a sweatband to my straw Panama.
 
Messages
19,465
Location
Funkytown, USA
Stop me if this is too far off-track.

I started sewing the liner back together and discovered (duh!) that the side part is gathered at the seam attached to the top part. Time to finally try out the ruffler attachment for my sewing machine! It gathers, and will do so as the gathered material is sewn to another piece.

I have so far tried twice to sew these together. I'm getting concerned about all the needle holes! I might just cut out some fabric and practice on that.

FWIW, I recently purchased what I think is the best home machine ever made, a Singer 503a. I have all of the available presser feet (I think!) and all of the available "fashion discs," the programming discs for different stitches. It's a solid machine, and I'll be sewing the liner on it, as well as sewing a sweatband to my straw Panama.

You may want to check out these two threads for further discussions in these areas.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/hat-making-learning-millinery.57311/

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/photos-of-hatters-tools.27503/
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,927
Location
Denmark
Stop me if this is too far off-track.

I started sewing the liner back together and discovered (duh!) that the side part is gathered at the seam attached to the top part. Time to finally try out the ruffler attachment for my sewing machine! It gathers, and will do so as the gathered material is sewn to another piece.

I have so far tried twice to sew these together. I'm getting concerned about all the needle holes! I might just cut out some fabric and practice on that.

FWIW, I recently purchased what I think is the best home machine ever made, a Singer 503a. I have all of the available presser feet (I think!) and all of the available "fashion discs," the programming discs for different stitches. It's a solid machine, and I'll be sewing the liner on it, as well as sewing a sweatband to my straw Panama.

I agree with Jim @Frunobulax, I wouldn't have removed the original protective cover.

However, cudos to you that you can do it in an orderly fashion and then put the liner back in.

It's your hat after all.
 

jviss

Familiar Face
Messages
79
Location
Massachusetts
Got a Dobbs in the mail today! A beautiful, nearly new condition black Fedora, in the box. I swear, this is like a new hat!

Only issue is that even though it's a 7 1/8, it's still loose on me. Do Dobbs run big?

Yes, there's lint on it - no longer! It has a very snappy brim.

Other than the size issue, I'm thrilled. But I'm certain some judiciously placed sizing strips will resolve this.

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Messages
11,907
Got a Dobbs in the mail today! A beautiful, nearly new condition black Fedora, in the box. I swear, this is like a new hat!

Only issue is that even though it's a 7 1/8, it's still loose on me. Do Dobbs run big?

Yes, there's lint on it - no longer! It has a very snappy brim.

Other than the size issue, I'm thrilled. But I'm certain some judiciously placed sizing strips will resolve this.

1.jpeg


2.jpeg


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4.jpeg


5.jpeg
Nice addition
 

jviss

Familiar Face
Messages
79
Location
Massachusetts
Nice hat.

I am also a 7 1/8 and have several Dobbs in my meager rack. They all run true to size and fit me well.
Thanks. As I posted in another thread, a miracle happened! I took the home made card stock and paper towel sizing strip out from behind the sweat band and just wore the hat around the house for a couple of hours. After that while it conformed to my head and now I must say it fits perfectly! I don't understand it, but I'm not complaining!
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
Thank you!

It looks just awful, so I've decided to remove it. I've removed the liner, which was hot-glued in, ripped the stitches holding the top in, the "bucket," so to speak; The lining looks nice, the 'clear' plastic looks crummy. I pressed the top and sides of the lining and am preparing to sew them back together (on the machine).

2022-01-05%2009.42.16.jpg


2022-01-05%2009.50.16.jpg


2022-01-05%2009.51.26.jpg


I also like the old liner protectors. They do get cloudy and opaque, but I still like them. It’s legitimate patina and an original part of the hat. When they tear or start leaving bits in my hair I’ll remove them, but otherwise I like them.
 

jviss

Familiar Face
Messages
79
Location
Massachusetts
I also like the old liner protectors. They do get cloudy and opaque, but I still like them. It’s legitimate patina and an original part of the hat. When they tear or start leaving bits in my hair I’ll remove them, but otherwise I like them.
I replaced mine, which was virtually opaque, and "dirty" looking, with 4 gauge vinyl. Unlike wire sizes, vinyl gauge is equivalent to mils, or thousandths of an inch. So, 0.004" thick vinyl. I got a remnant that was 1/2 yard by 54" at Joann's for 75¢.

The trickiest part was figuring out how to gather the sides of the lining, as was originally done. I did this with the ruffler foot on my Singer Slant-O-Matic, model 503a.

2022-01-07 15.49.59.jpg

It's not perfect, as my first attempt (I actually sewed and ripped twice before this). But, it's nice. The hat doesn't fit me, it's a 7 3/8, in case anyone's interested. I bought it as it was advertised as a 7 1/8, but I didn't return it as I wanted the box. :).
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
Dobbs Gay Prince in a great buckskin color. 5 1/2” open crown and 2 1/2” brim. The size is 7 1/2 US or 60cm. The felt has a great antelope/suede finish and the hat is very lightweight. I was thinking I’d have to move this hat on, but while snug it does fit! Some light moth damage limited to the felt hat band. The felt is very thin and is easily dry creased:

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Messages
11,907
Dobbs Gay Prince in a great buckskin color. 5 1/2” open crown and 2 1/2” brim. The size is 7 1/2 US or 60cm. The felt has a great antelope/suede finish and the hat is very lightweight. I was thinking I’d have to move this hat on, but while snug it does fit! Some light moth damage limited to the felt hat band. The felt is very thin and is easily dry creased:

View attachment 394713 View attachment 394714 View attachment 394715 View attachment 394716 View attachment 394717 View attachment 394718 View attachment 394719 View attachment 394720 View attachment 394721 View attachment 394722
Oh how cool… I’m so glad you found one that fits. Special felts they are.
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
Dobbs Twenty project hat:

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This hat needs work, but the bones are good. It needs to have the sweatband re-sewn and a new ribbon. I’d also have it lured. Send me a PM if you are interested in the hat. If you want to use Wolfbrae, I can include it in my next shipment to him and and save you the shipping costs. ($30 plus shipping).
 

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