The detachable club collar... popular in 1910s-1920s?

[Jovan]

I've been noticing it considerably in The Adventures of Young Indiana Jones. Indy and many other characters are often seen wearing it. Oddly, the tie seems to go below the collar stud most of the time. I don't know if it's because of the nature of the collar or if that was the style. I've never worn a detachable collar myself.

Was this very popular in this era? The equivalent of the point collar in the 1930s?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

It was very popular, yes ... but it had many, many variations. Back in the early 1900s, there was no 'one' rounded (club) collar: there were literally dozens of types which varied in roundness, spread, and height.


Rounded detachable collars had been around in one form or another since the 1860s; their popularity lasted until the 1920s, when they started to be associated with fuddy duddy Edwardians.


Although there have been periodic revivals of this collar on shirts (and some ultratraditional menswear stores have never stopped selling them), it has been out of the spotlight since at least 1932, when political cartoonists opposing then-president Herbert Hoover depicted his high rounded collar as outmoded and stuffy.

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[Orgetorix]

I've been noticing it considerably in The Adventures of Young Indiana Jones. Indy and many other characters are often seen wearing it. Oddly, the tie seems to go below the collar stud most of the time. I don't know if it's because of the nature of the collar or if that was the style. I've never worn a detachable collar myself.

Was this very popular in this era? The equivalent of the point collar in the 1930s?

It was a popular style, yes. In the days when men wore detachable collars, there were literally scores, maybe hundreds, of styles available. Variations on the club were just some of the popular ones. For some reason, perhaps because it's rare today, the club seems to have become the collar style of choice for modern period pieces set in the teens and twenties.

I see a lot of photos of men wearing stiff collars where their tie isn't snugged all the way up into the collar and the stud is showing. I've worn them once or twice, and because of the stiffness of the collar it can be difficult if your tie knot isn't small enough or the collar has a very narrow spread.


Edit: Dammit, Marc, I'm just going to stop answering questions when you're around. ;-)

 

[Jovan]

Interesting. I figured it was something to do with the stiffness, collar stud or narrowness, if not all three factors. I did see him wearing a softer club collar later into the series, which I think looks great. Tie was still a bit low, but looks fine since the round brass stud adds a bit of decorative flair.

I may have to get a detachable club collar shirt someday, and the studs of course. Up to it, Magnoli?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Orgetorix, did we just have a psychic moment with each other? Nearly identical commentary, posted at the same time.


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[Marc Chevalier]

I may have to get a detachable club collar shirt someday, and the studs of course.

Never-used, still-in-the-box rounded collars from the 1900s and 'teens pop up on eBay every week. So do collarless shirts from the '20s and '30s.

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[Orgetorix]

Orgetorix, did we just have a psychic moment with each other? Nearly identical commentary, posted at the same time.
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Yeah...you're just quicker on the draw. Remind me never to get into a gunfight with you.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

lol But seriously, Orgetorix ... we complement each other. You gave some extra information that I didn't, and vice-versa. I'm glad that you make these posts, because you teach me (and all of us) with them. Keep 'em coming! :eusa_clap


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[Feraud]

Does anyone produce club collars today?
I remember seeing them in limited quantities about 10 years ago or so in men's stores. The last time I was out looking at shirts I did not see any.

 

[Orgetorix]

lol But seriously, Orgetorix ... we complement each other. You gave some extra information that I didn't, and vice-versa. I'm glad that you make these posts, because you teach me (and all of us) with them. Keep 'em coming! :eusa_clap


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Thanks...I agree with you. Though, FWIW, I have to admit I don't have a lot of firsthand experience with any of this stuff. I just repeat what I've read elsewhere and learned from others.

 

[Orgetorix]

Does anyone produce club collars today?
I remember seeing them in limited quantities about 10 years ago or so in men's stores. The last time I was out looking at shirts I did not see any.

Seems I remember seeing them on occasion at Brooks Brothers, and J Press has them.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Does anyone produce club collars today?

A couple of years ago, Tommy Hilfiger produced medium/dark blue shirts with a white club collar. They turn up in thrift stores and on eBay from time to time. Brooks Brothers and Ralph Lauren Polo also offer some dress shirts with club collars. Cable Car Clothiers in San Francisco used to sell them, too: they called the style "Oxford Midlands," and were made of oxford cloth. Don't know if you can get one today.

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[Indy Magnoli]

Up to it, Magnoli?

Ironically, I was going to do a replica of one of the exact shirts you mentioned seeing in that series for someone. Unfortunately, his funds ran out as he had to take a trip to India... got an "Adventure Shirt" for that journey.

I will be doing a shirt and set of collars for a Lounger in the very near future, but they won't be round tipped, unfortunately. I would love to do one just like Young Indy's (I've got a great striped material which would work perfectly for the shirts body). Drop me a line for more details...

Kind regards,
Indy

 

[Stiff Collared]

Seems I remember seeing them on occasion at Brooks Brothers, and J Press has them.

I have over 100 Stiff detachable Collars in all styles which I wear regularly.I have some like the round Edwardian style that Young Indy wear in the series as well as a deeper 3 inch round Victorian style. My particular favourite which I wear the most frequently is a long pointed style which I bought from Harvie and Hudson in Jermyn Street, Piccadilly in 1980. When my neck got thicker as I got older I found that these deep styles were no longer available. I solved that problem by having them copied for me by Budd of Piccadilly. They make their Collars from linen rather than cotton which makes them much stiffer when they are starched properly. You can buy Stiff Collars on line from Luke-Eyres.com. I have not dealt with them but I know guys who have and they were quite pleased with them, and their prices are reasonable.

 

[Jovan]

Never-used, still-in-the-box rounded collars from the 1900s and 'teens pop up on eBay every week. So do collarless shirts from the '20s and '30s.

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Thanks for the tip. I'll have to see how much they go for though, because ironically enough it can be less expensive to get a shirt like that from Indy or other shirtmakers sometimes. Additionally, I prefer a softer collar after wearing so many fused shirts over the years.

Ironically, I was going to do a replica of one of the exact shirts you mentioned seeing in that series for someone. Unfortunately, his funds ran out as he had to take a trip to India... got an "Adventure Shirt" for that journey.

I will be doing a shirt and set of collars for a Lounger in the very near future, but they won't be round tipped, unfortunately. I would love to do one just like Young Indy's (I've got a great striped material which would work perfectly for the shirts body). Drop me a line for more details...

Kind regards,
Indy

Something like this? I think I have an idea where contrast collar (and later, cuff) shirts came from.

 

[Indy Magnoli]

That's the shirt! I've always wanted to replicate that entire outfit. I love how the jacket, vest and pants are all different colors and patterns... yet still match!

Kind regards,
Indy

 

[Jovan]

Indeed. I really like the costuming of the series.